SMOKEYV35

hey guys, car has developed a tinny rattling sound at idle. it seems to go away with throttle, and then as the revs drop it rattles again. i got under the car and held one end of a screwdriver to everything i could think of, and the other to my ear - and i suspect it's related to the exhaust. it could be something simple like a loose heat shield or a stone caught behind a shield......but i'm also worried it could be something more sinister - like little bits of ceramic exhaust wheel bouncing around in front of the mesh on the cat converter....... stock neo turbo has been running 11-12psi off the EBC.......is there any other way i can diagnose other than dropping the exhuast in front of the cat and seeing what comes out? its my first experience with a ceramic wheeled turbo, so any insight would be good! for example, if the exhaust wheel does sh1t the bed, does it do it all at once, or will the blades break/chip off slowly.....? because the car is still boosting reasonably strong, only paranoia is making me question it.... cheers! Mat

hey mate i'd be interested to see ur sub setup, i did some measuring today and was left scratching my head.....

from extensive reading, everyone says motul 300v chrono - good news is that its 20% off at repco this weekend - i bought 6L for about 120 bucks.

just another one of those inconveniences of driving a unique vehicle! i'd be getting the mechanical shop to cover a portion of the replacement costs if i were you...... also, the justjap link i sent you for the nismo mats lists them as a fit for BCNR33 - so maybe that is worth investigating? if the R33 mats fit, you'll probably have a better chance of finding a set of those.

pretty hard to come by! maybe someone who is wrecking might have a set, but other than that i'd say most owners hang on to these for obvious reasons! only other place i've seen them for sale is here http://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?p...cat=&page=2

god damn that is one hot car. is that a reversing camera on the tailgate? your engine bay is so neat, makes me want to leave work right now and go get stuck into mine! efforts must be doubled! good luck with the sale!

got a pic of this yoot with gold chrome GT-R rims on it, i'll try dig it up tonight. i reckon it looks awesome. if a tree ever fell on the back of mine, i'd do it!

got them from 666DAN. i have also done the 3 DIN gauges. unfortunately the LEDs he gave me for the climate control buttons dont fit - they're too tall and foul on the circuit board so i had to leave those stock. tried filing the LED's down but couldnt get them low enough without risking exposing the element. bit annoyed because i did actaully send him the thread that explained this problem.....but he said they'd fit and sold them to me anyway. anyway only a few bucks. also had to custom fit the LED for the key surround as it's a whack one that i'd say you can only get from nissan - part of a huge housing etc - had to drill it out and solder in a t5 LED. anyway, onwards and upwards! also managed to manipulate the wiring on my alarm siren so that it actually scares people rather than sounding like an ailing bird.

put in red LEDs to the climate control, cig and key light. dash is next...... also put in nismo clear side indicators. ordered sunday night, arrived today! thanks CJMotors!!

did you hit your head?

yeh, it was probably the compliance replacement mirror anyway - try an import compliance place they should be able to put you in touch with someone who has one or can make one for you.

i'll take the neo cover if its in good condish?

mine is on greddy coilovers, with urethane bushes and a sub-frame bush kit, and front and rear braces. the rear brace is a greddy one. i'm pretty happy with the handling, it's quite neutral with just a hint of oversteer before the fronts wheels pull the car straight. one thing i have noticed though, is my car isn't even that low visually, but the steering arms are already on a slight upward angle - so if you lower the car too much then, yeh bump steer.

err, we're looking at a 10k engine package vs a rebuild vs a drop in....... depends how much longer you want to keep the car. if you think you'll change it over in another 12 months i'd just throw a cheap replacement motor in. if you're planning on keeping it longer, rebuild it - but do it right. while you're in there, its probably not going to be much more of a stretch to bulletproof it. the other advantage is that you keep all the numbers on the car lining up (engine number to chassis number), which protects resale value. if you just like throwing money at stuff, then buy the motor that status tunning has for sale. EVIL!

