SMOKEYV35

lot of people put R34 coilovers in and find that the back end is a bit soft - because of all the extra weight over the rear suspension that the wagon has over a sedan/coupe. mine has got GT-R coilovers in it, but with higher spring rates in the back and i reckon it handles and rides pretty nice. i can find out toinght what the spring rates are for you, but from memory they are 12kg.

no idea on the front bar/light removal. would be interested to know tho! as for straight swap, do you have the ballasts for the xenon globes? should just have to plug the loom into those.

bump. tyres are worth $1200 with receipts? price seems cheap to me?

yer which is unfortunate - if it were 'levelling system' then the factory electronic adjustment would be sweet! self cleaning system would be an issue though....

the driveline is always engaged in an auto, the momentum of the drivetrain keeps the engine turning over - it won't stall. it might overfuel, but it won't be any worse than on a manual which drops revs dramatically when you snap throttle shut and clutch out which drops revs to idle speed within a matter of milliseconds. i dont disagree that atmospheric BOV's cause spikes in AFM readings - i have always run plumb backs. my disagreement was that 'they are more likely to make an auto stall' not withstanding the fact, that i you read his statement closely, he says 'because the gears are not constantly meshed'.......which is the exact opposite of how an automatic transmission works anyway. the car is in D - the gears are engaged with the torque converter acting as cushion. and there is nothing wrong with the stock bosch BOV's from nissan. i had twin bosch GT-R bov's setup on my 30ET - which are proven to hold 32psi and nearly20 years old. proven performers. so you keep your 'technical advice' scorecard, i'll keep mine.

happy to sell for cash and buy my own GT-R's.......just would require a patient buyer while i sourced replacement wheels. looking for around the $1400 mark neg?

spend the money and fix it, you will spend more on the VL +conversion and have a far far worse car with little to no resale value and a whole host of reigstration and insurance problems. best case scenario, it costs $900 bucks to fix the stagea - so be it, that is the cost of minimum excess payment with just cars (for example) anyway - even if you DID have insurance you'd be up for that. worst case, its a few thousand. at least you have no insurance claim, not on the WOVR, and a great car that you know back on the road. OR you buy a VL, even a fairly crappy one will be 1500-2k. conversion you're looking at a nistune or darkhalf board to run it, going to have to get a different sump and gearbox as your AWD stuff won't fit. rewiring ecu. tail shaft modification. brake upgrade, and bigger wheels and tyres for to clear them, for insurance and rego. custom exhaust to plumb it all up, and that's not even starting on suspension improvements to stop it handling like a boat. thats already 5-6k right there, and at the end of the day you'll have a crappy VL. seriously, its a no brainer. start scavenging for parts and fix that sucker.

who fed you that line? anyway, it will give you no advantages over your stock BOV other than sound. i have a GReddy plumbed back and it is plenty loud enough.

ecu reset, just pull the negative lead off the battery - depress the brake pedal a few times to drain any residual power - leave it a few minutes then reconnect the battery lead. if it still throws codes, then you will have to start chasing the problem. i'd be trying to think of a cause and effect scenario - so, the fact that they were under the car working on the exhaust - i'd be thinking of things under the car - like maybe they've knocked a plug loose in the side of the trans?

[check hose clamps, sometimes they appear to be fine while the motor is at idle, but once under boost they can let boost leak past. have you got an a/m BOV? could also be leaking when its coming on boost. try tightening it up.

congrats to simon (methamphetamachine?), an awesome feature on an awesome website - you really put forward a sensational example of the car for the world to see! http://speedhunters.com/archive/2010/11/11...tech-260rs.aspx

can you hear it clicking on and off rapidly? you can always try an ECU reset.

all cars driven on australian roads need to apply with ADR's - that is why when non-domestic market vehicles go to be registered that must pass through 'compliancing'. a RWC is state based yes, but they inspect the vehicle from a perspective that it complies with ADR's as well as state government legislation, as each state has their own finnicky little interpretations of the rules. For example, for ride height, Vic is 100mm at the lowest point of the vehicle, where as SA has some vehicle specific centre of the hub to gaurd measurement to determine legal ride height. basically, a RWC cert just says 'yes it complies with ADRs, yes it is safe, and yes it is legal to be on the road'.

check the 4WD fuse in the engine bay, sounds like it's behaving exactly like it..... red hot transfer case is not good!

have you tried to pass and failed? if not, i'd just have a go at getting through with them - and if they knock you back, then we'll cross that bridge. won't cost you any more and you won't get in trouble. to get them running on halogen globes you need to bypass the ballast, so pick up the wiring behind the ballasts, and run new wiring into the back of the new globes. you could do it very temporarily by just splicing some wire connectors onto the stock wiring and straight onto the back of a globe, secure it in the headlight housing by whatever means, blu-tack etc - pass the RWC and then put the original globes back in. that'd be what i would do.

