Brockas

Who's you're tuner? There's only 1 person in WA with the patience to tune Wolf, everyone else will tell you to ditch the ECU and buy a Power-FC. PICK YOUR TUNER FIRST, then buy the ECU he recommends. Not the other way around.

Albeit with some detonation marks on his forged pistons....

If your tuner thinks your injectors will handle the boost he will run, then why bother asking people on here? If you don't trust your tuner, find another one.

I've read this, but is the pre-load applied electronically or mechanically? I have an R32 gearbox/transfer case in an R33 GT-R. Does this mean that the transfer case still has a pre-load applied to it by the ATTESSA computer, or is there no pre-load because its an R32 transfer case?

Cheers Simmo. Marbles, Sean's tuning it as it's heading to All-Star from Volatile (it's not far away) to finish off the conversion. Will get it run up on X-Speed dyno tho to see the difference between yours and mine.

Hey Andrew, The car is a circuit car, and as such I'm aiming for the most response possible while maintaining roughly 400wkw. The 4088r appears too lazy, and I am yet to see a graph of the 3788r. Instead, I've customised a 3582r with a T04 0.82 rear housing (V-band + T4 flange). We will see how it progresses, it is booked in for a tune on the 14th.

I've done a search, and read several threads, but unfortunately they all turn into a single vs twins debate. Luckily, I dislike twins, so there is no need for a debate, I wont be using them Can anyone tell me which water line to use for the single conversion on a 26? The front or the rear? And I'm using a Garrett GT3582, and I have a JUN oil pump, will I need a restrictor of some sort to stop the oil blowing past the seals?? Cheers Paul.

Wasn't supposed to come across as having a go, was just curious to see what figures people have seen on the dyno. 650rwhp is a nice figure, but I've never seen 700's do that before (personally, not saying it isn't possible). At 403wkw we were at 97% duty, so basically maxxed, but will be pushing the fuel pressure up a bit more this time, think the single nismo pump was letting it down.

Can anyone give actual figures for injectors they've used instead of just theoretical estimates? I will be pushing the limits of 700cc injectors very shortly. So far they've done 403wkw with standard fuel pressure on 98 ron.

5 pages, and not one person has mentioned valve guides?? I've seen 2 "built" motors destroyed because people skimped on guides. For the sake of $500 it's not something I'd suggest leaving out of a build. HOORAH! You're not the only person/builder who thinks this, don't worry.

Do you have a graph to compare boost response? Sounds like it makes the car a lot less linear. ps. I have a spare 1.06 rear for a GT35 if anyone wants it cheap....

Why are people trying to compare the Ku36 to RE55's/A050's/R888's ??? Nothing I've seen suggests the Ku36 is a semi-slick. From memory the treadwear rating on the Ku36 is about 180, compared to the usual semi-slick of 80-120. They seem to be a decent road tyre, but thats about it. I think the Kumho marketing team is getting a little ahead of themselves in terms of promotion...

We have a ~40cm extension for this job. Knuckle on the end, drop the tailshaft and gearbox crossmember, tilt the box down, and get the extention in there.

As per title, I don't like any of the side skirts I've seen available for R33's. IMO they all look too over-the-top, but without side skirts 33 GTR's look like snow ploughs. So, is there any way to fit 34 GTR side skirts to a 33 GTR? Can it be done? Are they roughly the same dimensions? Here's what I'm talking about.... How my car looks now: And here's how I want it to look: Will also have a series 3 front lip on it soon.

Hey John, I will look into it, although it was my impression that with the quicker ATTESSA systems in the 33 the controllers were less effective than when their implemented in 32's. I may be wrong though Excellent, that is the best advice I've been given, thanks!! I don't mind forking out more for gear later on, so I might do the Ikeya arms + rear camber arms + solid sway bars for now, then do bilstein shocks and eibach springs later, as I already have coilovers. Cheers mate, I know Brad, and also Brett from Wilkinsons, but was just chasing some real-world advice from people with GTR's who have tracked them on here. That way I can suggest a setup to one of them, then they can fine adjust it later if it's not perfect.

Much better, cheers dude! Pity about SK, his advice was invaluable.

Thanks for your input.

I don't see what's so bad? I use an unsprung triple plate OS Giken clutch and don't have any issues with driveability. It's really not bad at all.

I was going to send SydneyKid a PM, but unfortunately his inbox is full, so I'll ask this on the open forum. I understand he suggests the group buy kits for R33 GTR's (http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R33-Gtr-Bilstein-and-Whitel-t87826.html). These seem to be geared towards road cars which occasionally see the track. I can't seem to find what would be recommended for a 100% track-only R33 GTR (such as mine). The car is only used for time-attack events, club sprints, and tarmac rally's here in WA. If this has been covered before please the link, as I've done a search but come up with nada. Currently the car has Tein Super Street coil-overs, and that is all. I run either Bridgestone RE55 SR2's, or currently considering the Advan A050's, and Alcon front calipers with 355mm floating discs. What settings/parts would you suggest? Currently the car turns in quite well, but oversteers horribly at both turn-in and exit, and also suffers mid-corner understeer. I have a budget of roughly $2500. I am currently considering Lower Control Arms for the front, as I don't want to adjust camber by 'tucking' the top of the rim in, would rather push the bottom out and increase track at the same time. The IKEYA Formula bars seem to be the only ones which do this at the moment, does anyone know of another brand? Will also look into castor rods for the front. What can I do to increase rear traction and prevent the back from coming out? Upper control arms for the rear? Bit more negative camber? As per SK's suggestions, I have a ride height of 365mm front, and 355mm rear. Any advice would be much appreciated. Cheers

Applecross ey. Done a shoot there before as well. Not a bad spot.

Try increasing your f-stop a couple of steps and give it another shot. Also, shoot in RAW mode, then convert in Photoshop with CameraRAW later, will be much more crisp. Here's one from the SAU display at the F1 on the weekend:

Cheers mate

What exactly do you base this on? The AFR's may be in the 13's, but what is the ignition advance? This is what I would be far more concerned about. There seem to be plenty of keyboard tuners around who are obsessed with AFR's. Does it knock? Does the engine warning light flash? If not, the tune is probably safe enough. Get it checked anyway by someone you trust. Don't rely on anything said to you on an internet forum about your tune, as most people dont have a clue.

you built an rb20?

I'm pretty sure the OP knows about that thread, as he's the one who created it.