SMOKEYV35

BUMP, all PM's replied to sorry for the delay, got my wisdom teeth out last week.....

sure does. re-gassed it 18months ago, its ice cold. cooler has been fitted specifically in a way to retain the aircon. all electronic options are fitted and working - remember this car was the luxury model of the time, equivalent to a Ti Maxima or something similar today. has working cruise (modified to operate with manual transmission), power windows, trip computer, central locking etc.

guys, got a few blokes lined up to look at it this weekend - if you're keen to have a look then let me know. my number is O438 32O 369 Brad from Ballarat, who rang me last week, i have misplaced your phone number mate - if you are still keen to come down and check it out let me know what day suits you best.

not many things have been said that have been much use to the kid. i'll throw in my 10c, dean. obviously the main things you are bound by are having to run stock management, stock fuel system, standard turbo, and legal db exhaust. in order, this is how i'd approach those issues. 1. ECU - its a nissan, get it remapped at dr.drift - the computer remains standard in appearance, so even if they open it up, it won't be possible to tell that the map has been tinkered. 2. stock fuel system is a bit of a bitch, because we all know that more fuel is half the equation to more power. now days they have gauges to apply to your injectors, so no point in even putting in stock 'looking' injectors. fuel reg is also a limitation - however, you could try the old 'tap down' method of increasing pressure - or run dummy lines to the fuel reg and hide an adjustable reg elsewhere - bit shitty and not 'legal', but is another way. other than that, upgrade the intank pump to the biggest item possible, and then run it off a relay so that it is receiving a constant 12V and will be pumping at the highest pressure possible. 3. Turbo, only way to do it without any degree of worry is to hi-flow it and steel wheel it as has been suggested. the turbo will remain stock in external appearance, but obviously perform better. 4. exhaust, not much you can do about this. however, you could possibly install a vaccum operated baffle, similar to the apexi EVC. have seen one in an HPI mag that opens using a wastegate mechanism when it senses boost. seeing as EPA only tests the car in a stationary position, the turbo will never come onto boost with no load on the engine. i know that the apexi EVC is illegal because it allows full control by the owner. but with a vaccum operated system this is not the case. and to further the argument, the golf R32 uses this exact method in their exhaust system, bypassing the rear muffler under full load. hope that helps you out a bit mate.

cheers dean. fishing for offers here. as the white 33 owner on queens pde yesterday can attest, this thing can hold its head up high amongst the grey import crowd. 3.0L vs 2.5L in a 2nd gear roll on.....tsk tsk, should have known better.

