SMOKEYV35

Hey guys, I have been planning my stereo upgrade, but have had a change in direction (going to go all in and throw out the entire Bose system instead of trying to work around it). Unfortunately, this decision happened after I purchased a few things which I no longer need. ITEM: JL Audio 500/1 V1 Class D Mono Amp PRICE: $250 CONDITION: Used DESC: It's a couple of years old. No scratches, just a bit dusty. Rated at 500WRMS @ 4ohm - it's currently driving a 250WRMS Sub, so it has had a very easy life. This is a top quality amp - only selling as I've bought a 5Ch amp so I can one run one amp to power my whole system and hide everything under the carpet in the boot. INFO: http://www.sonicelec...udio-500-1.html ITEM: Infinity Kappa 60.9CS PRICE: $210+postage DESC: I was planning using these in my rear doors, but have since found they don't fit (too deep). . The Infinity speakers can be run off a headunit with good results due to their efficiency (sensitivity rating of 93dB which no speakers in this price range can match). But they will also take 90WRMS, meaning if you want to amp them down the track, they will be up to the task. They're a highly underrated speaker - see review below...... COMPARISON REVIEW: http://caraudionow.c...t-car-speakers/ CONDITION: Brand new in unopened box. LINK:http://www.crutchfie...ppa-60-9cs.html ITEM: PAC ROEM NIS2 PRICE: $45+postage DESC: Fits most Nissans (200sx, 350Z etc - see link for compatability) This is a must have for anyone who is planning on using an aftermarket head unit. When you change the head unit, you lose the digital signal that the Bose system runs off, resulting in a large loss in sound quality. This is a simple plug n play that goes into the Bose harness on one side, and into your head unit harness on the other end. With head units so cheap at the moment, it's the perfect time to upgrade. CONDITION: Brand new in unopened box. LINK & More INFO : http://www.pac-audio...x?ProductId=811 Pickup is avail in Melbourne CBD or buyer pays postage. (Prefer not to post amp - it's heavy and fragile but it's your call.)

Throw me an offer guys. These will sh1t all over your Bose speakers. Selling because I've purchased some Focals for my front stage (don't tell my missus) Also have this for sale: ITEM: JL Audio 500/1 V1 Class D Mono Amp PRICE: $250 CONDITION: Used DESC: It's a couple of years old. No scratches, just a bit dusty. Rated at 500WRMS @ 4ohm - it's currently driving a 250WRMS Sub, so it has had a very easy life. This is a top quality amp - only selling as I've bought a 5Ch amp so I can one run one amp to power my whole system and hide everything under the carpet in the boot. Can hear it running. INFO: http://www.sonicelec...udio-500-1.html

they also look to be strictly coilovers - as opposed to the rears being a strut and seperate spring setup. Good for easy install and adjustment.

groan. righto - so 2 x 2.5 inch pipes will be 8.86 square inches vs one 3 inch pipe which has a pipe area of 6.49 square inches - so even though i'm not a maths geek - the theory is sound. http://www.exhaustvi...-pipe-diameter/ (the above calculations have taken into account the gauge of steel used in the piping so use I/D measurements)

i think the 2 hi flow cats will flow better than a single larger diameter cat. If you think about it, 2x2.5 is 5" of area - where as a single 3" is.....3" of area. Also - the exhausts hang very low to begin with. A center mounted cat after the Y-pipe would punish your ground clearance significantly.