found this, but for R33s.....will keep searching http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fi...dry+solder+dash

starting to look that way. i've posted in another area of the forum but got only one reply which was completely unrelated. hoping that the LEDs fix it, waiting for them to arrive, i'll keep you posted. if not my mind has wandered as far as a 12v computer fan behind the dash haha

my understanding was that it was more the domain of cars with high mounts and big tuned length manifolds that put a lot of the 'hot bits' quite high up in the engine bay etc - and obviously cars that are doing serious work. all the reasons above obviously apply. other things can be as simple as it protects the paint work from being damaged from heat exposure as well as other plastic and rubber bits that live in engine bays. i guess there would be an arguement that it would keep underbonnet temps down on a stock car, but i think a simple cold air feed would probably do more and be better at overcoming heatsoak. the stuff is also frightfully expensive! i think your money is better spent elsewhere unless you're planning on a 35/40 highmounted to a 6boost, but if you ARE then go for it!

i would have to double check, but from memory the duty is at 40, gain i started at 0 and by testing doing 4th gear pulls and then quickly stabbing the throttle into 5th, it was hitting target boost of 12.4 with gain at 30, so i'll leave it there. spike, i have not touched. if you need help setting one up i found a very helpful and straightforward thread. the actual manual from gizzmo is dribble. i read it 3 times cover to cover and still couldnt work it out! car pulls a lot more cleanly now. probably not going any harder, but the fact that i can rev it out rather than have it cut at 5k is a plus!

just started from scratch with the gizzmo EBC. it was boost cutting like a dog on the freeway if i planted it in 4th. the gizzmo was display 1.03 which i stupidly assumed was 10psi or there abouts - given that it was untouched from when i picked it up from previous owner. i was just blaming the boost cut on spiking due to the cold weather. turns out it was reading in BAR and at 1.03 its actually closer to 15psi! no wonder it was throwing out fuel like a BP oil rig, and boost cutting. also not a good idea to run 15psi on stock wheel turbo as far as i'm aware?! set the gains back to zero and wound the boost back to stock and went from there. now holding a steady 12psi and boosting so much more strongly to red line. i dont think the car was even getting into VCT before boost cutting before!! pretty happy! in defence of previous owner, it was probably setup for tune with the greddy emanage, but given that is unplugged for now i'm happy with my settings.

says the man with the busted front bar hahah, just stirring. yeh any car is driveable at any height if you're prepared to be ultra careful and make sacrifices bout where you drive and how fast. my ls400 used to smash upper control arms on a daily basis and level speed humps with the exhaust - it looked tough as balls, but you get over it quickly....

here you are mate http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Nissan-Stagea-WGNC3...=item588977dc45

ah yep, cool. i considered that car myself. there are a few references to it in this thread. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Vi...ea-t334058.html i have the auction grade sheet for it if you want, pm me your email and i'll send it to you. the auction sheet shows it as being in very good condition with only minor cosmetic scratches - however, someone who inspected the car in adelaide posted in my thread said that in real life this is not the case. in the end i decided that it wasn't worth paying the premium price for the colour alone as the car is fairly stock standard otherwise, and i wasn't convinced on the kit due to how much i'd have to lower the car to get it looking right - maybe its just the rims but it looks a bit strange to me at that height with such a deep kit. also, fact i was in melbourne and would have had to buy the car sight unseen was a risk i wasn't willing to take. then there was all this time pressure being put on me about someone else having made an offer to pay in installments so i'd need to make a quick decision etc etc, and in the end i just decided to leave it alone. but dont let any of that stop you! if you're in adelaide go check it out and you can decide for yourself. just connecting some dots for you ;-)

yer, they really are a low kit, i considered one and in the end decided against it. i have persisted with driving super low cars for the past 6-7 years - my last two cars having around 60mm at the cat - and it just makes the car so impractical. it was fine when i was younger, at uni, and drove a lot less frequently and often had a lot more spare time to get places, but driving daily and often in a hurry, it was just a PITA in the end. and with the dolphin kit, they're so blunt, that if you do manage to catch a corner coming out a drive way i'd say you'd do some damage. and i see you're in adelaide - aren't they infamous for kit wrecking spoon drains?? i also reckon its hard to get the dolphin kit looking its best without a low ride height, which is a bit of a catch 22 if you want to maintain practicality - which for your dirt road stuff is obviously an issue. maybe look for a stock one, or one with a dayz kit which are a fair bit less aggressive. which car are you looking at? is it iron chef's car?

fuel is the only thing that DOES work even when all the others go out!

yep. will check battery earth, but nothing else is playing up - it is a very localised problem. will also try the heatgun trick for what it's worth. its just annoying, as aside from that the car is flawless and i couldnt be happier.