sorry about the long post, but the more info, the less questions. E.O.I : Make / Model / Year: S3 1988 Skyline Ti (5spd + Turbo) Location: Melbourne, Vic Kilometers: 121,500km Transmission type: 5sp manual Engine: RB30e+T Colour: 2006 Audi Aurora Blue Pearl (full respray inside and out) Roadworthy Certificate: No. Registered: Rego till April 08. Accident History: front quarter hit, cosmetic damage only. Professionally repaired with genuine Nissan replacement panels. Respray done at the same time. Price: 12,500 k Contact: Mat, O438 32O 369, matVL30athotmail.com, or via PM. Modifications: ENGINE: - RB30ET - VLT injectors, newly reconditioned when installed - KA24 Throttle Body, ported out and matched intake manifold (cruise control still functional) - Darkhalf ECU - Bosch 040 fuel pump, 4GA wiring from battery to fuel pump terminals, running off relay. - 3" exhaust, hi-flo cat, Lukey muffler, with twin 3" dump pipes – very deep bassy note, but legal db. - 600x300 cooler (sprayed black on one side, invisible from outside car, polished on other side.) - 2.5-2.75” cooler piping by ExhaustWorx, comes with two induction configurations, high mounted K&N filter, or sik dose pipe. - Quality Hybrid Silicon hoses throughout all with T-bolt clamps - Twin GT-R BOV’s plumbed back. Stealthy but effective. - PWR custom catch can, 90-deg alloy rocker fittings. - 5 spd Manual conversion - HD Exedy sports extreme clutch - 170rwkw @ 9psi and stock fuel pump (now with 040 and upgraded wiring, expect an easy 200rwkw with a tune) SUSPENSION Front: - GTS2 front struts with factory adjustable tops, Bilstein inserts (tested before install 1 month ago), Lovells springs. - Whiteline strut brace - completely overhauled hubs, new bearings, seals etc, genuine parts. Rear: - HR31 JIC Gold coilovers in rear. Excellent condition, no-knocking. - Noltec Adjustable Panhard rod. - Car sits bang on 100mm from ground to lowest point on front-pipe, can go lower with the coilovers if desired. BRAKES Front: - R34 4-spot callipers, 310mm rotors (redrilled and skimmed, only 1mm of wear) - Bendix Ultimate pads - Parts installed as new 3 months ago Rear: - Completely reconditioned rear callipers - RDA slotted rotors, plenty of meat left on them. - Ferodo Green pads - Parts installed as new 3 weeks ago WHEELS - 18X8, 18x9 Work Euroline Type M rims +38 offset, no rash, mint condition, personally imported. - Dunlop Lemans LM703 Digi-Tyre 235/40/ZR18 fronts (90%) and rears (85%), stretched tyres, sit perfect to the guard, no scrubbing. - 25mm bolt on spacers front, 20mm rear. - Also includes stock 4xTi rims mint condition, tyres incl. EXTERIOR - Full respray in Sept 05, 2005 Audi Aurora blue pearl (over 300 parts to this paint, it is ridiculous, must be seen to be believed). Paint supplies alone worth 1.5k. Car is straight as a gun barrel. Have had it into the shop twice since the respray just to get small chips and nicks taken out, that’s how particular I am. - deleted/shaved rear boot lock - deleted/shaved aerial hole (internal electric aerial installed) - lipped gaurds front and rear - Import Coupe front bar - Import Coupe rear bar - Import GT autospoiler on custom brackets, motors working, using factory switch in cabin. - GTS-R lower ducts - Import electric folding mirrors, wired up in cabin. - Cut out front bar with black mesh - Import projector headlights, reconditioned and repainted. - HID 6000k low-beams, Phillips Crystal Vision globes high-beams, white LED parkers - R33 Nismo indicators clear - Import Tail lights and Garnish, mint condition. - Chrome pinstriping - darkest legal tint, double on the rear window - All chrome trims polished. INTERIOR - Nismo leather shifter - Stewart Warner 0-15psi boost gauge - VIPER top of the line 791XV 2-way remote alarm, many extras incl remote start, turbo timer etc. - Top of door trims plus A, B & C pillars re-trimmed in navy blue suede. - All factory Ti options, Cruise Control, Power windows, Trip Computer, Velour seats immac. STEREO - JVC Chameleon HU - iPod aux input jack in centre console Front: - Response Kevlar splits 6.5", hidden behind door trims, discreetly mounted tweeters, crossovers mounted in glove box. - Sound deadened doors, both inside and outside skins. Rear: - Pioneer 3-way 6" rears - Sound deadened Parcel shelf and C-Pillars Boot: - 2x12" JL Audio 12W04 subs in carpeted box. - 1520 WRMS worth of amplifiers. (2 x Response Amps, 4x130WRMS and 2x380WRMS sub amp) - gold plated terminal RCAs, shielded, used throughout. - 2GA wiring from front into 4GA wiring in rear, Gold plated Terminals, Stinger distribution block with LED display. - Full Stinger sound deadening in boot (boot floor, sides, suspension struts, back of seats, boot lid). - Complete MDF install, incl. false floor, side boards, and rear beauty-board. All carpeted. Featuring stainless-steel halogen down-lights powered off relays. Looks a million bucks with heaps of useable space. (Stereo is designed for SQL. Over $600 worth of sound deadening has been installed. Bass will shake the rear view mirror loose inside the car, but with the windows up, you can’t hear it outside the car, it’s the way I wanted it. If you want to show off, fold the seats down, put the windows down and doof your head off). Total replacement value of stereo is $2k plus. Contact Details: Mat, via PM. Other Comments: I have got a job offer in the States starting mid-year, don’t know if/when I will be back, so as much as I’d like to store it and keep it, it makes no sense. Price is very reasonable and reasonably firm. Over 25k has gone into this car. If I sell it for any less, then I’m losing more than I’m getting back. The car in person sells itself, but I will honestly answer any questions anyone has. I have owned the car for four years. And although it has gone through a massive transformation, it has not once missed a beat. Very reliable, very good power, handles like a go kart and snaps heads like a supermodel for all the right reasons. It is tight as a drum, and I have chased down every rattle and squeak and it is very quiet inside the car. And even though I am biased, I doubt you will find a better overall example. I have put less than 10,00k’s on it in 4 years, and the low k’s are clearly evident in the overall condition of the car, especially the interior. It lives in a lockup garage and washed weekly. Car was not thrashed and abused –I’m a soft-cock behind the wheel and those of you who know me will agree. Known issues: minimal. If I were keeping it I would do something about the diff, as it is still a single spinner. Fine for n/a driving, but turbo used to present some traction issues. Spool/locker/LSD – up to you. 2nd gear synchro can get over-run if you get brutal on it, but other than that fine. And that is literally all. If I could fault it, I would have already fixed it. Not a cent to spend, and I’m dead serious. I’m happy to show the car to genuinely interested parties, but I won’t tolerate time wasters, tyre-kickers or test-pilots.