agreed with Tony...'what he says is correct'. I'd just say to him 'look, I want to buy X and it's a fair bit of money so I'm looking around for the best price. I've found a place that sells X for this amount - which for whatever reasons is a bit less than what you can sell me X for. You're welcome to charge people whatever price you think is fair and i'm not telling you how to run a business, but is there anything you can do to get the price closer - I'd rather give my business to you. What do you think?' (always end with a question - it forces a response lol). At the end of the day - he is a service and product provider, and you're a customer - regardless of how friendly the conversations are during the transaction. If you don't feel comfortable doing that, just buy the tyres elsewhere. Think of it as supporting the community rather than supporting a single business. Spread the wealth! (PS. It's funny you mention keeping him supplied with beer. I've started using a mechanic close to my work, and I like the way he operates - it is the first time in all my years of car ownership that I've used a mechanic - I've always done it myself but I'm just too busy these days. Naturally I was very skeptical at first, but this guy is very friendly, straight down the middle, and I can tell he knows that i know a couple of things so he doesn't try and piss in my pocket. After he went out of his way to help me out recently, I dropped a carton of beer off at his shop at 3pm on a particularly hot Friday arvo. You'd think I just gave him a novelty cheque for a million bucks. He said to me 'mate, it's nice to be thanked once in a while - all my job is day after day is people yelling at me for this and that. It's nice to get something positive'. You'd be surprised how the little things go a long way. I guarantee that $40 slab will pay for itself over and over again.)

They are the same mounts but 350z runs shorter shocks and springs. But I guess it's irrelevant, because you're measuring the alignment by the wheels. I can see what you're saying though. I'd still just align based on factory coupe specs. If there is any difference between specs for 35 and 350 it would be as a result of an engineers hard work. I'd just go with it. But any suspension tuner worth his salt should be able to dial in a car regardless of factory specs. Let us know how you get on.

Nup. The geometry is dictated by the mounting points - shorter springs just move the wheels into a static position that is further along in the intended arc of movement. The v35 is very sensitive to changes from stock. They seem to camber dramatically as soon as you introduce even the smallest amount of drop - and the stock camber adjustments can't really counter it. I'm on tein h tech which is like a 15mm drop. I'll post a pic of my front camber on stock arms - destroyed a set of tyres in under 10,000km. Just get him to dial it as close as he can to stock specs, it will probably max the adjustment, but it's your best bet for tyre longevity.

just because you've got 350z springs in doesn't mean your car has become a 350z. Nor is it a g35 sedan. you should be setting your alignments up as close to sedan factory coupe specs as possible. WHEEL ALIGNMENT Year Model Caster Camber Toe-in (in.) Range (+/- Deg.) Preferred Settings (Deg.) Range (+/- Deg.) Preferred Settings (Deg.) 2003 G35 F 0.75 A 0.75 -0.50 0.04 +/- 0.04 Coupe R 0.50 -1.50 0.11 +/- 0.11 http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairguides/Infiniti-Car-1998-05/Wheel-Alignment/Wheel-Alignment-Specifications/_/P-0996b43f803810c1 you will probably find though that with the 350z springs in you won't be able to get your camber dialed in to factory specs, there won't be enough adjustment in the camber arms to dial out all the negative camber brought on by the much lower springs - so you just get as close as you can, and if you start chewing out inner edges then look at adjstable camber arms. Note: the above specs are for a USDM Infiniti - but the only difference would be if the specified a different caster between the two sides to create natural pull off the road, but they appear to be even so you should be sweet.

No offense taken - but the windscreen didn't have a single chip in it, and when i asked the guy to explain to me the laws about what constituted sand blasting he tried to feed me some B/S about 'dots per square cm' - while the next guy told me it was entirely up to the discretion of the tester as to whether it impaired vision or not (which he subsequently then passed the screen). My tyres were 2mm above the wear indicators, which apparantly is no longer a pass - begs the question what the wear indicators are for in the first place - but so be it - 4 new Pirellis for the new owner. And as for the mud flaps, i offered to rip them off then and there if it meant passing the car - to which i was told 'no, they are part of the car, the car was designed to have these fitted, they can't be removed'. Turned out the previous owner had fitted an incorrect profile tyre, so I put the correct size on and 'boom' - car was legal. But seriously - 5mm too low? My point being that a lot of the grey area rules are now being defaulted to the strictest interpretation of the law due to the higher visibility on the testing process.

what a conundrum. I think your best option is going to be labour intensive, but it's also going to do the least amount of permenant damage - and that would be to remove the seat so you have some room to move, take off the B-pillar trim so you can try expose an edge on the door card and try pry it up enough from the rear edge so that you can pop it off - at least enough so that you can access the cable with a pair of pliers - then just pull on the cable to pop the door. don't forget to disconnect the battery before you do this so that you don't upset the airbag in the seat.

