SMOKEYV35

get yourself some of these suckers then this is what i'm installing

Got the confirmation that my rims are on the water as of today - woOT1!

Nice - thanks for reporting back. Camber was always going to be an issue on the stock arms. Unfortunately the solutions aren't really cheap - adjustable arms will cost you about the same as a decent set of tyres - so I guess you got to decide how long you want to keep the car. Will take you 2 years to recoup the costs probably. FYI - here is the camber on mine sitting on Tein H-Tech and stock arms. As you can see, it's pretty hectic.....

Can you tie the symptoms to temperature conditions? Like hot weather? The reason I say this is you say it does it after warming up it could be heat related - coil packs tend to play up in hot weather and once warm, but rarely cold - due to the plastic houses expending and allow the spark to arc out on the engine. if all else fails - reset ECU and take it for a lash. Even if it doesn't fix it, it'll make you feel better !

No worries - I am sure you'll be fine. Besides, you don't really have an alternative in the short term anyway - and if the globe blows you'll be back to buying a new kit anyway.

if it works you will be sweet. HID's often make a noise, I wouldnt worry about it. The error canceller is just a big resistor at the end of the day. For a replacement, if you want to do it on the cheap, just pick anything off eBay - i'm sure they're all same-factory-different-door anyway. Like i said, i've run $40 cheapies before with no ill effect. With the cheap ones though, you will find that they have longer startup times, the colours can be different between the two globes due to low quality control of salts in the globes, and they'll start to lose output and colour (get bluer, then purple) before probably crapping out in 18months time. But if that's cool with you, then I wouldn't advise against it. Just stick to 5000k or below. Anything higher you lose light output significantly, and with lower quality kits thats probably going to emphasise the loss. If you want to spend a little more, bang for your buck I'd recommend the Morimoto Digital kit from theretrofitsoure.com - they're quality digital ballasts (nice and compact) and quality output globes. Go for a 4300k (OEM colour white/yellow) or a 5000k (white/blue tinge). They will give you excellent light output and last much longer.

Colin, that sounds like dirty MAF problems. Look for a DIY on cleaning the MAF. Grab a can of throttle body cleaner and have at it. I did mine on the weekend, no noticeable difference - although I wasn't having probs in the first place - but a clean MAF is a must for accurate fuel metering and fuel efficiency.

That's a CAN BUS error cancelling unit. CAN BUS is a communication system between multiple electrical sub-systems. It is commonly found on lots of European cars and ours too. In this instance, when you install aftermarket HID's it freaks out the CAN BUS into thinking you have a blown bulb and you get a 'light out' error. So they install these inline and it 'convinces the CANBUS that everything is fine - as it is. You can buy replacements like this: http://www.hidlighti..._De-Coders.html But given it's probably a cheap kit to start with, you'd probably better off just buying a new kit for as much as you want to spend (i've run $40 kits in fog lights on another car before with no ill effect) and you'll have new components because odds are if this one fails, the other won't be far behind.

you guys should try the 'fuel lite' app on iPhone. just punch in your odometer, litres you put in at the station, and price per litre and it will collate all the details into a running average complete with detailed graphs showing consumption. Also good come tax time.

There are wide reports of these lights being very poor. There was even talk of a class action because so many were failing on G35's. Often however, it is due to the connection in the boot becoming corroded. So maybe track that down first and check it's got a good contact. Will be a hell of a lot easier ;-)

did some electrical work on the weekend - always so time consuming because I've learnt the hard way over the years that taking shortcuts and rushing the job will always cause headaches down the track. So i spent two days installing my reverse camera, and installing the amp. See pics below: 1. Alpine PDX-V9 - this is a 5ch amp that will run my entire system. It has 4x100wrms and 1x500wrms but birth sheet shows a fair bit higher numbers. It should pack a punch. But not only that, it's smaller and about half the weight of the mono block it replaces. I love it. I mounted it under the floor for a clean stealthy install. Took the TV tuner and mounted it where the Bose amp used to be, and put the Alpine where the TV Tuner used to be. Used all stock brackets, no cutting or drilling - so 100% reversible (the best kind of mod). 2. Even though it's a digital amp and runs a lot cooler than a traditional A/B amp - it's still a very enclosed location. Decided to install a little 12V computer cooling fan to extract heat from that compartment into the spare wheel cavity. It's hooked up to the remote wire so it comes on whenever the amp is on. Had to cut a hole in the plastic trim - but I reckon it looks pretty sweet and functional. 3. All hidden away from prying eyes and protected from flying boot fodder. . Maximum boot space. That's a win in my books! (ignore spider grill thing - came with the car, and ironic because i'm hyper arachnophobic - that will be going once i decide on a new sub).

powdercoat (approx $100 per rim), paint yourself (maybe $100 in materials and a weekend), or even cheaper/easier would be to plastidip the (probably need 6 cans - so $160 in materials) If you're not up with Plastidip, it's a rubberised paint that you spray on and it sets as a bonded layer over your rims (in this case) - but they beauty is you can just peel it off if you don't like it after a while! http://www.plastidip.net.au So depending on your choise, that's approx $200 to bring your rims up to scratch which leaves uou $800 for tyres which will get you some pretty nice tyres in 17 inch size. Something like these would be nice: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-X-New-235-45-17-BRIDGESTONE-POTENZA-ADRENLIN-RE002-TYRES-/290841551679?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43b781e33f or for something a bit more agressive, could give the nitto's a go (don't expect them to last forever though, treadwear is something like 200 - meaning they're sticky, but soft) http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-X-New-235-45-17-NITTO-INVO-PERFORMANCE-TYRES-HOLDEN-FORD-NISSAN-GTR-MERCEDES-/230909264927?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35c343c41f

I'd remove my spoiler and weld up the holes - but there is plenty more on the list to tackle before i worry about that. But agree, they definitely look better without.

