SMOKEYV35

that is a beautiful base car to start with. Really just needs rims and you're set. The right offsets are crucial as you won't be able to get this thing that low with how deep your kit is. go for 19X9's in the mid teens and you will be laughing. eg (19x9 +15) very jealous - but hope you enjoy washing your car, going to have your work cut out for you with black!

you said a few posts ago it was driving you nuts and that you miss your stock turbo? no biggie, jsut asking as i would consider one...

whats wrong with your hypergear?

No worries. i do need to make an ammendment though. the Novus guy called me back and was very apologetic that he misquoted me. It will now be $320 supplied and fitted - he is coming my work to do the installation. Still markedly cheaper than anyone else i called. however, what is worth noting is that as part of his apology he did mention that the cost price of the windscreen from a supplier is $240 dollars, so keep that in mind when you are getting quotes. anything over that amount is labour and profit margin. given that it takes an hour for installation, you can make your own calculations as to what a fair price is.

thanks - it looks much nicer with the caps on and the front lip installed, but had to remove that - driveway entrance to the apartment is too steep and it scrapes. next step will be vinyl wrap on the roof and mirrors, then detail the engine bay. got maxima gas struts for the bonnet, and a radiator air guide to install this weekend.

so to add some sort of relevance to this thread here is some pricing current as of 27/6/11 Novus:$250 O’Brien: $498 Vic Auto Glass: $560 National Windscreens: $695 All installed onsite, except o'brien which was an extra fee for the call out. i am amazed at the price discrepencies - which just goes to show that it pays to ring around. hopefully this info will be helpful for people in the future.

old mate wants to sell his stagea. just politely showing him the door....

I'll make it easy for you for everyone else, happy to post my findings - will be doing a ring around tomorrow as it's spreading about an inch every 5mins of driving

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/221282-stagea-s2-aftermarket-dump-pipes/page__hl__dump http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/302514-series-2-dumpfront-pipe/page__hl__dump+pipe__st__20 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/284923-just-jap-racing-3-stainless-dump/page__p__4795907__hl__dump+pipe__fromsearch__1#entry4795907 as i said - there are mixed reports as to how well they fit - but that could be purely a reflection on the build quality of them from a start - every one might be slightly different?! grain of salt. most importantly - let us know what you decide on in the end and how it fits. it's good when people who start a thread asking a question, post the answer when they find it.

car as it stands now.....shocking photo BBS center caps are absent.....had a set of red/gold ones sent from overseas - and had the black ones off in preperation......they arrived on thursday and girlfriend accidentally threw them down the rubbish chute with a bunch of other rubbish before i got home.....devestated! new set on order

do your research with the search buttton. it's not as straightforward as you think. only certain brands fit and i'm pretty sure that's not one of them.

what part of that is helpful to anyone?

hey guys, mine has just got a crack in it - lower left hand corner - and it has taken off towards the center of the window. need to get it fixed asap. anyone got a price recently in melbourne? just thrilled about the fact that i have to spend money on f**king shit like this. and no, my insurance won't cover it - just cars are tightarses.

most likely a combination of a few things. 3" exhaust with a very free flowing cat converter (don't even think 200 cell is legal here in australia) - means the exhaust gasses are speeding out at a high rate, and not slowing enough for the C02 to burn off as they would in the stock system. do you have anything higher than stock boost? as soon as the factory computer senses you're over stock boost, it retards the timing and richens the mixture significantly. if you are running with higher boost, next time you floor it, watch out the rear window - you will see the unburnt fuel just pouring out the back. the wagon design, with the very upright rear tailgate creates a significant low pressure area behind the car. it basically sucks everything that passes over the car and under the car up onto the rear tail gate. it's why whenever you drive a stagea in the rain, within a minute the rear window is filthy. same goes for dust, road grime, and exhaust fumes!

go for it. just remember - 'less is more' when it comes to this stuff.

lol. way to go get everyone excited! i'd folllow up with one of the guys wrecking. don't forget that car's with sunroofs have different mounting points to those without. personally i'd prefer it if you do some for cars with sunroofs ;-)

the automotive adhesive fantastic stuff. used it for the past 10 years and it has never failed. if you make a mess, clean it up with prepsol before it dries. wear gloves too, because it will stain your fingers for a few days and gets impossibly deep under your finger nails!

i tried 3m double sided. didnt stand up to the summer heat after the car had been sitting in the car park at work all day - soon as i hit the freeway the tape pulled free. i used sikaflex on the front section that runs down the a-pillar, and on the top it's just held on by tape and the tabs. but you're right - sikaflex is awesome stuff until you want to get rid of it!

yer mine doesnt do anything when it's in the middle position. think it just means the circuit is open. only other thing i can think of is most euro cars, when the switch is in the middle position the mirrors or on heat or piezo function - but i'd say only cars with cold weather packs would have that if at all......dont know for a fact so speculation only. i wouldnt go tearing stuff apart. and to be honest, i play with my switches as little as possible. i've had one motor sieze up before and stop working momentarily - so now i just leave them alone.

to give you an idea, with the factory manual rear i could fit 9.5 +22's in the rear but they juuuuuuust touched the coilover body. fitted a 15mm bolt on, and with a gaurd roll and stock camber arms they are about 5mm inside the gaurds when the suspension is full compressed - ie, they don't rub. so in summary, on a manual rear end, a 9.5 +0 fits with only flattening of the lips and would sit 'hella flush' - and clears the struts easily. that's with 235's fitted

ouch - for what it's worth i'd be putting the stock wing back on. the holes look nasty. does anyone know if the holes between the S2 stock wing and the S2 Dayz wing match up? i wouldnt mind replacing my dayz wing with a stocker - a bit cleaner, a bit less 'look at me'.

someone buy my black coloured used tyres! they are actually in good nick, only reason i got rid of them is that the front right had a bubble in the sidewall and due to pesky bloody ATTESSA i had to replace all four - front pair went in the bin. rears are good to go.

bet you wish you thought of this before you munted the gaurds!!! sorry!!!

haha, if she reads it, it will be more a case of 'what HAVEN'T you done lately'..... been getting some progress with mine lately. makes me want to keep it, partly because it's looking hot and running like a dream - partly because i have spent so many labour hours on it lately and nearly lost a thumb in the process! there is blood on the cam covers still! over the last few weekends it has been: - rolled rear gaurds - fitted BBS LM's 19x9.5 (+20 front, +5 rear with bolt on spacers fitted) - lowered another 35mm - wheel alignment - Platinum plugs - Adonised R33 Calipers red - New project MU pads up front - German spec DRL's mounted in side vents - sprayed cooler black, black hose fittings - stealthy - Stage21 front lip, wrapped in Carbon fibre - M35 rear wiper - shaved rear badges - Rays wheel nuts on the to do list: -Fit r33 radiator air guide (hasn’t arrived yet so don’t know how much modding will be required) -Fit new bonnet struts (from a 95 Maxima – haven’t arrived – hope they fit) -Fit Red/Gold BBS center caps -Heat shield for pod and find some way to get cold air to it (!!) -Neo tech rear camber arms -Raise car 10mm – lip hits my driveway >:-( -another alignment -Do some serious cleaning in engine bay – has been neglected for too long! then might start detailing some parts....... it never ends, and it's hard work when you don't have a garage and you're not allowed to work on your car in the body corporate carpark.

there is also a gibson motorsport one for sale on the forums that i saw. made for an RB20 but fit up to RB25's no worries. if you haven't heard one of these things in real life you're missing out..... s3x for your hearing. still remember the first time i heard a car pull away, not even on full boost, with one of these on..... never heard a turbo car sound the same, it sounded like an exotic supercar.