it really depends on how long the car spends on the dyno and how much power u want him to go searching for. i'd expect min of 100 an hour, and probably 2 hours dyno time for a relatively simple tune. i really dont think he's going to be able to do a whole lot with the tune, i'd be exepcting power figures of abour 110-115rwkw.

hahah, yeh like 30%. holden's HSV's would be pushing 200 at the wheels from the factory if that. 300rwkw is faaaaast, and not something i'd want to be thrown the keys to short of an intensive driver training course!

yeh remember that its going to the US, and how MASSIVE the import modding scene has got over there in the last 5-10 years (after Fast and Furious albeit...haha). But there are some huge skunk-works over there that will have vast amounts of cash to throw at R&D. Stillen, Titan (once they get over supras), AEM, etc etc....maybe even traditionalist american iron companies like lingenfelter (sp) or callaway might even get involved. i think the scene will diversify a lot given that its no longer arriving in these markets as a grey import. another thought i had is that it appears that, unlike nearly all nissans - next to nothing will be interchangeable.

i reckon the fact that there is a 3 year warranty which is very comprehensive (eg free wheel alignments every month etc) will stop people from modding a lot of them....for now....and u got to remember also, that only the bigger tuning houses will be able to afford to fabricate stuff to suit them - so expect parts to be friggn expensive until the market catches up. i guess it might be worth considering the popularity and proliferation of twin turbo kits for the 350Z....or lack there of... i dunno, its going to take a while for the wrench heads to get around all the mod-cons and computer trickery. it will take time. u gotta remember tho that no car manufacturer who spends so much time and money designing a car builds it with the basic acceptance that it 'could be made better'. agreed that factory warranty softens the edge a bit, but jeez...this car is gonna be one wild weapon straight off the production line.

price drop. $175 firm.

won't go that low - but i'm open to offers. 150 is well below cost price, not to mention whatever the price is worth for the inconvenience of having to wait for it to arrive from japan. this thing is brand spankin - took it out to look at it, then put it back in and its sat there ever since. much better than sard, and i wouldnt even go near a malpassi.

Item: Nismo Universal Fitment Fuel Pressure Regulator & 8mm Fuel Rail Adapter Age: BRAND NEW Condition: Still in box/plastic/with instructions (in jap) Price: $200 for both (the adapter is useless without the rail and vice versa) To Fit: all nissan motors Location: Melb VIC Contact: via PM Comments: bought this from Nengun about a year ago, waited for ever for it to arrive, and in the mean time went with a different setup. perfect for bumping your rail pressure to squeeze those extra rwkws out of your injectors. cheers guys. Part no's 22670-RR710 & 22672-RR710

i'm also keen to see pics of your gear boot and any tips u have on making that, cos i'm doing my own also

looks good mate. just a word of caution tho, with yoru sub boxes there, make sure they are secured very tightly to the floor and kept off the rear quarter skin. as a fellow 31 owner, i have seen, and been the victim of objects being pushed against the panel from the inside and pushing dents out when going round corners. its a nasty result. otherwise, good work! i'm currently working on my own boot setup. where did you get your carpet?? i just bought 60 bucks of auto carpet but they only had a dark grey colour - would have preferred light grey....but oh well.

first thing u need to establish is if the paint has cracked or creased at any point in the dent. if it has, then its panel beating time. u can't leave the paint cracked, it'll let water in underneath, bubble, rust and then flake off. if its not cracked then u are a chance at paintless repair. it all comes down to how malleable the metal is. different parts of the panel have different 'tensions'. think of a coke can - if u put a dent in the side its easy to 'pop' it out - cos this part of the metal has a lot of natural tension, it 'wants' to pop back out. but put one in the edge near the ends tho, and its very difficult. so that being said, the shallow dents should be a breeze. the one on the crease, is going to bemore difficult. they might be able to get most of it out, but you will probably be still left with an indent, possibly a crease line. i got some shallow dents in my 1/4 panel popped out, cost 110 bucks. the more dents the cheaper it is. i'd say about 200-250 for the job you're showing me. it'll just be a matter of how picky ur mate is. he might not be happy with the end result, in which case, its panel beating time.