Both pics look same to me. But you're paying a panel shop to do that - it would be easier and cheaper for them to remove spoiler, weld up holes and respray. Then you get what you actually wanted in the first place.

sigh. I still don't understand the point of your question - but i'll answer it anyway. ok - stick with 18's. buy in 8 inch widths, then you can buy 245/45/18 which is what commodores run - so plenty of tyres available domestically. (incidentally this would net you pretty close to the exact same setup as the OEM 18s (18x7.5 18x8).) So why don't you snag a set of OEM's - get them powdercoated black or gunmetal grey - throw some stick rubber on them and you'll have a tidy setup for under $1500. OEM wheels pretty much cannot be beat. They're cheap, they're easy to come by, and they're strong as all hell. They fit without fouling anything, they're legal under all insurance policies, and the car was designed to work with them.

i still think the best streest sleeper is the MX83 Cressida They're getting a bit 'done to death' - but you can't be the combination of a built 1.5JZ single turbo with a stout A340 transmission behind it, R33 front brakes, coilovers, MA70 supra LSD, sticky tyres on stock rims - all underneath a brown/beige metallic paint, white venetians, doyleys on the cream leather recliner seats and a 'I <3 BOWLS' sticker on the rear window. They're the penultimate grandpa car, and nobody would even think twice. I'd even run a massive network of mufflers just to make sure it was virtually silent around town........and an external gate to screamer. EDIT: just re-read this thread from back to front - seems like everyone else has the same idea. So. I concur.

this thread makes my head hurt. OP, you're approaching this from entirely the wrong angle. You choose the wheels first and then the width of those wheels dictates the width of the tyre you run. The profile you run isn't a choice, it's a mathematic result that you have to follow in order to keep your VDC and speedo in check. To say you're researching to buy wheels based on which tyre size is most readily available and well priced is a waste of time. I understand you want to buy a nice grippy tyre, but seriously, at your budget of $1000 your only option will be second hand wheels with tyres fitted, and they'll be 18's at best. My advice, save another $1k - and then make the decision between buying something new but replica like varrstoen's or rota's and then spend 800 on tyres - or buying something jap brand, second hand with used tyres (of which you'll have no choice in anyway) and then buy better tyres when you can afford it. You'll be much happier. Very rarely does a truly pleasing outcome result from compromise. And at $1000 budget, compromise is all you can afford. (don't mean to sound harsh, but seriously, 4 good 18" tyres are going to cost you close to $1000 as it is.)

I'm back on the stock 17s and they clear Brembos, by about a bee's dick. But 17s look ways to small, and 18s still look borderline IMO. These cars have big arches to fill. 19s or bust I reckon.

Does anyone know if any VIC based tuners are playing with this stuff yet?

just tell me how much you want to spend and we can help you. I've bought and sold 20+ sets of rims in my time, from 17 inch starcorp chromies to $$$ lightweight racing wheels. I've been learnt and burnt enough times to be able to help. I can tell that you don't want to keep the 20's, and spending money on upgrading the tyres now is just going to cost you more in the long run when you give up and want to replace them with a different wheel. so lets get a ball park dollar figure and start talking options.

lol wut no twennyfo's?

lol - rs88 started that thread! what are you trying to do with your car, rs88? do you want to track it and cut down lap times or do you just want a nice street car that you can tip into a corner every now and then? are looks more important to you than function? and how much you're prepared to spend. The answer to those 3 questions will hugely change the recommendation - there are so many variables beyond diameter - there is width, weight, tyre selection, and all those will be restricted by the final variable: the size of your bank account.

Have a look at this manual http://assets.sonicelectronix.com/manuals/metra/aswc.pdf Pg 9 onwards tells you how to manually program, steps 7&8 re for preset up and preset down. If that doesn't change the way your HU responds then I guess it a comparability issue.

I have purchased the Axxess SWI too - yet to receive it though. ButI have found this thread on G35driver to be invaluable http://g35driver.com/forums/audio-video-electronics/333847-wrathernauts-double-din-shopping-resource-list.html Steering Wheel Interface: - Use this PAC SWI-PS for Pioneer X920BT, Z110BT, Z120BT or Z130BT - Use the Metra Axxess ASWC for ALL others. (Instructions for installing the ASWC into a G35 can be found here

I bought the P165 V30's....planning to run a front stage only - and remove the rear speakers and 6x9s all together. http://www.focalaust...-v30-6-5-2-way/