SMOKEYV35

plenty of people run them with not much problem. You may need to get the faces machined down for peace of mind more than anything - but other than that, the only other real issue with them is if you're hanging a big turbo off it, especially high mount - you might want to reinforce it with some additional bracing as some have cracked in the joins under severe heat. other consideration you need to make is if you want to redo the cooler piping/front pipe or not - because the aftermarket manifold will most likely move the location of the turbo. if it's just to fix the problem of a damaged stock one, just get a stock one - spend the extra money on getting it cleaned up inside professionally. as has been said, stock ones support plenty of power - but keep in mind, these are a piece of cast steel, mass produced at lowest possible cost to get the job done using the least amount of materials and taking up if you're doing turbo, new lines, doing your cooler etc then i'd do go aftermarket - quality will vary with price to a certain point - but if you want a good option at not huge cost check out the 6boost manifolds. otherwise, has been said - stick with what nissan thought best.

nice. did you find you needed to get adjustable toe arms to counter them at your ride height?

ebay for the clear blinkers. R34 GTT fit. can get nismo ones which i found fit easily and have dont let water in - or there are cheaper ones that i'd say would let water in.....based on past experience with cheap ones.

what arms are you thinking? i was looking at the neo-tech arms yesterday - they look to be decent quality, and have rubber boots around the ball joints which should make them quieter/last longer.

nothing? :-( really wish someone was still doing those radiator deflectors too....... wonder if an R33 one can be trimmed to fit

the obvious question would be 'why would you', and in the next breath i'd say 'doesn't matter - you won't'. but in all seriousness, you would probably have better luck and better results privately importing one of these. Toyota Crown Estate

that black stag is bl00dy low. tucking tyre on 16's lol. how do you find the bump steer and camber wear in the rear?

oooh nice. thanks for that. pics to come for slipperylotion ;-)

in the fuse box on the drivers side behind the battery? whole heap of fuses and relays - but no wiring. how can i splice in? other suggestion has been alternator - but i'd be a bit hesitant tapping in there in case the alternator overcharged and blew up my expensive DRL's!

Get me an answer and I will...... ;-)

hey guys, have fitted up some DRL's - they look awesome, but i need to find a 12V source that is only on when the car is running - but ideally i want to tap this into somewhere in the engine bay to save having to run more wiring into the cabin. any suggestions?? car is an S2 RS4S. cheers, mat

i'm using a return flow cooler so there is no free hole for me to run an air intake through. got this whizz bang 3 inch flexi pipe with bell mouths on either end that i got off flea bay but can't for the life of me find a way to run it through. anyone found a way???

can he do nistune?

car is in storage, and gauges are in the car - can get pics this weekend.

don't know the answer, but do know i have a set of factory Stagea ones for sale. torque/volts/boost in that order.

rear bar, dingus. would these work for you mark? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/364210-dolphin-side-skirts-rear-bar/

Hey guys, got a few bits n pieces planned for the weekend. Need to know how to take the front bar off on an S2. Can’t find anything through searching. Other thing I’d like to know is if anyone has had any luck replacing the bonnet struts. Mine are shot. thanks in advance.

BUMP. looks like a really clean and honest car. GL with sale.

do yourself a favour and get some of these. http://www.theretrofitsource.com/product_info.php?products_id=249 complete with quality HID kit for 170USD, plus, you can also specify your current globe type and get it will come with Plug'n'play connections.

TJ is selling a dolphin rear bar and side skirts in another thread on here.

mate, any rust - walk away. because if it's rusting in places you can see, just imagine what it's like in all those places you can't see. and rust is literally like cancer - you need to remove so much more than what appears to be damaged just to make sure it doesn't come back. do yourself a favour and walk away. buy a clean base car to start with - it's the best advice i've ever been given, and the best advice i can give anyone looking.

Rule of thumb when buying a car is don't buy a 'hero' colour. who want's to buy a Tiger Mica or Hot House Green commodore?? Same thing for the VEII yellow's that are out now.....stick to your whites/blacks/silvers and you will protect your resale. in terms of constructive help - The only other thing I can suggest if you’re not willing to drop your price, is to try and increase your exposure. Get a for sale sticker for the back window, put a printed sheet inside the window detailing the car – km’s, rego, etc – give people a bit of info to make them want to call your mobile. Make sure the car is always well groomed so that it appears immaculately looked after whenever people happen see it – a bit of tyre shine and some quick detail spray goes a long way. Park it in a highly visible area during the day so you get some traffic going past it. Get the car up on firesport.com, nissansilvia.com, jdmst, make sure it’s nominated as a ‘unique car’ on carsales.com so that it goes onto uniquecarsales.com.

bump ski. these are like steroids for your stance - pump it up!

hey guys, wanting to move to a double din DVD unit - so these are up for sale cos won't fit. factory unit which shows Volts, Torque, Boost. Have red LED's in them wihch look sweet. not sure what the deal is with signals etc, you'll have to do the research. asking $160+postage located Melb contact via PM

dont understand why anyone would drop that sort of cash on an ecu, but then not want to spend on getting it tuned. it costs 150 bucks an hour to get on a dyno - so you're probably looking at an hour an a half to get the stock map loaded and tweaked to take advantage of basic mods. or for the same money you could buy a wideband kit and have a go at doing some semi informed damage. or you could skip the wideband, and do some likely damage and cost yourself much more in the long run, which is highly likely if you're aims are to improve response (ie, wind in more timing) and trim fuel (ie, lean out the mix)......both which are two of the main ingredients in a pre-detonation cocktail! long story short - save a few bucks, get it to a tuner who knows what they're doing, and save yourself the heartache.