SMOKEYV35

Incorrect. They sit 15mm lower at the front and 8mm lower at the rear. They're designed specifically to be used with stock shocks, and to give a slightly lower ride without sacrificing comfort. http://www.z1motorsports.com/350_g35/product_info.php?products_id=2968 You might be thinking of S-Techs which are lower again. As per my other thread, I dunno how people run much lower. Stupid long wheelbase Kinda getting off topic here, but if I wasn't going to be running such large/agressive wheels I would stick with these springs and just replace the tired shocks. Didn't want to take the risk of not having coilovers for the sake of adjustability and fine tuning the clearance. Incidentally, I have 350Z shocks in the rear of mine and it sits the same as the stock shocks based on photos - so I'd hazard they're the same shocks - and Nissan counters the extra weight of the V35 with taller springs - which explains why 350z springs lower the car.

Hey guys, I moved into a new rental property this week. I chose the place over others specifically because it had a big workshop/garage/carport setup behind the house and secured behind big gates. Unfortunately, the first night I came home, and learnt that my car has some clearance issues and can't get into the driveway. The driveway doesn't look that offensive, but it's just a combination of rise and falls that makes it really bad for a lower car. Imagine a slippery slide made from concrete, thats how it looks from the side. Car has to come up off the street, clear a crest before going down a ramp, into a slight drainage depression, before levelling out into the parking area. My car scrapes the exhuast and rear subframe plate on the way up - and then hits the front bar as I reach the drainage channel. Have tried all methods of angles in both forward and reverse, no go. Car is legal height, only lowered on Tein H-techs (15-20mm lower than stock). I need help trying to find a solution. I can't reconcrete, as it's not my house and I can't put a metal plate down to even out the gradient as that part of the driveway is out on the nature strip and subject to council regulations which say I can't put anything out that would obstruct the gutter or walkway. I'm really after something temporary that I can easily and quickly move under the car to get in and out. I have used wooden ramps in the past to overcome this problem at another house with another car, but those things tend to shoot out under accelration (especially when i'm reversing up hill) and move around a lot. Has anyone got any other ideas?

no worries - remind me when the time comes.as in - if i put them up for sale and don't contact you first, remind me of that. embarassingly, i am installing coilovers, but probably going to have to set them higher than the h-techs sit - which will mean practically back to stock height. moved into a new house yesterday with a massive garage and a carport - and my car can't get in the driveway!!!!! exhaust flange hits coming up off the street, and then the driveway dips down and my nismo bar hits the concrete. FML.

nevahhhhhh!

Well watch this space, depending on how my first set goes, i may be able to offer a rebuild service that will restore and retrofit your current headlights with high output modern bi-xenon projectors, quad setups, halos, leds, painted housings and shrouds.....fully customised to your choice. I've currently got 3 pairs of headlights, two sets of 03's and a set of 07-06's (muhaha) so it would be on an exchange basis (depending on the condition of your current headlights).

These aftermarket lights might look the biz but i've yet to see any output pics......?

I'll have some Tein H-Techs for sale soon?

Oi! Get back to the wasteland! LOL. Yeh you raise a fair point. But I also go through a tank of fuel a week. at $0.04c a litre difference, that equates to $170 p/a - which means i need to earn $300 before tax to pay for it - which means I work half a day a year for free, just to pay for that 4c difference....Ok i'm over thinking this. But I always run 98.........even on my LS400 which had a 90L tank......$150 fills make you want to cry!!

With 98 tipped to hit $1.65-$1.70 a litre over the next fortnight, I'd like to know too!!!

Seems like money talks, so maybe you should chuck a price in! Badluck Sean, that stings, i know you've been after one of these for a while. Maybe you should start having a chat to some reputable exhaust shops? I am confident there are talented enough fabricators right here in Australia who could put together an excellent system for a competitive price. It might not have the brand name, but at least you can design it exactly how you want. I know I'd change a few things about the design of mine if I could! GLW sale of your car Sheldon, i know it's inconvenient but the only time i've ever come close to breaking even on a car is when i've stripped the parts and returned to stock. I wish I knew more about the value of the work you'd put into yours when I was in the market - it would have been a great buy at the current price. Kinda worries me that the market is so soft......looks like i'll be in for the long haul with mine!