oh don't get me wrong - the good ol days I was getting cars that were clearly unroadworthy signed off. I even had one of the ol' 'money in the envelope with your rego and VIN' and they posted a RWC back to me. But they're trying to clamp down on that - there are about 1/4 of the rwc testing licenses in operation now, and the guys who hold them don't want to risk lose them. everything has to be photographed and documented and uploaded to vic roads database......there are just no loop holes to let things slide anymore. However back to OP - make sure you let them know that you own the car, and don't intend to sell it. They will be much more leninet if they know the car is staying in your posession because there is less risk of recourse against them.

Unfortunately, since the new regulations came in September last year, RWC's are very very hard to get. I had a nightmare of a time trying to get one on my MPS a few months ago. They pinged it for 5mm too low (measuring at the mud bottom of the mud flap!), sand blasted windscreen (on a 3yr old car), four tyres, missing rear wiper.....etc etc. I took it around to a few places with the work order in hand, and they basically all said they can't let those things slide. Had to get all the work done, and then go for another run at RWC. It's a hassle. Now you have learnt why you don't let your rego lapse! What sort of things are they picking it up for?

Thanks. Which is what the PAC ROEM NIS2 is. All you need to know is that if you want to run aftermarket head unit with your Bose speakers and amp - you need this. Will also have a JL Audio 500/w Slash V1 series amp for sale soon too.

Hey guys, I have been planning my stereo upgrade, but have had a change in direction (going to go all in and throw out the entire Bose system instead of trying to work around it). Unfortunately, this decision happened after I purchased a few things which I no longer need. ITEM: Infinity Kappa 60.9CS PRICE: $210+postage DESC: I was planning using these in my rear doors, but have since found they don't fit (too deep). However, they are a good upgrade for those who want to do their front speakers, and they are one of the ONLY speakers that are a direct drop in replacement for Bose speakers as they are a rare 2 ohm impedence (same as factory). If you use a 4 ohm speaker on the Bose system, they will be very inefficient and lose a lot of volume. The Infinity speakers can be run off the OEM Bose amp with good results due to their efficiency (sensitivity rating of 93dB which no speakers in this price range can match). But they will also take 90WRMS, meaning if you want to amp them down the track, they will be up to the task. COMPARISON REVIEW: http://caraudionow.c...t-car-speakers/ CONDITION: Brand new in unopened box. Waiting for them to arrive - will be sold on immediately. LINK:http://www.crutchfie...ppa-60-9cs.html ITEM: PAC ROEM NIS2 PRICE: $45+postage DESC: This is a must have for anyone who is planning on using an aftermarket head unit. When you change the head unit, you lose the digital signal that the Bose system runs off, resulting in a large loss in sound quality. This is a simple plug n play that goes into the Bose harness on one side, and into your head unit harness on the other end. With head units so cheap at the moment, it's the perfect time to upgrade. CONDITION: Brand new in unopened box. Waiting for it to arrive - will be sold on immediately. LINK & More INFO : http://www.pac-audio...x?ProductId=811 Pickup is avail in Melbourne CBD, OR BUY BOTH for $250 and I'll pay the postage.

Yeah fair point Ditto - like me for example - I want 20's for the look, and I don't care about ragged edge handling - I'll take a quiet, capable and durable tyre over a fast wearing soft compound tyre that sticks like you know what. What do you want to achieve and what's your budget? Answer this question and we might be able to help you in the right direciton sooner. For example, as has been said, you might be better off putting the money in suspension instead of throwing out a set of tyres, using up the tyres you've got in the mean time and replacing them when the time comes with something better.

No wuckas.

FYI - Pirelli Pzero Nero's are on sale at Ozzy Tyres until midday today - only $311 each. Free shipping included http://www.ozzytyres...yre_diameter=32 EDIT: don't buy the 'M&S' they have extra cuts for mud and snow that you shouldnt need.

