SMOKEYV35

03 to mid-06 lights - flat face - round reverse light - halogen light for running light - leds in circle for brake - leds closest to boot lid are 4,4,4 pattern mid 06+ lights - they have 'recessed' areas over the lights - stove top design like R34' - not flat. - square reverse light as stated - led running lights in the circle - led brake lights - led's closest to bootlid are a 3,4,5 pattern - boot release button on LHS light

Best I can do. Unless you've got a manual or an auto with 'sport package' then only way you'll know is by jacking it up and throwing it in nuetral. Open diff's can twin up in a straight line though - my R31 had an open diff, and from a standstill it would light up both - have videos from the drags to show it. Corners were a different matter though.......single peggers all the way!

I don't think any colour is going to suit it better than black - just looks right. from your suggestions you're thinking of sticking to something pretty conservative - maybe a champagne colour? Darker silver with a heavy metal flake? What about hammercoat finish in gunmetal grey? otherwise - if you're the kind of person who want to stand out from the crowd, and if you're going to the trouble of repainting you may as well right - what about a dark green/jade colour with lots of blue and gold metallic in it. Really is entirely up to you. I will point out though, having just been through the pricing process on my Enkei RPF1s - shadow chroming will cost around double what any standard paint process will cost.

because you touch yourself at night.

sounds like a parasitic drain - I had the exact same prob - and as Terry said, alarm was the culprit. It was a good brand alarm - top of the line VIPER - but had been installed by a hack. He'd wired up a relay backwards so that when the alarm was armed it was causing a drain on the battery. it's easy for an auto elec to diagnose the drain - they just put a multimeter across the battery with the car switched off and watch for a gradual drop in voltage. can do it yourself if you've got a multi. from there it's a matter of chasing the drain - but with your alarm symptoms i'd say you've already identified it.

at that price I think you're on the right track with an s14 or an r33. both are in your budget, both have lots of parts availability and aftermarket options, and both have large communities with lots of 'know how'. my advice would be buy the best stock car you can for your budget and then mod it as you can afford it. Too many guys out there who want the car for the same reasons you do! lol. beyond that - if you want a straight line car, go the R33 - like you said, the engines are tried and trued, and the transmissions take a beating. do your basic intake and exhaust mods and with some boost you'll see 200rwkw no worries - from there a bigger turbo will get you that 'shove in the back' you're looking for. if you live in built up areas - i'd go for something like this because the traffic light GP is about the only time you'll get to enjoy the car's performance. if you're more about twisties, doing some drift days and learning to drive a car to it's abilities etc - then i'd go the S-chassis. again - good reliable motors - pretty easy to get power out of - but lots of affordable suspension tuning options that will be fun to play with and see the rewards on the track or the twisties if you live in an area where they're quiet and accessible. either way - i don't think you'd be overly disappointed with one or the other. It probably comes down to which you prefer the look of (IMO S14B over R33) or which you prefer the sound of (IMO RB over SR). Keep looking for both, and just buy the one that feels right.

copy pasted this from another forum: 2003 sedans didn't have an option for VLSD 2004-2006 sedans had a sport package option which came with VLSD 2007 sport sedans have VLSD, base & journey have ABLS 2003-2004 coupes had VSLD if it was a Performance Wheel and Tire package option, which meant 18" wheels auto or manual. 2005-2007 coupes only those with the Sport Suspension Package had VSLD *The 18" wheel option for 05/06 is only that, wheels and tires VLSD became part of the Sport Tuned Suspension package for 05/06*

it's hard to beat. Drama goes on from there to say 'i once owned an italian car, beautiful piece of machinery' - to which turtle points out 'drama, you drove a fckn FIAT - and they reposessed it when you couldn't make the repaymentst'. Back O/T - I'm still kind of in a 'next car' phase - I like the idea of a V but I could change my mind tomorrow. My problem is i want ALL teh cars....and i keep buying them and selling them 6 months later. I tell my girl that i break even but i must surely be losing. And every car i've had has been a bit outside the box - I could never drive something 'common' likea S15 or an Evo. I'm just looking for the right balance of quick without being too thirsty and unreliable, good looking without being too impractical/onboxious/cop bait - ability to be daily driven and live on the street every now and then without getting stolen - and all at the right price. Some cars on my bucket list to own though include: - BMW e46 M3 SMG - has to be estoril blue - A 32/33/34 GT-R- just to have done it - late 60's 280se Merc - stock looking but on digital air suspension. - BMW X5 4.8is - Black on Black with a straight obnoxious exhuast and no plates 'PANZER' - Another Lexus LS - such solid cars - R31 GTS coupe - back to my roots This will all have to wait until i buy a house though - trade off with gf is no more cars until we buy a house - but when we do i'm allowed to buy a project car.

it blows my mind how this has got to 3 pages. i'll do the cliff notes/summary: - guy buys cheap tyres. tyres slip. guy is baffled as to why. tyres wear off top layer of silica/he drops pressure to make them slop around and force them to grip/car learns new rolling diameter/earth changes axis of rotation. tyres grip for now. - applied theory: when it comes to tyres, picture a triangle and at each corner you have one of the following variables - cheap, long life, high performance - you can only have two at a time. - lesson. you get what you pay for, so if you don't pay much don't expect much. /thread

LOL. reminds me of Johnny Drama in Entourage when Vince is looking to buy the Rolls Royce. 'you don't buy a car like that bro, you LEASE it - that's why every broke deadbeat in this town has a 911'.

