SMOKEYV35

i've got fujitsubo s/s 3" on mine. i think its a good exhaust for an every day driver (like mine) because it isn't too loud in the cabin, doesn't drone, and still has a bit of note when you get on it, but 89dB so remains legal. the construction is just amazing - i love getting under the car and admiring it. but i have heard that the HKS and Kakimotos flow better - but louder and may be over legal dB.

SOLD. and to the bloke who messaged me at 2.30am this morning telling me he REALLY NEEDED SOME SPACERS after i had just got to sleep following a 12 hour day - not cool.

yeh if someone finds a good quality good priced kit to suit, let me know. i did my first change on it about a month ago and couldnt believe how tricky it was to get in there and then the mess ensued. relocation kit would be awesome and allow you to run an even bigger filter if you wanted.

tighten the screw = more flutter loosen = more psssh think of it like a water tap - tighten it and it lets less water out, tighten it all the way it lets no water out. think of water as the air inside your intake, and you're on the right track. having it tightened all the way up won't restrict your max boost - only your spool time between gear changes. the only risk to boost with a BOV is having it too loose, which can result in boost leaking past the valve. is it truly a vent to atmoshpere BOV? or is it plumbed back into the air intake? if it really is a true atmo BOV then my advice would be to run it pretty tight - having it open up all the time will result in getting bad air/fuel mixtures as it dumps metered air out and causes overfuelling - which will just hurt your hip pocoket. it will make it flutter a bit more, yes, but don't buy into what everyone tells you about it hurting the compressor - VL turbo's dose all day long on 20+yr old bush bearing turbos and have no issues. if you want to increase your performance, and your engine's efficiency - get that baby plumbed back or put the stock unit back on. it will be quieter, legal by the EPA, and your car will go harder.

pics as requested

that looks amazing.

don't know? don't have a GT-R - but i do have R34 GT-R Coilovers so i just assumed the top hat pattern would be the same - and i'd say knowing nissan - that there would have to be other skylines using the same pattern with braces that bolt to the towers. good to know though. your search continues! but seriously, yahoo japan - second hand - contact aaron at import monster and he'll get it done for you - save yourself the hassle. actually, contact him regardless - i know he has a few stags that he is wreckign and might have a strut brace for you. if not, he will have a heap of braces that he could try in the back of his personal stagea.

it appears wagons are very good at carrying speakers! :-P going to need to uprate the springs in the rear with all that weight. should look mad when its finished. what are you thinking in terms of finish on the install? carpet? vinyl? i also reckon lighting makes or breaks an install - with the cheapness and availability of all sorts of LED's these days, you're spoilt for choice. any ideas? my only tip would be to keep it so that you can still pull the cargo blind over the top of the install when parked. would hate to see you lose it all - and i know most insurers won't cover stereos!

well given that GT-R suspension goes into the rear then i'd assume the top hats are the same as GT-R's - which means the outer mounts off any GT-R will fit - then you just have to get the measurement in between the towers. maybe try for a whiteline or something with a rose joint in it, which will allow you to fine tune the length?

excellent price for a rare combo - black, dayz kit, dual roofs, leather. good luck w sale.

bump. i remember a time when these were impossible to get!

any interest in another stagea? not really the best track car....but can't hurt to throw my hat in the ring!

i used a product called Glassylite to restore my headlights. i used to use Meguiars PlastiX but found that they would just yellow up after a couple of weeks. with the Glassylite, you are basically cutting back the polycarbonate lens, polishing it with lighter grade compounds as you go, and the final step is a nano-sealant which seals the plastic again. 6 months on and no yellowing, they look brand new. best 40 bucks i've spent on the car.

i like the look of it, but sheesh, 38mm to the x/member - has to be borderline undriveable...... might have to start looking at some bash plates to protect any important bits. if you're on stancenation i'm sure you would have seen all the images of oil pans that have scraped through! i used to think i was bad a$$ with 60mm of clearance on my LS400.....got sick of not being able to drive it anywhere and the sound of UCA's trying to punch out of the strut towers tho...i must be getting old huh.....

bumpski. car will be going in to chasers for a tidy up tune shortly. would be interested in swapping for something around the 10-12k mark with cash on top so i can fund an O/S trip mid year.

should be around 160psi and no higher than 170psi across all cylinders. should also be done with the engine warm. so if it was done warm - then its slightly down but not anything to worry about. if done cold, then its probably right on. one thing to note is that there is no large discrepencies across the cylinders either which suggests decent health.

bump. sell 100 but no lower! swap for 15mm bolt ons only.