yeh, not RWC - and will cop you a defect notice if you get a particularly friend cunstable pull you over. i've still got the factory Xenon's in my C34 - and i love them - the cutoff is nowhere near as sharp as a car with a focused projector lens - but its not bad. i'm so glad the compliance people didn't hack up the wiring and housings - i've heard nightmare stories. my next mod is going to be 4000k HID's in the high beams run off relays, and i'm going to mount the fog lights in the outer openings on the Dayz front bar and fit those with 4000k globes. just checked theretrofitsource - 90 bucks for top of the line phillips globes - money well spent IMHO!

you can buy some cheap replacement globes off ebay. size wise you need to look for D2S or D2R - but the quality will be suspect - you'll get what you pay for. given that the C34 especially does not have a projector lens setup, but instead a reflector bowl - things like bulb integrity and shape are going to be crucial to giving an accurate light output that doesn't spray out in the wrong directions. so if i were looking at getting some replacements, i'd go to www.theretrofitsource.com and buy some of their morimoto globes, or even better, their phillips globes. you'll pay a bit more, but nowhere near manufacturer prices, for better than factory globes. may as well strike with the USD is on your side also! i've ordered a lot of stuff from these guys and they are excellent to deal with and the postage is fast. temperature wise, your best bet is a 5300k globe. it gives the strongest output and a pure white light. factory globes will be around 4300k, but if they are the original globes, then the colour will have shifted over time and can easily get above 7000k.....which only leads to a weak output and a overly purple tinge. go 5300k and you'll think someone has turned on the sun!

I have a set of Axis Hiro wheels in gunmetal grey with polished lip. Looking to swap for R34 GT-R rims only (must be good condition, minimal rash, with 4 centre caps). Cash adjustment possible. SPECS: 19X8.5 +20 19/235/35 ZR Kumho Ecsta SP tyres, 80% 99% condition, only some very light rash on one wheel, other than that they look brand new. Have purchase receipts. Wheels located in Southbank, Melbourne. Needs to be a direct swap as I don’t have stock wheels to roll on. Contact via PM or on 0438 32O 369 Car will be at SAU show’n’shine on Sunday.

what are the AFR's? sounds pretty low to me. mine makes 205awkw on 11psi.......and it's an RB25det oh and in other helpful info, the GT-R injectors are 440cc and should be good for 300kw

wow, is that all these are worth in the market place?

sounds like you're in a similar place to where i was a few months ago. between legnums and the stagea, it didn't take me long to recognise the stagea as the smart option. just from the perspective of online support through forums, RB interchangability of parts, good aftermarket support, and finally - a lot easier to work on. a transversely mounted v6 twin turbo is not going to be a fun place to get your hands dirty......

great info there, kidafa. i have got a some 300V chrono waiting to go in, and i think now i'll do all the other fluids at the same time. i get huge satisfaction out of knowing my car has the best protection, and even more so knowing that i've done it myself and know 100% that it a) actually HAS been done and b) done right. and really, any car enthusiast should be comfortable doing fluid changes, or at least prepared to have a go - i don't think that is a job for a mechanic unless you are truly too busy, or have no tools or suitable space to have a crack yourself. also, if anyone wants nissan genuine filters you can get them from justjap for around the same price as you'll pay for a Ryco through a retailer. www.justjap.com sticky this into the DIY section or add to the existing thread??

anyone got any input on this for manuals? i have a lot of difficult launching mine hard, granted i've only tried it 3 or 4 times in the month since i've owned it - but basically - lots of revs (4k est), drop the clutch pretty hard, it just bogs down. - lots of revs (4k est), slip the clutch, and it takes off but if i slip it too much, it heats up something shocking and once or twice it actually hits second gear and then just slips like crazy. the smell is terrible. i might need to look at a new clutch eventually, the car is making 200awkw on the stock clutch and holding under most circumstances, but it just doesnt feel that quick and not being able to get it off the line doesnt help! i really don't like hurting the car, but with the AWD system, it just seems like it's a given if you want to launch at revs.

is it a full dry carbon bonnet? or carbon layed over fiberglass? does it have a latch for the stock hood latch? is that a crack near the washer jet?

wow, hard to hold a candle to darren's car - it looks immac, and mean as in action! claybarred the car and hand polished and waxed it on saturday. massive effort, but the paint is like silk now. here are a few pics i took of mine yesterday while i was waiting to pick up the missus - i'll have to go back there with something better than a iphone one day.