Yeh - it's always a risk - modifications point directly at an owner who is trying to get 'more' out of the stock package. Some do it because they love to thrash in which case you could just be buying someone elses problems But then some do it just for the love of the car and seeing the improvements that their hard work and research rewards them with in which case the car is often looked after better than a stock car because it gets whatever it needs. I guess speaking to the owner and getting a feel for which side of the fence they fall upon is the best insurance. I''m also a fan of 'built not bought' and i've only bought two cars that weren't stock as a rock - the rest I have done all the parts and the spanner work on myself. The only time my cars have ever been to a mechanic is for RWC. But i'm getting older, I have less time and energy for this stuff, and I live in a body corporate which prohibits working on cars - so buying something with the parts i want and the work already done has extra value to me. That being said, I won't overlook the condition of the car. It has to be mint. Normall i would agree that buying the cleanest stock car as a base will always yield the best overall results - but for my reasons above, i'm trying to skip a step....! Let me know if you spot any nice autos!

These guys did a mini within 2 hrs of release! http://www.macrumors.com/2012/11/02/ipad-mini-already-installed-in-car-dashboard/ The sell all the parts you need to DIY also, incl the moulded pans etc.

Was it the hose running to the wastegate actuator? If so - a restrictor in that line is often to help with spiking issues by controlling/dampening the flow of air to the actuator diaphragm. If its in the line leading off the solenoid, it's there to artificially increase boost. Either way, you can get rid of it and be better off - just watch your boost pressure after you're done to make sure it's hitting the same levels (as in not higher than target)

you could look into the inflatable jacks that 4x4's use. made for use in the bush on rough terrain where a jack won't work - they're just a heavy duty inflatable bag that you slide under the chassis rail, connect to a compressor or even to the exhaust outlet and it will pump up under the car and raise it up! the bag is only a few mm's high uninflated, so it would get under even the lowest car - plus they're light, and can be stowed in your spare wheel well. show me a trolley jack that you can do that with!

can you import those crossovers?? i hired one of those (Infiniti Fx45) when i was i was in the USA in 2009 - we drove it from LA to Vegas - 5 blokes with full luggage - and at one stage, on a closed section of road, we had it up to 140mph and it wanted to keep going. Very cool cars!

hey i'm just trying to get INTO a v! But if i were to look into a crystal ball i'd say a Mk6 Golf R

Whatever helps you sleep at night - but tyres are always going to be a 'get what you pay for' scenario up to a certain spend level. Btw - I've bought Achilles ATR in 19s (245 from 265 rear) on my BMW - and they were downright dangerous. Wet weather, pulling up to the lights the ABS would go nuts and the car would slip and shudder on only medium braking. In an emergency I'd give myself a slim chance. (Mind you, with a tread wear of 800 it shouldn't have been a surprise. Never again)

Just throwing a question out there for those who have made the decision either way before - do I buy something super clean, late model but stock as a rock - or buy something for a similar price that is a bit older, with mods that I would enviably do down the track ......

If its a new car to you and you don't know the service history - at this stage all you should worry about is doing an oil and filter change - spark plugs, and if there is no evidence of genuine km's, you might want to prepare to change the drive belts soon. Other than that preventative maintenance, if it aint broke don't fix it.

Yep -absolute lowest point, doesn't matter if structural or cosmetic. In my case it was the rubber deflectors that sat in front of the front wheels to push water or air away from the tyres - ridiculous. I had to get new tyres anyway so just went from a 40 series to a45 series profile and gained an instant 10mm. PASS.

i like 'spirited acceleration without loss of traction' - but i don't race anyone. it's far too easy for things to get over 30km'h above speed limit - and then i lose my car, my license, and most likely my job without a way to get there anymore. yes - victoria is a nanny state, it's out of control - but the rules are the rules and i don't see any point in testing them.

As they say - 'low is a lifestyle' - it's not for everyone. On the one hand, i find your post hilarious because your main concern is you mum. If that's the case, just tell her to mind her own business. Also, take control of your own finances ffs. You're 19 - you're a legal adult, act like one. Only thing that would change my stance on that is if your parents bought you your car.....which probably explains both previous points. In which case, toe the line and consider yourself spoilt. I got a $600 hand me down 1986 R31 Skyline. Which then got given to my brother. But on the other hand, I can see everyone else's point on the low thing too. I have had cars with as little as 40mm of clearance - it looked 'sick' - but the impracticalities were out of control. When i was young and dumb, the inconvenience of it all didn't really matter. Not being able to get into driveways, multi level carparks, or mcdonalds was a price i was happy to pay. Having to make my mates jump out so I could clear speedhumps was no biggie. But now, working full time and needing a reliable, legal car, with as few compromises as possible leads me to suggest you raise it and do away with the headaches. Case in point - my car that i'm selling is going for it's second RWC this week as it failed the first for being 5mm too low. I shit you not. 95mm clearance - FAIL.

http://www.bcracingwheels.com/ - not sure what happened to their website http://www.garasiaut...ls-is-here.html http://www.garasiaut...m/p/wheels.html but garasi auto can sell them to you - and he is based in melbs.

Can get some nice wheels in the american modular style that look great on V35's - DPE, Rotiform, VAD. BC Racing have also introduced a range of 3-piece wheels about 12 months ago - haven't actually seen a set in person but they look nice on ther website and pretty affordable too.

TBH - i've had fake rims and i've had expensive jap rims. The only real difference IMO is the real ones hurt a lot more when you inevitably bend/gutter them. I don't buy into the drama with all the shots of cracked cheap rims etc - so long as you stick to something relatively known - and don't go bouncing your car off ripple strips, then you should be fine. The Varrstoen's look good - I had a set of these on my Stagea in 19x9.5 - they were brand new so they looked great, and only a purist could spot the difference between legit BBS LM's and these. For the price of some second hand Jap rims in suitable sizes, you could probably buy the Varrstoen's new, put decent rubber on, and go halfway to getting a set of coilovers. Makes sense to me.\\ Might have to go to 20's though - the step lip makes them look smaller (probably because it's still only an 18" center).