DVS JEZ

Or if the cam has never been out than check thencam belt Hasnt slipped causing the exhaust valves to contact pistons then snapping the cam. Couldnt u hear the engine had no compression when cranking?

What cr are u after? It all depends on wht fuel u are using and what the engine is being built for? Street circuit drag etx

Sid dont get too worried about the pfc knock, it doesnt mean the motor is dead at all, get yavuz to have a play with it or come for a drive to the central coast and ill go for a run with you on the freeway and fix it up for you, 5th gear is very high load on the engine thats why it knocks in that gear only, you wouldbe better off tuning it with NO octane booster at all, so run the tank 2 or 3 times with no booster and change the plugs before you get your touch up tune. a pfc knock of 50 and above is normally close to real knock, but this depends on the condition of the knock sensors.

not too bad, depending if the engine was warm or cold, a leak down test would have been better, is the missfire there all the time or is it only on boost

so the fuel pump is priming but there is no fuel coming out after the fuel filter ? the pump is either dead or the filter is blocked, also check the quality of the fuel in a clear container

A pressure test doesnt rule out headgasket straight away. There is more combustion pressure than water pressure therefor exhaust gas and cylinder pressure can still be leaking into the cooling system.

any pics or vids of the track?

get a wideband onto it, might have a lean spot( a hole in the fuel map) at that temp

get a test light and check the wiring at the back of the barrel to make sure the starter wire is getting power everytime you turn the key to start,

your right saying the realy might not click but if the switch is faulty then the relay doesnt get energised so it wont click. try a new relay 1st, swap it with one of the other ones from the car.

when does it do it exactly? does it do it at any throttle position or? what ecu?

What afr is the car running at full noise? Should try richening it up a tad to help with cooling

Duncan ur car is fast as.

Soo so far its been a mixture of issues, Fried ecu , timing incorrect( was it cas timing or cam timing?) A blown rear turbo? Which unfortunately will more then likely mean ceramic dust has entered the cylinders. But hopefully not. Have u got the turbos off yet? What turbos are u going to refit?

Awesome. Get some footage

Glad u got it sorted.

Did u turn it over by hand before starting? How long did it run before it stopped? Did u have the cas bolted onto the timing cover or did u start it with it bolted straight to the holder without the timing cover

Try a mechanical gauge tester. Make sure there is oil pressure.

Looks stock

The oil sprayed onto the belts causing them to slip off. Let us know what they do about ur engine. Had a great day today. Few bingles at the end of the day unfortunately. No body hurt luckily. Time for me to get some decent tyres on the front to get rid of the oversteer and hopefully my wilwood brakes turn up this week. My brakes were a big let down.

They have ceramic rear turbines which break all too often

Almost time to leave

Rb blocks have a tendency of cracking with high hp applications. Some builders grout fill the lower half of the block for circuit engines and full grout fill for drag as no cooling is necessary due to running methanol.

Check all the throttle linkages too. One might be open more than the others

Stock motors make that safely with stock turbos(with steel wheels)