SMOKEYV35

have read a few people talking about the 55W D2R globes - these will be no brighter than your standard 35W globes unless you have 55W ballasts. you can run 55w ballasts on a 35W globe and get much brighter output, but it will reduce the lifespan of the globe significantly. i wouldnt recommend going a 55W in the S2 lowbeam anyway. the housing is not a true projector housing and it just doesnt focus the beam well enough. the cut off is there, but barely. i think with an even brighter than stock globe you would run the risk of creating excessive glare. if you have driven a projector equipped car like a Honda S2K or any late model VW or mercedes you will see what a true HID pattern should look like. correctly designed projector beam with HID VS incorrect application of HID in a reflector type housing

there is a vic cruise being organised for tomorrow as part of general SAU activities. i'm going to go along with another C34 owner,all are welcome, so if you want to come for a little photo shoot and a cruise then see details in the vic thread.

Me and Tomas are going to come along in our stageas to say g'day. looks like it will be a nice evening for it. its my first SAU event so be good to meet a few crew!

did a service with Motul Chrono 300V + Greddy oil filter last weekend, i'm amazed at how smooth the car runs. stewart warner boost gauge in, and reinstalled the foglights. thinking about spraying the roof section between the rails gloss black - think it will look nice with the twin sunroofs tinted out. thoughts?

Thanks Big Fella, can you do me a favour - can you have a peek in there and see if there is a green lead wire running off the back of your yellow lights in the front bar down to the foggies in the air dam? based on that either/or switching function you just described, it might have something to do with why mine won't fire - because that wire is just hanging loose. i tested it with a multimeter and go nothing so i figured it was useless and cut it off.....

i'd say they'd be the same between s1 and s2. they are a CIBIE brand light if that helps. there are no markings on the globes or the actual housings - i looked. and yep, i made brackets just using some 90 degree angle brackets, bolted into the underside of the reo. alignment will be a case of doing some bending of the brackets, loosening of the bolts and a bit of hammer time i'd say haha. QUESTION: how do you switch them on! i can't get them to fire up, but i dont exactly know if what i'm doing is right. is the rocker switch to the right of the steering wheel the right one? because it has two positions and neither do anything, even with the lights on. and beyond that, where is the fuse for them?

i called shannons and proved i was a motoring enthusiast - 27yrs old with no claims, no suspensions, rating 1 history - they responded with quoting my a premium of around $2900 for full comp. went with just cars (mainly because i had to by that stage), this was in november last year too. pay around 800 for full comp (2k excess). no phone calls either - but i pray they don't!

a bit more research, and i'm fairly convinced they are HB3. i have downloaded a size schematic, so i'll measure it up at home. you might be right in that the bulb is H1 - but if i want to go to a HID kit, i can't use the H1 bulb as the wiring to the ballast connects directly to the bulb base, and there would be nothing to hold it in place. (the stock wiring clips into a 90 degree base (HB3), and the H1 globe slots into that). i'll post my findings.

great, thanks for that guys. have relocated the lights to the outer vents on the front bar - now for a HID kit - once i get them ligned up properly it's going to be like daylight on the backroads!

hmmm, do the h1 globes pull out of the connector? the plastic L-shaped base?

hey guys, does anyone know what the bulb size is for the driving lights that often sit in the lower front bar on Dayz edition S2 stageas??? got the globe out and the light, but no markings on either to indicate the size and it isn't in the manual. any help much appreciated. cheers, mat

your best bet is to just go with RED led's. they shine through nicely without any colour shift.

i have a set at home, i will check them out on the weekend. there must be some mounting tabs, off the reo bar at a guess. you can't fit them if you have a FMIC, hence why mine are off - but i am going to look at locating them to the side vents of the Dayz bar, and fitting them with HID's. few 90 degree brackets should do the trick i'd say.

well that might be the case but i managed to fix mine just be replacing all the globes with LEDs. hasn't played up once since - so it is obviously heat related as the LEDs run a lot cooler. i had a look at the back of the dash and someone has soldered an extra wire onto one of the copper tracks for the alarm. maybe to pick up the 'door open' signal - i dont know, seems dodgy. i think that might have had something to do with the issues - the heat affects the delicate plastic sheet that the copper tracks run in, then allows it to flex and move and touch other pins or something. who knows. LEDs fixed it......just got to put up with replacing dead LEDs every now and then....

