XRATED

No one???

For the money the Precision Turbo's are super hard to go past... They have some new, oil only duel ceramic BB cores with the billet comp wheel turbo's on the market... They're wastegates look quiet good too (picked on up the other day) again, at a very good price. Wow... you really are a fish out of water, at least in Fl there are skylines running around on the streets. Have a look at "nitto" oil pumps... they're being produced buy an Aussie tuning shop, apparently really good gear and cheaper than the jap brands. For managment, you could probably get away with a stock ecu and mother board change like a nistune... just don't go any bigger in the injector. Dont bother with cam gears... untill you've done everything else. If your going to be dragging alot, go bigger in the turbo than you normally would. Same hp @ lower boost help the little bugger to survive longer.... Cheers Justin

Hey guys, dose anyone have any leads/ contacts for a plactic fabrication/welding shop? I'm looking to modify a R32 GTR plastic tank. I'm fairly shure they're plastic... (I dont have access to a 32gtr at the moment) I want to stay with the plastic tank, rather than a steel gts-4 or gst-t tank. Lighter, more volume and no rust. Cheers Justin

I made some good gains in response and power using the trust dump pipe kit. Definatly ceramic coat the ex- housings, dumps and Y pipe. Also look at a heat shield on the front dump pipe, to keep as much heat away from the rear air intake. Cheers Justin

Why bother with the cost or complexity??? Especially with a stock turbo. BTW, braided lines are more fragile, will need repair/replacment much sooner, create more oppertunities to leak, less effective and much more prone to failure than the stock steel lines... Save your $400 and buy somthing usefull.

What do you want to monitor? have a look at Ruzic EM Pro II... awsome piece of gear.

Do you have any pics of the 40mm phenolic spacer? Cheers Justin

Dude, that sucks... Just make shure you find out why the bearings went to shizat. Otherwise you'll have to re-build it all over again. Expensive trial and error. J.

Strap On... For life. (especially while I'm in the US... they're so cheap here!!!) Especially power and air tools... Snap on drills and sawzall with the 18V 3.5Ah lithium batteries are the shizz!!! But seriously, working on import engines. Lots and lots and lots of universal bits, extensions, rachet spanners, a good mirror and 2 elbow's. oh and telesopic magnets with led's. If you have a welder, buy a cheap engine stand from supercheap, then extend the leags and renforce that sucker.

Strap On... For life. (especially while I'm in the US... they're so cheap here!!!) Especially power and air tools... Snap on drills and sawzall with the 18V 3.5Ah lithium batteries are the shizz!!! But seriously, working on import engines. Lots and lots and lots of universal bits, extensions, rachet spanners, a good mirror and 2 elbow's. oh and telesopic magnets with led's. If you have a welder, buy a cheap engine stand from supercheap, then extend the leags and renforce that sucker.

I'll take 1 set of transparent red for a 32GTR, also 1 set of transparent red for a 32 gts-t with 33 gtst brakes. Cheers Justin

I couldn't agree more... keep the stupid 20" chrome rims and cheap body "kits" for the lancers.... What happened to the good old days. Jap race rims, carbonfiber and exclusive/fun jap trinkits for your ride? When 10's were impossible and 300rwkw's was crazy! PS. Martin, your a champ for sharing your hard earned knowledge... Knowledge is everything. Cheers Justin It's just a shame you don't have time to share in some of the other tech threads.

Baah... Alcohol is for drinking Gasoline is for washing parts and Nitro is for racing!!! ha ha ha Yeah, I was thinking about methanol a while ago, but it really dosn't go with my street car build. Also E85 isn't available in Tas, so I stuck with the ID1000's instead of the ID2000's...

How is it going to cook your internals??? It's an intercooler spray kit! It will cool down your intake charge a little. If you thought it was a nitrous kit...... Then you really shouldn't be playing with nitrous at all. Honestly it's people similar to you (limmited knowledge on the subject) who give nitrous injection a bad name.... because you throw a kit on your car (usually completely incorrectly), damage the engine and blame the nitrous. I'm not having a go, but that's what happens. A little knowledge can be dangerous. If you want to learn about nitrous injection, check out: http://forum.nitrous-advice.org/ Cheers Justin

Progress! yeah... man your flying through the custom work. Engine tear down will slow you up though... bugger. Keep it up J.

Nistune anyone? How serious are the mods?

