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Posts posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu
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Budget: Try out a RB25DET turbo in your car with full exhaust & remap.. you'll be surprised what a big difference it can make...
injectors & larger turbo can come another day..
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One day (3 days ago) I decided that I needed to do an injector service, fair enough.. I dismantled the plenum, then fuel rail, then took off the injectors.... pretty straight forward right?
Took it down to a spare parts place to get them cleaned & flow tested... the guy told me your injectors were pretty dirty before and now are all good...
Took them home this afternoon, and then whacked everything back together and to my surprise, the car won't start....
Firstly...........I can breifly hear the fuel pump, pump then stop as in the fuel has no where to go... This never happened before...
Secondly.......My fuel filter popped off because of so much pressure...
This lead me to think that maybe the ECU was farked, so I poured petrol straight into the throttle body and the car started for a split second... so car still starts... narrowed it down to a fuel problem..
I have no idea, it's 11pm now and I'm so lost..... Help needed!!!! I checked all the injector wiring, its all in... I can't htink of anything else...
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When "yumcha" oil filters will do, most people would just pay $20 for a Ryco one
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Use the search button, might help you with your answers.
All BOV essentially do the same thing, the only reason why you should upgrade is when your stock one fails to operate efficiently i.e. when you wind up the boost.
I'm using a modded stock BOV and it works a treat.
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No one has even bothered to look into it.
You can convert your skyline to LPG and we'll just sit here and laugh..
It's just as bad as buying a Turbo vehicle and converting it to N/A...
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The funny thing is that my idle is pretty much perfect, but adjusting the ECU's fine adjustment screw does nothing at all, winding left or right does not affect my idle.. weird.
Is it because I'm using a remapped ECU? with the rev limiter taken out?
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check if the AFM plug is in properly..
if it's not connected properly the ECU will go into failsafe mode, not allowing you to rev is more than 3500rpm and cause the motor to run excessive rich
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I've got a S13 with a RB20DET in it as well ahahah..
and yeah, same problem....
I'm suspecting its the seals on my injectors, and when the motor is warm they expand causing no stray air to get in and run properly.
I've got big cold start issues as well, always have to put my foot all the way down to start the car, and the idle goes up and down and all this other crap.
I'm taking my injectors out, getting them cleaned and flow tested and the seals replaced this week. See how that goes, I'll keep you updated.
Gonna be a waste of a whole day =(
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great tutorial, helped me immensely in cleaning my aac valve on my r32 gts-t. two things i have noticed though, on my car you had to disconnect the TPS rather than the brown plug on the AAC valve to adjust the AAC idle as you would on an r33. secondly, did anyone else find it ridiculously hard to screw in the idle screw while adjusting the AAC valve idle? i dunno why but i got it down to about 900rpm and its pretty much stopped moving.
anyways thanks again dude great writeup!
If it was ridicuously hard to turn, probably the O-ring on the AAC Value screw is all dry and crumbling. Time to replace that O-ring.
When I took out my AAC value, I removed the screw, the Solenoid, the piston and spring inside and gave it a good clean with carby cleaner. Put it all back together using carby cleaner as a lubricant and replaced the old tired O-ring. Cost my $0.50 for the O-ring.
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are your fans both on the same side? eg driver's side?
Yup, can't really mount them in the middle, will hit the motor... (RB20DET in a 180SX)
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I'm running a RB20DET in my 180SX, don't have any overheating problems.
I've got a twin 13" fan setup.
- One in front of the condenser pushing air in
- One at the back of the radiator sucking air out
as per the Craig Davies diagram, works a treat....
Front of Car | FAN | -->> ||Condenser||Radiator|| -->> | FAN | -->>
With the A/C running on a hot day, I've never seen any overheating problems, but then again in summer I only run stock boost.
Hope that helps...
Cheers,
Johnny
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Recommended seller, his a top bloke.. I recently bought his RB20DET 180SX off him just last Friday.
His genuine bloke, showed me all the things that were wrong with the car and hid nothing... thats honesty and highly respected..
All the best!
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It's my new car now.... hahaha
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Bump, just changed:
- 2x Shift solenoids
- Transmission Oil filter
- Transmission Oil
- Transmission Sump Gasket
Proof: http://www.thermactor.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11118
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PRICE DROP TO $2700
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I really want a R33 S2, but I'm broke now.... But I would settle for a S1.5 or even buy a damaged S2 and fix it to save money.
As for Quinny, if he had accepted my offer before, I would have been a skyline owner.
Its got the Non-Turbo 7M-GE supra motor in it, should be easy to bolt on a 7M-GTE turbo and run stock boost, or even take out the motor and fully do a swap with a 2JZ or 1JZ out of a Aresto, or JZX81 Chaser.
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i2obert: LOL, but you don't get the same respect as being in a skyline haha..
but I want a car with airbags, and ABS... I've had a fair amount of misses with my old VN SS, handled like a boat around Palm beach.. Live Axel sucks....
Furthermore, there's too much work to convert it to 2JZ, I've been researching, too much time and fabrication blah blah..
and the worse part, there's not an abundance of aftermarket parts for a 2JZ motor, RBs and SRs, parts are available everywhere.
Quinny: You've got PM
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PRICE DROP TO $3000
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Cheers mate, I'll keep it on my watch list..
but if he wants 8.5k, thats kinda high
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Anyone?
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Bump.. !!
Need it gone, I want my Skyline ehhehe
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Hi All,
I'm after a Damaged Series II R33 Skyline to fix and drive as my uncle is a panel beater.
Conditions:
- Still able to be registered
- Not on REVS
- Manual
- Not heavily damaged
- Preferbably still registered
- In Sydney
Cheers,
Johnny
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I just need to sell it and time to upgrade to a Series II skyline...
I got like nearly 600km on a tank when I drove down to Port Stephens last summer with the A/C on all the way...
So yeah, I think it still drinks less than a skyline..
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I wouldn't say its the best on petrol, but it would be more economical than a skyline thats for sure..
Cheers..
I Think My Injectors Are Cooked After It Got Cleaned
in Forced Induction Performance
Posted
There side feed..... RB20DET
And before my fuel pump would keep on running regardless, it wouldn't halt.. The previous owner didn't wire the fuel pump to the ECU, its wireless into the ignition... I'm going to change that soon when i got time......
I got the car in a mess.. been fixing it slowly....
It's so weird....