yep, i am glad everyone arrive to their own conclusions because HID kits in halogen bowl headlights is not cool. i had it in my lexus and the glare used to hit the road signs on overpasses from 100m away, the glare was so bad. only option is to buy a set of Xenon S2 lamps and whack those in, although the cutoff isn't that great in mine IMHO. or you buy a set of non-xenon lights and to a HID projector retrofit which would be awesomely cool. see www.theretrofitsource.com for parts. you'll need to be pretty handy though!

looks like an honest car, best of luck with the sale. maybe a tip tho, take down the photo of you towing a caravan with the suspension weighed down - i know that if i were buying a car, that would be about the last thing i'd want to see......

a full exhaust is usually from the dump back. but if you're going to the trouble of getting a mechanic to fit it, you should probably get a higher flowing dump pipe fitted at the same time - JJR has them for under 200 bucks. then your exhaust will be sorted for all mods going forwards. do it once, do it right. and at a stab, the stock setup would be pushing 125-130awkw at best. with basic breathing mods you would get it up to 160rwkw in an auto, and a good tune and boost might get you to 180awkw......don't forget your auto will be costing you a lot of power. mine is manual S2 neo and has exhaust, cooler, filter, electronic boost to 12psi and Greddy eManage and it can manage 205awkw, but no more with any degree of safety. depends how serious you want to be, if you just want to get a bit more kick then spend your 2k on exhaust, boost control and tune. if you know you'll get sick of the power quickly i'd say spend your 2k on exhaust, coole, boost, pump and 12V and a filter......any left over - put it in a piggy bank and save for ECU, hi-flow, coils, and injectors and shift kit (allow 3.5k) - then you'll be well on your way to 250awkw.

the T5's are the globe size for the cluster only. T1.5's for the DIN gauges. the globes in the climate control area are a special screw in type that are hard to find. 666DAN has globes suitable for the actual screen display, and has only recently found a cut down size globe for the c/control buttons. i have one of his kits in red and they work quite well. have only had an issue with one of the multi directional T5's in the dash and Dan promptly sent me a replacement at no cost.

haha, i think your sentiments are clear! every car i've debadged i've had success with just heating the area with a blow dryer to soften the glue, then sliding a piece of fishing wire behind the badge and use a gentle pulling/sawing motion. they come off pretty easy. then to get the remaining glue off use some wax and grease remover and just dab it on, let it sit for a minute, then wipe off gently (don't scrub, you can damage the clearcoat). then hit it with some polish and then wax, and it should be good to go. worst that can happen is you mess it up somehow, and you have to stick the badge back on.

yep, after driving to work in the rain and realising i used my rear wiper twice, i'm thinking it's not worth getting rid of. i love the practicality of this car, i should stop thinking of ways that reduce that. my ls400 had 5% tint on the rear window and it was vergining on downright dangerous in the wet, even during the day i couldn't see a single thing out the rear window - i was too afraid to change lanes, and merging onto the freeway was like gambling with your life! still, it's a damn good looking rig. still got that m35 wiper mike?

must have been drilled out from 112 to 114, look like SSR Strusse Agle's though, which would be a cheaper/safer option. nice car, looks awesome sliding, hey!

does anyone know how to go about deleting the rear wiper? speedhunters have been doing a feature on sedans and haulers and featured a few stageas this month - this one today looks ultra clean, and makes me want to delete the badges and wiper on mine, but i'm wanting to know if anyone knows of a bung kit to suit?

car will be going to vic. sale price was between 70 and 80k.

i know the story behind it, without disclosing too much.....i've got access to all the info on it. incident report reads as guy from toll was reversing it off a truck, hit the go pedal instead of the stop pedal and wedged it under a truck trailer damages in the insurance paper work were est at 27k. i'll find out what it sold for tomorrow

just throwing this in the mix, Blitz coolers for NM35 on sale on justjap as an FYI http://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?p...=430&page=1