SMOKEYV35

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lads, got a set of pearl white genuine Dayz sideskirts for sale to suit S2 Stagea. these are in great condition, from memory, no scratches whatsoever. All clips in place. There are 4 pieces in total. They are currently living under my parents house gathering dust so no actualy photos, but illustrative photos below. Looking for $350 ONO pick up in Melb or door to door courier can be arranged by buyer. PM me if interested.

car went to chasers on saturday to get the emanage back in. had a slight missfire with the emanage in but have been assured its fine and made 180awkw so everything appears to be in order! car pull so much stronger and cleanly now. love it.

im happy to drop them at any depot in melbourne metro area. lots of places will do online quotes.

i have shipped rims to ACT for around 100 bucks before - cheapest way i have found is via bus freight. get a quote through greyhoundbus.com.au and i can drop them at their depot for you. (the rims i shipped to ACT were big b@stards too - 19X10 ViP style rims with rubber, so it might be even cheaper again).

i'd say a second hand brand name controller would be as risky as buying a no name controller......and when it comes down to it, boost regulation is not something you want to be running the risk of. and to the guy running a turbotech at 18psi - probably more to do with wastegate spike than anything. its a lot to be running on an internally gated turbo and to expect a manual controller to be able to handle.

offers? for those who aren't aware - these are PERFECT offsets for an M35 and you need at least 19s to fill the gaurds on them.

Bump. offers?

didnt end up wiring them up. i live in an apartment building so body corporate forbids working on cars in the garage.....so never managed to get round to it. but your choices are - use the factory loom if present, and find out which wire is the trigger wire. i'm guessing that because you can only switch on either the front bar lights, or the driving lights using the rocker switch - one of them gets grounded and the other becomes open. so that wire between the two is probably a ground wire. so get the ground wire off the front bar lights, and splice it into the ground wire on your CIBIEs. if that doesnt work - try splicing the power wires together. other option is to run a relay harness as per my other thread. get a HB3 specific one and it will be plug'n'play. that way you can have all lights on if needed. powahhh!

my advice would be just to do your own wiring - use the factory switch to run a relay. you can buy pre-made relay harnesses off the net like this, very cheap, and quality is better than you could make yourself using bought parts. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/H1-H3-HID-Xenon-Relay-Wire-Wiring-Harness-Fuse-49-/250740557968?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a614d4890

do not want. not even for the WTF novelty.

yer exactly. took a few runs on the backroads at night to get the gain set up properly. also got 6 settings, so you can put it down to stock boost if you want to save fuel or lend your car to someone. other thing i like about it that its pretty non-descript. i have mine mounted in the center console and it's virtually undetectable - just looks like a black screen with the car switched off - could come in handy for roadside inspections.

nah mate not quite. thats just some jap pic - has masa gaurds and 34 front. this one is mine

if your mod's are going to require you to drop the AFM, or you expect to exceed the resolution of the standard AFM then i'd go for standalone management. i have an emanage ultimate, but only because its what i got with the car. if i were doing it from scratch i'd get a nistune purely for the legality side. it looks like a stock ecu, so as far as they're concerned it is a stock ecu. just one less thing to worry about.

these are sold pending clearing of funds.

only owned a turbotech - which never failed me. and a gizzmo MSBCII - bit fiddly to setup if you're not doing it on a dyno (but so are all EBC's) but i like it because it reads in PSI.

Hi guys, my rims are for sale. perfect fitment on a stagea esp M35 and C34 auto. (Have 15mm spacers for the rears if your car is C34 Manual and you want that hella flush fitment. fronts are spot on.) Price: $1400 with tyres $750 without tyres pickup and viewing Southbank Melbourne VIC contact via PM. link to FS thread w/pics here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/343775-swap-axis-hiro-19s-for-r34-gt-rs/page__p__5745011__fromsearch__1#entry5745011

yes. wheels still for sale, with or without tyres. 1400 = with tyres 750 = without tyres will throw in the 15mm spacers if required.

Bump.

ewww duck bills...... ah well, if it is as you say 'a drift hack' then we can't be too previous now can we! ride height looks great tho. how did the gaurds roll? did they dimple at all or were they pretty workable? may have to do my rears soon.....

typical bower-bird syndrome - people get bored with the car and just keep adding on more and more trinkets thinking it is making it a better car. it's tough as nails on the outside, i even like the rear wing. but for me, interiors that are as close to stock as possible are best - hidden controllers, subtle gague placement etc. i'd be embarassed to take passengers if i had that many gauges.

well its not been a common complaint as far as i know, and as you said, i doubt they'd let the car go out if it had that problem. what about your wipers? are they different to stock?

so thats +1 for noisier WITH. +1 for noisier WITHOUT. and +1 for no differnce at all....... hmm, some inconsistencies in results! hahahah but seriously, check your windscreen seals, and your window seals. do you have a sunroof? make sure its closing properly. if its not fully closed there might be an edge on the rear that catches the wind.

50psi!? that is ridiculous. and why would you run it higher if you're lashing it? should be running it lower if anything. otherwise it just turns into a roller skate - you will get better grip with lower pressure, plus it will allow for expansion of the air as the increased heat levels build. only people i know who run those pressures are the VIP guys who run super stretched tyres and huge camber - helps prolong tyre life and keeps the tyre seated on the bead.

i like that test. but yep, i run 38 front and rear - tested when cold. good investment is a digital pressure gauge. dont trust the ones at the servos. i check pressures weekly. car feels nicer and less jittery over low speed bumps when the pressure is down around 36 (which is what most tyre places will reccommend) but i reun a slightly higher pressure to protect the wheels, and to counter some of the camber wear by rounding the center of the contact patch.