XRATED

... looks like I'll need to stand corrected. Hit up Mercury Motorsport or Option 1 I would still like to know what wrong with the tune? J.

350whp is 261rwkw... Your not going to get 260rwkw out of a standard rb25 turbo... and you shouldn't run the stock injectors that hard either. And that's with 98ron fuel in Australia with a good/great tune and ecu. Considering yout environment and fuel, your not going get the most from a stock set up. To make your 350whp target, you are going to need: Turbo, injectors, fuel pump, bigger intercooler, exhaust, ecu/tune. Plus the 25 swap you will also need: - Modified tailshaft - Modified wiring loom - Gearbox sender drive mods - Gearbox mounts - Intercooler and exhaust mods (rb25 sits higher) - Fuel pump (rb20de pump isn't going to cut it) - etc etc You might get away with 300whp from a stock rb25 turbo, injectors and ecu with somthing like an SAFC.... the turbo won't last long either way. RE: the mines ecu... I'd loose it. Do you have access to a dyno and competant tuner? If you do, buy a nistune board www.nistune.com it will be cheaper than a mines ecu/greddy e-mange and you will end up with a much better tune. You can fitt it to your rb20de ecu... you cant fitt one the the rb25det ecu. J.

I think you'll find you will get more revs out of a correctly built 20 as compared to an SR- shorter stroke and smaller bore. Basically light is fast.. The lighter you can get the liner, the better your brakes will work and the more effective your hp will be. An na 32 dosn't give up much weight to a silvia... just give your car and yourself a diet!! ha ha ha Look at keeping your rolling resistance low too.

Just run the K&N dry or with very little oil. You can also clean your AFM wire easily with a couple of squirts of CRC automotive sensor cleaner. Ryco filter will pose more of a restriction when new as compared to a K&N... They are even worse when slightly dirty as compared to a slightly dirty K&N... if you get waht I mean. J.

If your not happy with the tune from Godzilla... Your going to need to find a serious workshop. What don't you like about the tune? Didn't get the peak hp number you wanted??? Yeah... good luck.

Definatly keep the 25 and throw the 26 rotating assembally in it. Correctly preppared and assemballed the 26 gear is good for 400rwkw, is lighter than a 30 rotating mass and cheaper/easier if your building a motor anyway. Also crank collars are so cheap- you might as well have on installed. Shot peen the rods and intall arp bolts. Ceramic coat the piston crown and teflon coat the skirt. Any you'll end up with a really nice, inexpensive bottomend.

If it's good sugar/cane based fuel then its going to be a good alcohol based fuel.... even better!!! If it has a large alcohol content, like ethanol/methanol mixed with benzine then a high comp boosted combo is peeerfect! We have E85 in Aus... it's made from cane- guys are running 12:1 compression and 20psi of boost with it.... good stuff. Alcohol based fuel is less dense than regular oil based gas, so you will need to flow more of it to make the same hp. If it's just crappy jungle juice, you might want to look into other methods of increasing efficiency/burn rate/energy/octane... If you can get access to Toulene (main component in paint thinner), you can add 1:7 mix into standard gas or if you can get Methanol, you can mix 1:6 into normal gas to help. What ever fuel you use when tuning- is the fuel you need to stay with. The reason I suggested staying with the origional engine/box combo is the conversion to rb25 can become complex for the uninitiated... Wiring hassles and ecu tuneabiility, gearbox mounts, re-size tailshaft... etc Also the little high comp rb20 is easily capable of 350rwhp if tuned correctly... The key for high comp- turbo motors is to keep the boost as low as you can for the power you want. Eg get a slightly bigger turbo and run less boost for the same peak power figure... this will keep combustion pressures and compustion temperatures down. The key to your power and reliability is going to be your access to good fuel and a good tune. Cooling is going to be your next issue- You can allways drop the static compression by fitting a thicker head gasket... relativly easy fix. My Jamacan friends all live in Florida... ha ha ha. For ecu- have a look at a Nistune board. Any good tuner should be able to fitt and tune one. It will go into you origional ecu and make it fully tuneable.... no wiring issues. What ever engine combo you go with, U WILL NEED TO RE-TUNE THE ECU to suit your conditions. The japanese tunes are rich up top, but they are designed for high octane japanese fuel- especially tuned ecu's like the MINES ecu's- they run lots of timing and dont have any saftey limmiters. If your fuel is alcohol based, the stock ecu is going to run dangerously lean with a little boost. J. out.

Looking to pick up somthing allready built- Cheers Justin

I ask why bother? The origional steel lines are less prone to failure/leak, more secure, stronger and more resistant to thermal stress. They just don't look as pretty...

Ha ha ha ha ha ha ha.... I love it.

