SMOKEYV35

got your timing BELT done? or you got your timing adjusted...? if you suspect the two are related then i'd suggest popping the bonnet and have someone gently rev it from cold - it could just be a slipping belt that they need to tension up more.

not foggy or -20degrees round here all that often and 8000k!!? they are actually weaker than stock lights, and will be rubbish in the wet. do some reading at www.theretrofitsource.com i bought a Infiniti FX-R bi-xenon retro fit kit off these guys and did a lot research etc, and anything abouve 5000k is just a waste of time.

did a post in 'general maintenance' too. have been searching all afternoon (at work) trying to find info. even looking for posts relating to R34's but only stuff i can find mentions a similar problem with no solution - hate it when people do that!

how do you actually get the foggy's out of the front bar itself? i think i'll look at upgrading these, and throwing some HIDs in the driving lights once i work out how to mount them now that the cooler is in their original place

Got a little niggling issue. car is a 99 RSfourS, 100,000kms. If i have the lights on (and thus the dash illumination lights are on) after about an hour of driving, the speedo and tacho start to read higher and higher than normal. and then a few minutes later, they completely die and the digital odometer goes out. Fuel gauge stays on, and backlighting stays on - but everything else zeros out. i have spoken to the previous owner who confirms this happened to him at night time also, so i am 100% positive it has something to do with the dash illumination lights being on, and given that it seems to always happen on or around an hour after i switch the lights on, i can only assume it is heat related?? i am attempting to remedy this by replacing all the globes with LEDs from 666DAN, but it's more of a bandaid solution than fixing the problem. does anyone have any insight? cheers mat

looks like we're in this one together, fritters! how long does yours take to play up? and does it fix itself if you let the car cool down for a bit? it also seems to fix itself if i turn the aircon on for a few minutes, again, confirming the heat related theory.

no dramas mate, like i said - not gospel, just info i've picked up from 15 years on car forums .......oh and a few trips out to macleoud for EPA testing....... rims are ok. 17s are same size as standard, so can't see it being an issue at all, just so long as your tyres are load rated correctly, and not overly stretched. braided brake lines, yes technically they are better - but there is also a lot of dodgy ebay bought braided lines available - i can show you a thread that has pictures of a catastrophic failure of braided lines during a stop from 250km/h on a track day - the car was saved by a combination of downshifting and handbrake application. brakes are not something to mess with! but given the money spent on the rest of this build, i'd say they are legit. might be worth checking them though. 100mm is measured from the absoloute lowest point on the car. usually it is the catalytic convertor. turbo timers are apparantly illegal because they leave the car running whilst unattended. worst case scenario - you roll your car through the window of a busy cafe - it is leaking fuel like madbut also, and you are unconscious and trapped in the car, but a someone is able to pull the keys out of the ignition - but the car keeps running........ boost controllers are illegal because they effectively have the capability to alter the fuel mixture of the car. any device that leads to an alteration to a richer fuel mixture (as measured by a Co2 meter) is an EPA fail. just one of those blanket rules. these are an easy one for cops to spot, as people usually put them in easy to reach places for adjustment reasons. just try hide it as best you can. its just a blanket rule that applies from everything as simple as bleed valves, EBCs, SAFCs, powerFCs, all the way up to stand alone ECUS. you should be right if you behave yourself in a small town - but get on the wrong side of the cops and they'll ping you ever time! in fact, i'd probably prefer to be in a large city !!

yeh kid, i chose red for this reason. so i'll just try get everything in the car to red which i think will look killer. i've got LEDs lined up for the gauges, dash, cig lighter, ignition etc. i'm going to look into getting the window buttons done too. pity the gizmo EBC is blue.....

interesting - well, i'm happy to give it a crack. i have read of a couple of people disgruntled with their LEDs from Dan, but then again, also a lot of people who they have worked well for. it's not a huge expense in the scheme of things and not permanent so i'll see how they go. and if needs by i'll investigate a way to secure them more strongly. thanks for the heads up though.

nah, it behaves perfectly up until that point in time. only thing i can think that heat would affect would be causing the expansion of a connection which then loosens or something like that. when i get in there to do the LED's ill give everything a good clean and rough up the terminals etc. hoping that the lower operating temp of the LEDs will correct the issue. i can't seem to find anyone ever having a similar problem though, have done a bit of searching including on R34s....

sounds like a weapon! in answer to your question, of what is defectable and what isn't - it's all very subjective and dependant on the mood of the cop who pulls you over (and i guess also the reason he pulled you over!). in terms of what is going to prevent you from getting it roadworthy for registration, i think the cage might present an issue if it isn't fully padded - do some reading on DOTARS. a reasonably on the level tester will just be looking for the obvious and well known stuff like noise, number of induction modifications (if its got a cooler, no pod filter), ride height, gauges on the dash etc. almost anything can be engineered, if you're happy to spend the time and money to satisfy requirements - but most people find its easier to remove and replace later. in terms of what is defectable, i can only comment from my knowledge in vic (and it is by no means bible) - but i'll go through your list..... VOLK TE37 BLACK 17" Alloys. N1 R34 GTR Turbos - should be ok as look same as stock, just hi flowed and wheeled. HKS Dump Pipes - no problem Greddy Piping Kit - no problem so long as all factory fittings retained for vacuum and returns NEW Exedy Triple Plate Clutch - no problem N1 Apexi fully adjustable suspension (coil over i belive...) - subjective, coilovers are a grey area, but if ride height is 100mm min then shouldn't give them a reason to look. Mines airflow meters - touch and go - EPA might ping it, but an average traffic cop wont unless it's got MINES written all over it, but as a rule, you can't switch AFM's. HKS Spark Plugs - no prob Braided brake lines. - problem. unless they're approved. Front dampers - coilovers? no problem anyway Rimax Clear cam cover - no probs Oversized injecters & fuel rail - problem. EPA would spot it, and maybe even TMU. but for RWC, you'll pass. Adjustable cam gears - problem, especially behind clear covers. maybe through a stock cover on and problem solved, HKS Front mount intercooler - no prob, so long as no body work has been cut to fit. HKS 24 Row oil Coiler. - no problem Aftermarket exhaust (not sure what diametre as yet) - so long as under dB limit and has cat converter Engine Dampener. - no problem Front and rear torsion bars. - no prob Brake Booster. - no prob Relocated Oil Filter. - no prob Full Roll Cage. - potential prob if not padded correctly or if interferes with passengers Blitz Turbo Timer. - apparantly these are illegal Blitz Boost controller. - problem if found GReddy gauges, oil pressure, fuel pressure, Oil temp, exhaust temp + more. - if they're all electronic, and not placed in the 'immediate crash zone' on the dash, then not a prob. This is one awesome car, which can run up to 1.6 Bar. Endless Brake Pads all round - no prob Recaro Front seats - should be no prob