PRICE: 17,000 EOI SWAPS: R34 GT-T, JZX100, Audi A4, SS ute (MUST BE CLEAN - I AM A FANATIC SO NO ROUGH CARS PLEASE) CONTACT: Via PM or O438 32O 369 Hey guys, An EOI at the moment – i’ve only had this car for 6 months and it is absolutely flawless and a fantastic vehicle - heaps of useable power, unbelievable traction – but I drive it every day 40km’s round trip in peak hour traffic to and from work – the constant stop start driving and pumping the clutch has stuffed my lower back on one side and there isn’t much I can do about it. So I need to sell it and buy something auto, or swap it for the right car with a lighter driveline. PRICE: 16,500 EOI SWAPS: R34 GT-T, JZX100, Audi A4, SS ute - 1999 Stagea Type S(Factory Manual, which has all the good bits of the RS260 only no gtr engine and brembos. Gets LSD, stronger drive shafts, and thicker swaybars over the auto versions) - 2nd OZ owner bought car 3 years ago at 58,000km currently has trouble free 110,000kms. - Car has dyno sheets for 200rwkw, and receipts for over 6k of new parts. - Has not missed a beat, and paint is flawless, as is interior. I clean it twice a week and serviced with only the best fluids every 10,000kms. Also has a lot of hard to find options such as: - Full Dayz body kit and Dayz lower foglights. - twin sunroofs (no leaks) - electronic tailgate closer - factory xenon headlights - rear cargo net and blind It had a major service at 89,000kms by Chasers the works e.g. Cambelt, Water pump, all fluids, plugs....just been freshly serviced at 110km with Motul, Trust filter and Rego till June 2011. SPECS: R33 Gts-t Brake Conversion (Slotted Rotors and Rebuilt Calipers, Project Mu pads for front and rear) Greddy Coilovers (custom uprated Eibach springs in the rear to support heavier wagon rear) Greddy rear strut brace Greddy Front Mount Greddy Blow Off Valve Greddy alloy Shifter Greddy/Trust Airinx Filter Greddy E-Manage Ultimate (Tuned by Status 200rwkw with sheets) Fujitsubo Front Pipe and Cat Back Gizzmo Electronic Boost Control Pivot Shift Lamp Pivot Speed Meter Stewart Warner 15psi Boost Gauge Kenwood CD Player Viper Remote Start Alarm with Pager 19 Inch genuine Axis Hiro Rims - Kumho Tyres good tread. Nismo Sideskirts (Still have factory ones if your interested) Whiteline Subframe kit I'm looking for around 16,500 - which when you add up the costs of these mods, is a bargain compared to what importers are asking for bone stock cars with no service history. If you're interested in having a look i'm located in southbank, melbourne – but I’m a busy person, so no timewasters or jet pilots. Contact vic PM or O438 32O 369 PICS:

feel the center of the wheel - see if it is noticeably hotter than the other side. could be as stated, a seized caliper or handbrake. could also be failed wheel bearing.

any intereste in a pearl white RS4S S2 stagea. factory manual, similar level of mods (zorst, coils, cooler, big brakes, 19s). twin sunroofs, same interior as yours, 110,000kms. 200kw at the wheels)

damn, gotta be quick! can you let me know what the brand was - ie, if it fit an RS4S - in particular the dump.

coils breaking down should result in a 'missing' sound - a shuddering and a loss of power. i'd say its pre-detonation. i wouldn't be 'experimenting' with the sound trying to work it out if i were you. your best insurance is to go to the servo and buy a bottle of octane booster - dump that in, fill the rest up with the highest octane petrol you can buy, run that through and fill it up again - if it still does it then you need to get it on a dyno and tell them you need an AFR check, that you're worried about detonation and get them to run it up carefully. if it is pinging it could be something as simple as the timing being out. either way, if it IS pining, i highly doubt its covered under a statutory warranty - it's not a roadworthy item.

really good figures tim. i compared to my graph, S2 RS4S basically the same mods but i have emanage, and no pump, but an EBC - and yours hits harder earlier, making 10kw more at 2000rpm - and where mine noses over at about 6000rpm, yours seems to pull strongly to redline. they ran it in 2wd righT

woopps. RS6 - typo there. Hard to beat. although an old B5 model RS4 with a set of big KKK turbos bolted up would also be a lot of bang for your buck.

some of the new pioneer double Din units allow you to custom match the LED colours - so using RGB LED's, you can adjust the levels to create literally any colour in the world so will match any dash perfectly. pretty cool!