Hey buddy, I'm seeing more and more Skylines, 300z's and silvias (not 240's) around the Islands.... Good stuff brethrin. I work on private superyachts, so I get to visit most of the Carib Islands once a year! US Ebay will be your friend buddy... Also there is some GTRs and plenty of 240's with RB's in Florida (where I'm based during summer). I have Bahamian and Jamacan buddies in Florida with some awsome RB's/Skylines. What kind of fuel will you be running your skyline on? and who is going to tune it? These will be the largest deciding factors when selecting parts. As far as I'm aware, Jamacan fuel is relativly low octane but high in Benzene content... So I'd look at an aftermarket option turbo for 350whp. You will need some good tuning to make it last what ever way you go. This is what I would do (assuming the engine and box are in good condition): Leave the stock NA rb20de and box Add an rb20/25det exhaust manifold (port matched)- $50 Precision turbo- billet comp wheel 5557 plain bearing- $1100 Dump pipe and exhaust- $350 (straight 3" mild steel with 1 muffler) Clutch and machined flywheel- $500 N1 oil pump- $300 (yes they are that cheap US ebay- I bought 3 genuine pumps 3 months ago for $240usd each) Cheap cooler kit- $300 rb20det cross over pipe (from cooler kit pipe work to throttle body)- $50 Matched 440cc injectors- $400 rb20det/rb25 air flow meter- $50 040 Bosch fuel pump (intank)- $150 ECU (what ever your tuner recomends)- $??? Plus: New timing belt, tensioner and idler fluids filters plugs hoses etc R32 gtst calipers R32 gtst rotors- redrilled for 4 bolt Tein springs (1.5" drop) Not too stiff struts/shock absorbers (Jamacan roads are generally fairly rough) New bushes 200lb guard dog... too keep it safe. ha ha ha PS where are you located on the Island? I might be that way next winter. Cheers Justin

How much for the GTR drivers seat? PM me

Well sports fans... there are no more high speed runs untill Feb next year. The weather is too hot and it WILL rain twice a day every day! It's very cool in south florida... I one friday-Sunday I: Went to ultra fest (dance music consert- 75000 people a day) Had a ride in a fan boat through the everglades Chewed through 120 rounds through a glock 17 .45 at a local indoor range Gambled at a genuine American Indian Casino Went to a car show Went to a Top Speed Run (as above) Then went to southbeach Miami for a drink Ha ha ha... And all I want to do is to go home and work on my GTR... :-(

Looking for a modified RB26 head. Idealy looking for somthing to suit a stroker RB26. Eg: Port work Cams-Springs-Retainers Valve seats and guides 270 deg and above cams.. Needs to be delivered to Tas. Cash money waiting. PM me here... I sign on daily. Cheers Justin

Ha ha ha ha.... cool.

Google "hydroxy" or "Browns Gas" Litterally thousands of people runn fuuny little tubes into they're cars, trucks and vans. They end up putting more energy into producing the gas than the extra energy it provides.... Interesting though.

Weatherhead repaired on of my GTC volks about a month after I got them (doh!)... That was a few years ago now! Magic. Cheers Justin

you can match port the mani's yourself quite easily.... or your mechanic can do it. J.

Watch out Stag owners.... Mmmmm SC 1UZ What sort of dollars are we looking at?

I've run over 400rwkw with bone standard exh manifolds.. Id highly recomend port matching them and ceramic coating, as well as the standard heat shields. If you really want to get serious, 34 N1 exhaust manifolds are a better casting, better material and slightly larger than stock GTR manifolds. As for dumps- I've allways used the trust dump and down pipe set for low mounts. For -7's, just clean up your stock ones or a set of r34 ones- with a decent set of down pipes that merge nicely. J.

If you allready have an NA R32... Then bolt up or all the GTR parts you can to it and be happy with what you've got. Leave the GTR in a shed and start building it up untill you get off your P's... OR Move to Tassie... No P plate- turbo laws. OR Leave you GTR in Tassie and drive it there (in the school holidays) ha ha ha...

Kick ass!!!! She's a good looking ol girl... so try and keep her in one piece. I'm a huge 31 coupe fan

Hey ol buddy... Loose the oiled filter. You allready have problems with your air flow meter- If you must go to a pod, make up a heat shield to box it in.

Non oil type K&N (oil messes with the air flow meter). Most of the major brands have drop in replacment washable filters... Just keep them clean- really clean- all the time. A fresh new filter can get you 6-8kw, a dirty new filter will robb you 10.

I'd start with a cheap throw away motor to trial on: I'd get a cheap 20de, machine the crank down to minimum weight then ballanced, open up all the oil galleries etc... GTR tb's are 45mm each- thats alot of blade area for a 2lt engine, but they're cheap and relativly easy to fitt. Machine the block/head down to a good comp ratio and invest in some crazy cams/lifters. Good exh manifold... Re-tune the stock ecu and see how it goes... All up it shouldn't cost tooo much if its a flop. If you see good gains, then throw al the good gear into a race engine with short skirt forgies, better manifold/runners and ecu. I say dooo iiittt!!! Or if it really sucks- throw 300hp worth of nitrous at it on methanol!!!