Got a little niggling issue. car is a 99 RSfourS, 100,000kms. If i have the lights on (and thus the dash illumination lights are on) after about an hour of driving, the speedo and tacho start to read higher and higher than normal. and then a few minutes later, they completely die and the digital odometer goes out. i have spoken to the previous owner who confirms this happened to him at night time also, so i am 100% positive it has something to do with the dash illumination lights being on, and given that it seems to always happen on or around an hour after i switch the lights on, i can only assume it is heat related?? i am attempting to remedy this by replacing all the globes with LEDs from 666DAN, but it's more of a bandaid solution than fixing the problem. does anyone have any insight? cheers mat

saw a baysude blue S2 RSfourS in Richmond yesterday. no sunroofs, sheepskin seat covers, and generally looking very much in need of a wash. plates were TRN-xxx. also found this classified ad. probably the most insane stag i've seen for sale in oz! http://firesport.com.au/98-nissan-stagea-r...s--ad138439.htm i have no idea how he is getting a RWC for it, that crossbar on the rollcage looks like it's just waiting to break someones jaw.

sounds pretty similar chef. mine is on the drivers rear, and it's not letting water into the car - but there is enough of a gap for me to tell that it would be sending water down the guttering rather than letting the seal do it's work. i found this: http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/104404-leaky-body-sunroof-2.html sounds like what you're talking about, did you do the same on yours??

ow unlucky, hopefully just a seal and you havent sent an exhaust wheelll through the works. spent yesterday arvo, and all day today cleaning the InsIDE of my car. took off all the seals, cleaned and conditioned them, cleaned all the doors and door jams, sunroof seals etc, hit all the furry stuff with upholstery cleaner.....it was an epic battle. also relocated the gizmo EBC from out of the glove box where it was rattling around, to just under the headunit. need to hook up a kill switch in the event that i get pulled over, but looks trick. next weekend it will be exterior, and weekend after that, engine bay and underbody - but i'm slowly getting there! it'll be mint once its done. question, does anyone have trouble with the rear sunroof not sealing up? it looks like the rear edge of mine could go up another 2-3mm - and i reckon it's letting water in. it tends to fog after a wash with the high pressure hose? tried to manually wind it a bit further, but wouldnt budge.

looks awesome though.....

awesome, sounds good - maybe once the weather gets a bit fairer - although they have said it will be a wet spring, which is fvcked - so over winter. and no fun at all for you with a black car!! i'm loving white already, so easy to keep clean, just pulled into the car wash this morning - $1 in the high pressure washer, sprayed off the dirt and its back to new!!

if anyone is interested www.pivotracing.com has a sale on a lot of their gear, and with the USD up around 94 cents, it's a good time to buy parts from O/S. i just got a speed meter and a shift lamp (yeh i know, couldnt help myself). speed meter is to correct the speedo, the 19's have thrown it out - and i figure this is cheaper than a speeding fine!

hoping to get a few of mine up once i give it a scrub! also, whats the best way for me to get involved with some other vic stagea members?

yeh i'm not worried about that. its the restoration steps - i've got pretty much the entire meguiars catalogue of cutting creams at my disposal from ultimate compound, swirl remover, paint cleaner to polish. i've heard that with some pearl paints, the pearl is mixed through the top layer of clear coat, so by cutting it you can actually cut back the pearl???

planning on giving the car a full detail this weekend as it's been living outside for a few years i think, starting with a claybar and working through the different lotions and potions. my only question is, is there any specific care i need to take with the pearl white paint? i've heard that it shouldnt be polished? or is that more in reference to using cutting compounds?

don't worry Justin, it has gone to a good home - i'm sure the void will be full of EVO before you know it. The whole drive home my mind was ticking over - can't wait to get stuck into it! will need to do some research on the whole nistune vs piggyback deal, but i already have the emanage and a FIELD harness with the car - so in terms of convenience it's probably going to stay that way. Tuner wise, i'll probably go with Chasers. Paul tuned the Wolf3D that was in my sklyline and that turned a mess of a car into a half streetable car - plus they're also on my side of town. will look at getting it tuned again once i get a dump pipe on it, and potentially highflow the stock turbo - needs more powahh!

i bought a 99 RSFOURS off a fellow forum member. have not had a good chance to 'get to know' the car, but i'm pretty happy with it so far! think the first step will be getting the emanage in and tuned and work on tuning out the R&R when it hits boost - 3 gear loaded from low revs and i could just see the fuel vapour pouring out behind the car.

picking up my new stagea tonight, just a little bit excited!!@

can i get some pics of the lights? any fading, foggage, leakage? and are the xenons (understand they dont have the hardware fitted, but do they have the black 'XENON' written on them and provisions for D2S globes)?