firstly, did the wheels arrive with the tyres fitted and balanced? tempe isnt exactly recognised for quality rims and tyres. an imbalance could be enough to upset things to the point of loosening the nuts. secondly, u say u had to 'improvise' with tightening the studs. that to me says, u did a half assed job instead of going out and buying the correct size socket fitting for 5 bucks. ur lucky you didnt round off the nuts half way onto the stud, then you would be in all sorts of shit. if u were using an incorrect fitting, then you probably never had enough torque on the nuts to get them tight enough. thirdly, the nuts on the spacers also have to be on tight as buggery. any play, and like u have noted, the rim will gradually work its way off. fourth, spacers aren't the problem. they can cause imbalances yes - but plenty of people run them, myself included, and so long as u exercise a bit of caution they are perfectly fine to live with. for example, when i take a wheel off, i put it back on, drive for a few minutes, get out, and retighten. 9/10 times they need a bit more tightening after the initial tighten. fifth, tempe may have said they fit, but the fact they sent you spacers leads me to believe that they knew they wouldnt, or that they advised you that its 'possible' they wouldnt. 5 mins of research on this site before you bought your rims would have told you the exact offset necessary. sixth, dont buy new from tempe. buy second hand jap rims from a forum or an importer. better quality, better looking, more value, bulk respect.

if u can't take a screw driver and put 4 screws in then u probably shouldnt be driving a modded car. seriously. i understand the principle, but jeez....for the headaches it is clearly causing you, just do it yourself, or get a mate with half a clue.

hey guys, im just doing this conversion onto an R31 skyline atm. however, i have it bolted up on one side and it appears that the caliper is not entirely centerd over the rotor. R32/33 brake upgrades are quite common on 31's and usually require no washers to space the rotor out - so i assume if it WAS necessary to space the rotor out then you guys would have run into the same problem. is this the case?? if not, it might explain this vibrating you're talking about as the rear pad is contacting much earlier than the front.

i wouldnt drill if i were you. i had this problem in my headlights, it was frustrating as all hell. it happened whenever i washed the car or left it in the rain. basically the water is leaking in somewhere, contained in a warmed environment (like a greenhouse inside the headlight), and condensation results. the reality is that it will continue to happen, because water always gets into a leak point whenver its around. drilling a hole wont do anything, its just a bandaid. it will allow some of the water to drain over time, but not all. it will also allow dust in, so that when the light is damp, road dust will find its way in (just like water, its very sneaky), it wil cloud the headlight over time and make it look shit. no amount of plastic polish will help, cos the grime will be on the inside, not the outside. only way to truly fix it is to take the headlight apart, clean it thoroughly, and reseal it. there is a guide on this forum about how to seperate the lights using an oven. resealing them, the best stuff to use is sikaflex, comes in a black tube, from any auto/hardware store. i did it, it was messy and time consuming, but the end result is 100%

you can motec ecu's that have a launch control function. they can also run anti-lag too. but if you need to ask how much u can't afford. ;-)

email sent, cheers mate.