A mate of mine just bought a ml 270 CDI - he knows nothing about cars so I looked over it for him. It wasn't a bad machine, pulled ok, brakes were really strange - apparently vacc assisted, but feels like you're stepping on a sponge. I would just worry about cost of repairs, although strangely, from the research i did for him they say the diesel is far more reliable than the petrol. I'd stick to Japanese at that price range though. Pajero, Prado....or is that too big?

i understand it's an EOI, but putting some prices up might cut down on a bit of the backwards and forwards. some nice parts in there - should be plenty of interest

Good bloke, i'll send you a PM - just need a lead on where to source the correct Nissan matic fluid?? Yeh i try not to engine brake too often, i rarely drive it with intent, and no plans to track it. Just want the shift kit to speed up the shifts - they're embarassingly slow - especially pronounced when you've got an exhuast and you're giving it some WOT, you can literally count 'one-two' before it gives power to the next gear. Probably getting OT here.....

i also drive in manual pretty often, for the torque convertor reason that scotty describes. It cuts down a lot of exhaust drone in traffic as the convertor isn't flaring so much. I've got paddle shifters so it isn't really hard work or anything. Also when the mood strikes i like to engine brake, especially in hot weather, it fuels up really nice and the exhaust just pops and cracks and cackles like a V8 supercar on overrun.....makes me smile. Most likely due to my questionablly legal cats...... Not sure how great this is for the life of the box. Because of the adaptive shifting, sometimes when i'm coming to a stop and it shifts from 2 to 1 it gives a pretty big jolt to the driveline. Next on my list will be TransGo.......(scotty? :-))

i know that on the RE5 if you're at cruising speed and knock it to manual it will automatically drop down a gear. EG. 5>4, 4>3 If it's shifting fine in automatic mode, and shifting up and down ok in manual, and the only issue is the gear selection defaulting to 3rd then i'd say the box will be fine, and it would be sensor related - perhaps the speed sensor. I'd perform ECU reset, and if it is still displaying problem - run an OBD2 scanner across it (if you're a car guy, seriously just go buy one of these - i bought an Actron off amazon for 70 bucks delivered - unless you plan on owning cars pre 2001 for the rest of your life, you'll always have a use for one of these).

cheers, Aaron - will lock it in.

I signed up and paid for membership last week - I hope it comes through in time for me to get the details on this.....

Chris, I have both the PAC SWI-X and the Metra Axxess (don't ask why). I am running a pioneer avh-p8450bt - of the two ,its, which do you recommend. I was to,d to use the Metra so bought that, but seeing as I also have a PAC I figured it wouldn't hurt to ask which is better for my head unit.

Amp and PAC sold. Infinity speakers still avail.

Looks heaps better, pepperyourangus. I picked this up during the week.....

yeah for sure, the thread basically talks about how he paid for an auto elec to come up with a solution to get the S2 gauge working in his S1 and that was the result. He did a bit of work to make it neater, but it still comes down to the fact that you need to rewire everything. I have done a little bit of wiring in my time, and learned a few things as I have gone along, but there is no way in hell I would take on that job. To get that many things working perfectly (and lets be honest, what's the point of a gauge that doesn't work perfectly?) would be a literal nightmare. A job best left for the pros, and it would not be cheap! besides - this would be much cooler.....

lol - thought that might be the general response. you'd have a beter time doing a full custom gauge fascia or installing a STACK digital display.

They're certainly one of the better known brands - but I have read of issues with movement on the upper mounting bushes. But like anything on the net, you got to take it with a grain of salt. I have SPC rear arms, and have no complaints whatsoever. Be good to see you post some thoughts once they go in, good luck!

you guys might want to have a read of this thread......http://g35driver.com/forums/lighting/99235-put-05-06-gauge-cluster-my-03-a.html and if you can't be bothered, this pic tells a thousand words.....

there is a silver boot lid at niss4x4 in laverton. expect to pay 400-450.