XRATED

Bump for an awsome HR...

You will need: New clutch- and or push pull converter. 33 and 34 GTR clutches are pull, 32 is push. Box- expensive for it's strenght. A 34 6 speed is debatable after 550 odd hp for racing. Modified drive shaft/s Modified g-box mounts 34 diffs or similar ratios Adapt the 32 ATESSA actuator, to the 34 transfer case. Adapt the speedo drive OR Get your old box built to new, with a nice OS gear set and twin syncro's. Hope that helps J.

You have exelent taste... Nismo harnesses will set off the robson leather nicely. Oh... and unlike Tiger- don't go to re-hab just yet. J. P.S. Who did your rocker covers? and what finish is it?

I think the best steering/susp mod I threw at my old HR was a set of rose jointed rack ends and a soild replacment steering dampener... It had bilstiens and matched springs... no sway bar upgrades. It was awsome through the tight twisties in Tassie. PS... Ha ha ha I actually threw out the auto spoiler motors! and permanently fixed the spoiler!! ... it was 10 years ago.

+3 For stock GTR BOV's 28psi and no leaks... As for swapping from aftermarket to GTR ... Stock, the GTR BOV's are open at idle, so make shure you plumb them back before the AFM- or put filters on them for MAP sensor cars. Melt??? I doubt it. They're so cheap to replace I wouldn't worry about it. I think it was Nizpro that used to use them for boost controll... Good bit of kit!

If you switch one pump on and off, be sure to install a non-return valve on the suction side of that pump... Two 044's are alot of fuel... especially if you try and squeeze it through a small return oriface (sard reg) To help stabilize fuel temps and return pressure, I will be running a FPR with a -10 return outlet and -10 retun line on my next set up (1400hp aeromotive pump). This is the reg: http://aeromotiveinc.com/products-page/reg...-efi-regulator/ I also need the muliple outlets for nitrous, 2 fuel pressure transducers and an accumulator. Hope that helps Justin.

If I didn't know the type of mangment system in a car I just bought... the first thing I would do is throw it on the rollers to check out the tune... Make shure it's not running some "fully hecktic sick... timing" J.

Ha ha ha... I like that.

It's either a good looking Porsche OR An ugly Lotus Elise... Low emission car = High emission production...

Is i worth 10k just to achieve a "look"? Look at some AC filters for SS mesh. GL J.

Check out: http://www.gtfactory.jp/cms/ They do some awsome low ride height, susp gear & modified knuckle kits. J.

Dont be soft Rob... Tub it! Ha ha ha If you go with a gtr front end... you could stich some gtr style guards on the back end? With a push and a tuck I'm shure you can get a 10.5 controll drag tyre under there... 10.5 class here in the US run quick enough!!! J.

Looks great mate... What are the details on the rims? Size, width, offset, brand, model and disk? Don't put stupid spacers on... Do you have an auto spoiler? You have to sit that puppy a little closer to the floor.... Fkn hella flush- BS

Some on needs to start producing some re-production factory looking air boxes for lines... Maybe sneak in some more volume and a larger inlet. Just a thought. J. PS Anyone from Quensland have the link to the rules and regs in reguards to modifications?

Hey Rob, forget the awd... your just going to tear up transfer cases anyway. Grab an auto stag, sell the awd rb25 and box, buy a gtr ass end and convert the front end to a 2wd rack/hubs etc... Then chuck in your 30/26 and C4... 2wd, 500rwkw, Auto stag FTW!

I have a small 330 sparco wheel on my GTR... TBH I probably like the stock wheel better to drive with. J.

#1 Good set of track tyres... all the susp under the sun cant help you unless you have grip. #2 Brakes... brakes brakes brakes... Good front rotors, good track day pads, good fluid and hoses. People get too far ahead of themselves with the shiney gear... After that: Track wheels Bushes and alignment Radiator Nistune

Have a look at precision turbo's from the US. The billet comp wheel, plain bearing turbo's are very well priced. J.

I've lost more than one motor to cheap (brand name, chineese JJR KKR etc) turbo letting go.... bearings failed and ended up getting pumped through the motor. Have a look at precision turbo's in the US. Good product, lots of development, ball or plain bearing, billet comp wheels... and around the same price as a KKR.

Hey Rob, I like how you think... Check out this thread... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Pa...-T-t295909.html Superjet760 is running a rips 30 and an awd auto.... I fairly shure the box is out of a cima, thats been built up. Nothing is really going to last to long at 500rwkw anyway. I've heard of a couple of people running old school auto's with transfer cases added to the back of them in GTR's as well... I know there are kits for the 4WD/Mud running guys to adapt transfer cases to C4/6 and glides. Or just tub the bitch and pull wheel stands. Worlds fastest stag??? ha ha ha.

Ouch... thats an expensive "test"

Nice set up...

Do you have any pictures of your work?

Crush it! Now! I feel sick...

Steel pipe will be ALOT more durable than any braided lines when mounted close to a heat scource, reguardless of what you wrap them in. The red firesleve (aeroquip) is designed to be a flash flame protection cover not an absolute thermal barrier for 1200 deg C... My suggestion is to use the standard or standard style drain tube. Get the drain tube to line up 5 or 6 cm from the drain fitting on the block and use a short peice of high temp rated hose, with good quality stainless steel hose clamps to join them. As long as you flare the ends of both tubes, the hose will never come off. If your super woried about leaks, just double clamp each end. My 2 cents Justin