E.O.I : Make / Model / Year: S3 1988 Skyline Ti turbo (VIP LOOK) Location: Melbourne, Vic Price: 14,000 ballpark Kilometers: 121,500km Transmission type: 5sp manual Engine: RB30e+T Colour: 2006 Audi Aurora Blue Pearl Features: all luxury options. electric windows, trip computer, cruise control, pimp crushed velour seats. Modifications: ENGINE: - RB30ET - VLT injectors, newly reconditioned when installed - turbo in mint condition, zero shaft play or float. can inspect for yourself off the car. - Darkhalf ECU - 3" exhaust, hi-flo cat, Lukey muffler, with twin 3" dump pipes – very deep bassy note, but not overly loud. - 600x300 cooler - 2.5-2.75” cooler piping by ExhaustWorx, comes with two induction configurations, high mounted K&N filter, or sik dose pipe. - Quality Hybrid Silicon hoses throughout - PWR custom catch can - 5 spd Manual conversion - HD Exedy sports extreme clutch - 170rwkw @ 9psi - KA24 T/B with polished manifold (uninstalled) - power is being held back by fuel pump, throw an 040 in and crack 200rwkw. UNDERNEATH - HR31 JIC Gold coilovers, height and camber adjust. Good condition. No knocking. - HR31 rotors and calipers - Whiteline Strut brace - also included, R34 GT-t calipers and rotors. These are the big boys, 310mm discs (bigger than 32 GT-R and 33 GTS-t rotors), have been redrilled and skimmed. Comes with brand new bendix ultimate pads. EXTERIOR - Full respray in Sept 05, 2005 Audi Aurora blue pearl (over 300 parts to this paint, it is ridiculous, must be seen to be believed) - Coupe front bar - Coupe rear bar - GT autospoiler on custom brackets - GTS-R lower ducts - import electric folding mirrors - cut out front bar with black mesh - Import projector headlights (Phillips Crystal Vision globes, white LED parkers) - LED driving lights - R33 Nismo indicators - deleted/shaved rear boot lock - deleted/shaved aerial hole - lipped gaurds front and rear - chrome pinstriping - darkest legal tint, double on the rear window - car is straight as a gun barrel. Have had it into the shop twice since the respray just to get small chips and nicks taken out, that’s how particular I am. ROLLING STOCK - 18X8, 18x9 Work Ryver Touring rims +38 offset - Bidgestone Potenza 235/40/ZR18 fronts, Pirelli P-Zero Rosso 285/30/ZR18 rears - 25mm bolt on spacers, front - tyres are 70%-80% F/R - Also includes stock Ti rims, mint condition. INTERIOR - Nismo leather shifter - Stewart Warner 0-15psi boost gauge - JVC chameleon HU - iPod aux input jack in center console - Response Kevlar splits 6.5", pioneer 6" rears, 2x12" JL audio subs, Response 4X130WRMS amp - sound deadened front doors – both skins. - VIPER top of the line 791XV 2-way remote alarm, many extras. Roadworthy Certificate: none at this stage. Can be arranged, but this will be discussed with buyer. Registered: yes – july-07 Accident History: front quarter hit, cosmetic damage only. Professionally repaired with genuine Nissan replacement panels. Ballpark Price: 14k Contact Details: Mat, via PM. Other Comments: Very hard decision to make. Records show over 23K has gone into this car. Unfortunately, I am moving into an inner city Melbourne suburb with no off street parking – I cannot afford to risk leaving this car on the street at night, it has never spent a night outside a lock-up garage as I am extremely overprotective of it. Would rather it go to a good home than slowly get run down into neglect, or carelessly vandalised by some junkie. The car in person sells itself, but I will honestly answer any questions anyone has. I have owned the car for four years. And although it has gone through a massive transformation, it has not once missed a beat. Very reliable, very good power, handles like a go kart and snaps heads like a supermodel. I have put less than 10,00k’s on it in 4 years, and the low k’s are clearly evident in the overall condition of the car, especially the interior. Car was used to get me from work and back once a week, 50k round trip on the ring road – and not much else. Lives in a lockup garage under a car cover and washed weekly. Car was not abused, I’m a soft-cock behind the wheel and those of you who know me will agree. Car at this stage has not got any of the turbo gear on. Car was turbo’d for about 3,000ks and pulled very strong and cleanly. It is currently in n/a spec with extractors following a recent EPA appointment. Turbo gear will be left off until after sale to make transfer of ownership easier – new owner won’t have to worry about VicRoads taking issue with the turbo when you register it. But everything that is listed above is included in the sale. A weekend of work with the spanners will have the car at exactly the same specs as you see above - i can do this work if it means making a sale. Known issues: minimal. If I were keeping it I would do something about the diff, as it is still a single spinner. Fine for n/a driving, and known to twin up in a straight line - but turbo used to present some traction issues. Spool/locker/LSD – up to you. I would also invest in 1-piece tailshaft, as the current one is lashing a bit. This is probably due to a combination of ride height and the turbo giving it a bit more to think about. 2nd gear synchro can get over-run if you are lashing it, but other than that fine. Wiper-bottle leaks. And that is literally all. This is E.O.I – please do so. I am doing this to try and sort the peanuts from the shit. No time wasters and no tyre-kickers. Please keep it on topic. Cheers>MAT pics below and more pics here: http://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?topic=40916.0

tomy kaira is a jap tuning house, they turn out specific model cars with engine tuning, interior and body kit enhancements - mostly concerned with skylines. those rims look very similar to the ones that came on the tommy kaira M30 skyline, which was a HR31 coupe. are they four stud rims? if so, i'd say thats what they're off.

haha i just did my business law exam on monday - caveat emptor = buyer beware!! yeah, i would be keeping my money in australia. think of it like this: money potentially lost > money potentially saved