Hey, my comments aren't gospel - just what i've 'learnt'. Your experiences and input is good though. But remember this guy is asking for tyre for a 20" tyre - and given that a pirelli pzero in those sizes runs to around $650 EACH - my recommendations were kinda relevant to an assumed budget. If you've got the money - go for p-zeros - hell, if you've got the money you'd be going michelin pilot sport 3's - arguably a better tyre again.

I will have one soon - just bought some aftermarket speakers. Tyler (mayo_85) wants one too so ill split them between the two of you. Are you happy to wait a couple of weekends though?

I'm going a 285/30/20 on a 10" rim. Previously had 275/35/19 on a 10.5" but at those specs there was zero rim protection from gutters. I like to play it safe, so going a little wider.

I'm pricing and researching tyres for my 20's at the moment. I'll be making a decision based on price and noise as this car is a daily driver and rarely pushed hard (if it was I wouldn't be going 20's lol). I'll list what I've learnt Federal 595 EVO - $215 each - more performance oriented. Federal has a good rep for their 595 SS and I'd expect these to also be a nice grippy bang for your buck tyre. Only downside is the sidewall pattern designed by an 8 year old - has flames all over it WTF!? Kumho Ku19 - $240 each - good every day tyre, low rolling noise, grip OK - silica compound reportedly gets very noisy late in life. I've had these in 19's - not a bad tyre. Looks a bit boring. Kumho Ku31 - $260 each - more performance oriented. pretty good grip for spirited driving. Had these, also in 19" on my Stagea. Could hit '3rd exit' roundabouts at speeds the Ku19's wlould scramble about on, but had to replace due to sidewall bubbles.Not a bad looking tyre. Falken F452 - $260 each - similar to the Ku31. Performance oriented tyre. Have not driven on them but decent reviews out of the states. Also have an extra stiff sidewall that stretches nicely with a lip protector - good for those of us who D/D on silly low profile tyres. I think I'll be giving these a go personally. Nitto INVO - $350 each - these are what are currently fitted to my 20's - I have not driven on them yet, but they are clearly a high performance tyre based on their brand/tread pattern and wear rating. I think they're an awesome looking tyre and would take a car with much more power than the V35 to break their grip. I'd imagine the agressive tread pattery would also chop a fair bit of air and be very noisy on the road. If you want to leave yourself with no doubts, I'd go for these. Unfortunately, a bit too exxy for my needs. After that your options become exponentially more expensive, and i pretty much stopped researching at that point! But if you're used to Achilles ATR's - any of the tyres listed above will be a vast improvement. I had Achilles on my BMW in 245/19 fronts and 285/19 rears and although that car didn't have enough power to break traction (don't think I ever tried TBH lol) what I can tell you is that they were utter shite in the wet and would send my ABS wild when pulling up to a set of lights carrying any sort of speed. It was at that point that i promised myself 'NEVER AGAIN'!

received my Pioneer P8450BT head unit last night. Have bought all the crap I need to get it to work in the V35 like the steering wheel interface, the bose adapter loom etc.....but i'm thinking I might do away with the Bose all together and just run new speakers off an amp. Has anyone done the same? Better for it? I have a 10" Jl Audio sub running off a JL Slash series amp and it just booms over the top of the Bose speakers - I can get the level right at some volumes, but the stereo up and it gets much louder than the speakers - it's all out of balance. I haven't played with the gains our frequencies yet - but I'm sure it's out of whack.

Didn't like the pi55y japanese horn so I pushed through my NYD hangover and installed a Stebel Nautilus air horn. 144dB of 'get outta my way!!!' muhahah.

Been busy. Holidays are great! Snow foam wash, clay bar, full detail with optima products and then opti-sealed the paint. Used Dr Colorchip to touch up a couple of stone chips on the front bar - this stuff is amazing - cannot find a single stone chip now. Lamin-x sealed the front bar - basically a 3mm invisible laminate cover that blocks rocks from chipping. Debadged the rear. Gloss black vinyl wrapped the roof. And tomorrow, steam cleaning the interior.