As per title, I have a GT35R with a .7 front and 1.06 rear for sale. Externally gated.
$1300.
Already cheap.
Located in WA but will ship at buyers expense.
Here are some pics for those of you who haven't seen a GT35R before:
Basically I'm ordering a new front bar for my 33 GTR, but I'm chasing the series 3 front bar and splitter (as the price difference isn't all that much).
What I need to order it though is a chassis and model number.
Can anyone with a Series 3 (97+) 33 GTR help me out and post up your Chassis Number and Model number off your silver plate on your firewall?
For example, mine is:
Chassis - BCNR33-000921
Model - GGJPRQFR33ZDAGJ---
Cheers
Hey, can you just double check this one for me please
6U900BCNR33000921
obviously a pretty early-model 33 GTR, but more interested in specifics, is it a v-spec?
Cheers
wtf?
if you're transplanting an entire GTR driveline into a gtst you may as well just buy a GTR as it will be cheaper.
If you do go AWD in a 32, you can always just install a switch to disconnect the atessa fuse and it will go RWD.
X-speed = Ant Scali.
Should be a damn good tune.
Km/h to rpm for a GTR running std diffs and gearbox:
86 3000
115 4000
135 5000
162 6000
178 7000
210 8000
Running a 9 with a 0.86 GT35R in a 1500+kg car (GTR) ?
I've bought a GT35R, but even I find that pretty hard to believe.
I would have thought a high-10 was a stretch in a street GTR.
Someone get me the dyno graphs of a T04Z running 20+psi on a 2.6L with no headwork, and 35R running 20+psi on a 2.6L with no headwork.
Its not as easy as you think, hence why I used Nik's and Cerbera's graphs, closest compo I could find, but still FAR from perfect.
Ok I've posted this on gtr.co.uk as well, but does anyone know where I can find a T4 split pulse 0.86 rear housing for a GT35??
I don't really care where I have to get it in from.
From all the research I can find, this should be the best compromise between top end and response.
hah not at all champ, besides, at least I still have my GT-R.
The GT35 is physically a smaller turbo. It will spool quicker than a T04Z, unless the fabled Z somehow defies the laws of physics. Considering my car is primarily driven on the track, that's exactly what I need.
I've seen quite a few, including my own car, which have shown almost exactly a 5% difference between the Hubber at All-Star and the roller at X-Speed.
By no means am I suggesting this is 100% accurate, but its a decent indication, and all it is is two dyno charts plotted on the same graph.
It's Cerberas graph.
I used that one instead of Natallottos because Cerbera has no head porting, and just mild 270 degree cams.
The 35R has been scaled 5% to take into account its on a hubber.
It's the closest thing I could get to a fair comparisson between the two, and subsequently, I've just purchased a 35R.