Chris Rogers

that looks like a later car. the panel and correct contrls are roughly $1k. last set I sold was about that and those went to a customer in canberra. wht you have is a metra kit. are the controls slow to respond?

nice find!

it will but I can get it locally in a day. - same item.

my bad they changed the site http://www.caraudiomasters.com.au/ try that and find a dealer in your area. there are better than jaycar.. to be honest find a rainbow dealer and listen to them as well www.mobilefidelity.com.au for a list of dealers.

because I put it there! cams aren't modded - the top comment was in jest of nissan having a whinge about the warranty of these things. as for tricks of trade. call me mean, but I spent 12hrs under this car and for now the info is not going to be public knowlegede.

you have PM.

try a CAM dealer for hertz . www.cam.com.au see DLS for teh sound of hertz.

yep!

gibbo, when ?

find out who rick damelian use for their exotic repairs. once you have contacted them and recovered from fainting, go see them.

meh: (update) http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Re...ra-t265086.html

OOPS!!! nissan's not going to like me - I modified one *just* a little bit. one red GTR (this is a MLB car and the owner's permission has been sought. I was flown down to do this car) Stock System as it was set up by the owner Navigation - local style . Forget reworking the OEM system - its entirely different to the 370Z. I have proved that already. USDM is the same idea. second image is the inbuilt computer Rear Camera there is a front one as well tied to this. Camera Locations: Rear camera. you cannot see it but it can definitely see 1 meter back behind the car Front Camera. visible from literal head on but not visible otherwise. only image missing is the ipod unit and we did that as well. A WARNING TO ALL WHO TINKER AND PULL THIS CAR APART! this car will know if something has been pulled out - pulling the battery will not help- it will set flags. as it is I have to update my scan tool. this car had to go to nissan for a reset after all of this. for me it will not be a problem in the future. want it done : Melbourne Stylyn Car Audio - Boronia 03-9739-8866 - Adam www.stylyn.com Brisbane Audio Express 07-3256-7741 0407-102-839 - Chris www.audioexpress.com.au now who's game ?

drive it around then,save some money and fix it. thats easily a $1000 worth of ding if you do not have to replce teh panel . it almost looks like it was backed into twice at that height.

thats mainly cosmetic. I would be looking at the headlight mount and a new guard myself. having said that its not torn and I dare say any decent panel shop could hammer it back out and straight. got insurance?

$70 in bits and a lower dash strip to fit it. whilst you are there I'd suggest putting in an ipod lead as well. (I sell those too.) as for being a buddha on M35s - not really I work on a lot of grey market stuff and a LOT of skylines/stageas so I know a fair bit about them. this is my approach. (sledgehammer ) http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fm...on-t249573.html

not sure what version that is but I did a VERY similar car to that one in Mlb over the weekend. cloth interior and plain as. did a full rework on the navi/audio system. no leather and lack of a bose stereo to me would put it at that price. moderate use as well when you think about it. everyone dreams of a 20-30km car and that would reflect on price. never mind the fact it takes 4 10mm bolts to fix that issue..

drive it with raw video and a sync combiner. you can probably get better. sync freq = 60hz. could push the envelope on it and try 70 but I have a feeling it will stat complaning. this should do the trick to get CSYNC out of your PC. http://www.tkk.fi/Misc/Electronics/circuits/vga2rgbs.html then drive the video side of things as normal. google is your friend for the display pinouts use a 74HC4053 to do the rest. I know its sort of cryptic but I'm not going to disclose my tricks

pm pics pls. linky broke and she's cute..

find the user MILLOS on here. he had one doen by me yesterday. same setup that will go into yours. in short its a driveby wire unit spec'd by me to work with these cars. it uses the OEM V35 buttons to get the controls onthe wheel and from there looks stock. feel wise you wont notice it kick in and it works like any other cruise int hat respect. to date I haev done 30+ of them without hassle.. if you want real feedback on them pop a question up inthe V35 area for the NEW DBW version of cruise that I do. the last one I did was VAC based and worked well but took too much stuffing around to fit properly. as i said I'm heading down that way debug a car in blacktown so Ican do yours then in fact I can probably do it onthe back half of that day if youare keen.

working on it - I'm probaly the best person to ask this question anyway. the cheap way out is a band expander the correct way out is what I'm doing - recalibrating the thing!

in all honesty I'm coming dwon to sydney in just over a week anyway. did you want me to bring one down and fit it for you.

easy. fly me down hand $900 + plane ticekt and you'll have OEM style cruise that DOES NOT surge. the mule car I did finalised the cruise cal for my unit and it works a treat. you didn't mention where you were but if its in a major city there's a good chance I can send you to a shop and get it fitted. stuff getting a OEM car with it - waste of money when you have a car already that runs fine.

there's a few otehrs worthwhile. the viper product is not all its cracked up to be as its only one point of kill. the ebay ones (which I'm asssuming danny is referring to.) are not going to have local service or support from dealers here. DEI have already put the screws on that. in short autowatch mongoose cyclops rhino all make decent Oz stds alarms. I prefer the autowatch ones due to unit size.

unsure. never tried to pop raw VGA video into the one have here. must try that when I get a sec.

for the coupe there is a red tag in the middle of the lower seat back - pull that from the inside and the seats drop. its usually tucked away. sedans - never tried.