Awsome, cant wait to see the results. I'm digging the square bore/stroke ratio too... Even though I'm partial to my under square "revvy" japanese stroker kits. As long as the sleeves/spacer plate stays square and true, it should be a good thing. Nice and fat in the middle, with enough capacity to all but eliminate compressor surge with the GTRS's. Good Luck Justin

This thread is the perfect example of people not full understanding how to correctly set up, install and/or use nitrous oxide. As I said before, check out:http://forum.nitrous-advice.org/ The wizard of nos forum is the best resource for nitrous info... Read as many threads as you can and buy the book, it's a good read. PS. You won't need to change the injectors, ecu or base timing if you do it right and dont get greedy... You will need to upgrade the fuel pump as a precaution. Nitrous/fuel injector/s placment is more important on a N/A application, as compared to a boosted application. So don't look too hard at turbo nitrous RB set ups. Cheers Justin

There you go... that's more like it. I'm exited to see the results... I havn't seen anyone running a rb24 hard. Just watch the combustion pressures... rb24's get a little thin around the bores. Where in the US are you? I'm in south Florida at the moment. Unfortunatly I meet alot of rb enthusiasts in the US that "hero" the nissan rb engines a little too much.... too far ricer than racer. If you get where I'm comming from. A solid auto is a win win for the 1/4. Dont get too far into the ass end changes too soon. It gets to be a slippery slope. Just stick with GTR swap and 0 camber. Oh and if you change the nitrous set up, DONT USE NOS it's not much better than zex, have a look at wizard of nos- nitrous gear.... or at absolute minimum nitrous express. With the right wizard or nos controller, you can easily run gas all the way to redline safely. Also, have a look at Precision Turbo's, they have some awsome billet comp wheel turbo's comming out with bb garret CHRA's... very well priced. Good luck Justin

Well I said it's not going to be easy.... obviously you can prove me wrong (if that's not encouragment I don't know what is ha ha ha) There is alot more to running low numbers than a peak hp figure. Small capacity- large turbo engines have a narrow power band, couple that with IRS and a manual gear box... it all stacks up against you at the strip. Even with a giagantic throttle body, the stock intake maifold will not be efficient at the kind of power levels you'll need... nor will the stock exhaust manifold. It's all about bottle necks. If your still using the stock head porting and valves then that's going to hold you up too... Unfortunatly an rb20 isn't an awsome base to sart with for a big hp engine. Personally I love them, they're an awsome little thrasher motor! You might get lucky with the gearbox, but expect to break a couple while chasing 9's. Also get rid of the zex nitrous kit... it's more troube than it's worth. They're nozzles are a poor design and the solinoids are well known for failure. The stock exhaust manifold will become even more of a restriction when you shove nitrous down it's throat... You may well find the wastegate (due to it's installation as well as size) wont be able to bypass enough exhaust gas to maitain correct shaft speed ( regulate boost pressure) with the nitrous on, thus resulting in boost spiking. My suggestions to squeeze out a one time 9, are: strap a big whizzer to the side of the poor little 24, put a large head gasket on and run 8.2:1 CR... Turn up the boost to compensate for the bottlenecks and so the wastegate dosn't have to work as hard. Then throw a set of slicks under under it and replace what breaks. Hope that helps... Car looks great and I love the stich welding around the seams. Good luck Justin

I hope the track is 1/8th mile bro... your pushin shiat up hill to run a 9 on the 1/4 with that set up bud. Hope the build turns out well for you.

Stao... R32GTR/Iceland is not a PT rep. I'm fairly shure the PT use garrett CHRA's. Contact Justin Norris i think it is... [email protected] Good guy.

Use a hi silicone content, thick wall vac/boost hose. Rubber and braided (has rubber inside) will perish/colaps quite quickly when it gets to hot. The wastegate is going to get very hot. Turbosmart make a good hose. J.

+1 for not using a chineese oil cooler. Killed 2 rb20's +1 billion for accusump... I don't know why more people dont run them??? Even if you don't use them straight away, put in any and all crank case vents, drains etc. Don't worry about the cam cover baffles, you can easily put them in with the engine in. Replace any cracked coolant/vac lines under the plenum... replace the tb gaskests if you havn't allready with metal ones. Pleunum is an ass to get off in the car. also make shure all your coolant/oil lines are good and sealed/secure to the turbo's... again a very labor intensive problem. Definatly replace the heater hoses too.

I've had first hand experience with a few Precision turbo setups now. A 2.6 33GTR with a 7175 making 860bhp... very smooth and progressive in the lower end. It was alot more responsive than the simiar non-billet wheel PT turbo. Absolute animal on boost... I love it! Another 2.6 33GTR with a 6265 making 700bhp and a stonking 192mph standing mile run... that was his first/only run too. The car is suprisingly "responsive" for the size turbo. An RB25 with a 5557 in a S13... a little smoother than a td06, with similar power potential. It was limmited by the injectors at about 280rwkw, but lots of torque. And of course, I watched first hand(didn't get to ride in) the Performance Power TT GT40 at a standing mile event... amazing!!! it has twin 75mm prototype Precision Turbo, billet turbo's.... It's obviously a larger engine, but when Johnny puts his foot on it from idle, the thing comes alive very very quickly!!! I've actually bought a 5557 plain bearing, billet wheel T3 for my daily rb25 r32... I really want to do a comparison with a td06 l2 (that why I bought plain bearing core). Justin.