XRATED

If it's rated AC only then no it probably wont work.. Just call Ray Hall (vi-pec) in Qld and get him to overnite the big valve to you. Then post up the part number for mee... he he! Cheers Justin PS who's tuning your vi-pec in tas???

It's not that simple.. Every psi over X psi of exhaust pressure dose not equal an exact HP... ha ha ha 3psi is generally reguarded (by the tuning community) about the limmit for exhaust back pressure. You find the restriction by removing exhuast components one at a time. Install one pressure guage just before the cat... if you measure it in the dump pipe you can get a false reading due to turbulance. Then install a pressure guage after each exhaust component. The difference in the guages will show you where the restriction is. Cheers J.

I am aware of E85 thermal properties... But an 044 at 0 psi pumps alot of fuel... If an 044 pumps 3.5lpm at 55psi @12V - probably double it or more for 0-5 psi. It's filling that surge tank volume very 30 seconds. That's alot of roundy roundy... J.

Seriously, the phisical size is not an issue... if the weldon cant possibly fitt, then look at an aeromotive etc... i will garantee you can make a weldon fitt outside. http://www.weldonracing.com/product/16-6/D..._outlet%29.html is 8" long by 3.5" wide... how is that 'way to big' ??? an 044 is what- 7" by 2.5"??? There is no way your going to run out of flow with the above pump with 360rwkw on e85... the pump is rated at 700hp on methanol! and it has -8 in and out. So NO your not limmited to -10 or -12 choices.... If you necked down a -10 outlet on the outlet to -8 you would limmit the pumps full potential at a given pressure. But it is no different than running two smaller pumps of the same flow rate into the same -8 line... so what are you getting at? You might need to brush up a little on you 'fluid dynamics' too there little buddy.. If you choose the correct NRV there will be no issue with cracking pressure... for an application like this you would look for somthing with a .5-1 psi cracking pressure... hell most full bore NRV's dont even have a seat spring- thus 0 psi cracking pressure. Cracking pressure almost has no bearing on the restriction a NRV may create.... The suction side is low pressure and low velocity- the outlet side is high pressure high velosity... the same orriface under low pressure will flow more v's the under high pressure. .... OK for the last time: Example 1. On two occasions I've had a single 044 in a single pump configuration that has failed on be. Reason for pump failures are unknown. Example 2. A High performance vehicle had two 044 pumps running in paralell as main feed pumps. One of the pumps failed and locked up. There were no NRV's fitted. The single remaining pump supported the engine to run at normal driving rpm. The vehicle was then driven aggressivly, leaned out and as a result the engine was damaged. Upon inspection of the fuel system, the faulty pump was found to be locked and also letting pressure bleed back through. The vehicle was fitted with an accurate AFR guage with warning light and a fuel pressure guage with warning light. the engine was only held at peak load for a few seconds before it was damaged. Reason for pump failure is unknown Example 3. A high performance vehicle has two 044 pumps running in paralell as main feed pumps. One pump failed. There were NRV's fitted. The single remaining pump supported the engine to run at normal driving rpm. The vehicle was then driven aggressivly, leaned out and as a result the engine was damaged. Upon inspection of the fuel system, the faulty pump was found to be weak/failing. The damage was sustained over a relativly long period of time... 3 track days. The vehicle did not lean out untill right at peak hp at high speed. Lean AFR's and lowish fuel pressure at high speed was noticed by the driver however the condition could not be replicated on the dyno or from any other tests performed. It was difficlut to diagnose untill the whole fuel system was taken apart and tested. Reason for pump failure is unknown. All set ups had correct filters in place, used correct fittings and correctly sized hose. Any pump can break or fail... But you can limmit your exposure to failure by using less components. I prefer to use one pump for a few reasons: 1. I don't need to save money on fuel system components 2. Less components= Less things to fail 3. Simpler to operate and controll 4. Easier to install and package 5. Less fittings and thus less points of failure/leaks 6. The one pump is of better quality than multiple cheaper pumps 7. Quicker to diagnose a problem with the fuel delivery J.

If you start driving around town and the pumps start getting noisy... they're hot. also put your hand on the surge tank after an hr of slow driving. It seems to be alot of fuel movement... just my thoughts. Personally I'd put them on the suction/low pressure side... but hey if it works. The set up looks neat though. Cheers Justin

Yeah the stock fuel lines are capable of flowing that volume of fuel... but they do create a restiction. Especially with the extra volume needed for E85- I'd try and run larger lines. Large lines will reduce the fuel's velocity and reduce the required line pressure in order to maintain flow, also a larger return line will reduce back pressure and aid in re-circ or loop heating... You don't need to use braided lines either. J.

Please ask your question clearly then... What is your question? My experience is by no means evidence.... In my experience- I have been involved with 2 twin pump set ups, where one pump failed and as a result the engine leaned out and damaged was the result.... I have also personally had an 044 sh@t out on me on two seperate ocassions- how dose that vary? As i said before... I provided the wrong link to the inline pumps, in my next post I rectified the fault and provided the correct link- why are you still going on about it? How could you possibly mistake a block Weldon pump as in tank? (I'm guessing you have had very limmited experience with fuel systems). There are several weldon pumps with -8 in and out? these are by no means "huge"... Again as I said before, in order to maximise a pump's potential you can use a large feed line and return line- BUT YOU DONT HAVE TO..... JUST USE THE -8 IN AND OUT PUMP IF YOU WANT SMALLER LINES. If you use the correctly sized check valve, it will not cause a noticable restriction- especially on the suction side/low pressure side of a pump. Any threaded rail kit can be fitted with -8 fittings, or if going on a twin entry rail, just split the -8 line into 2x -6. Turn the pump on it's side.... Daaaa... Who cares how big it is? If you don't like weldon buy somthing else? Whatever- How would you know how efficient the pump is? One weldon pump will take up the same or less space than 2x 044's... will do the same work as 2x 044's and last longer than 2x 044's How is than inefficient? J.

dude.. an internet forum is not a substitute mechanical workshop. take it to a mechanic, who knows they're way around a GTR. J.

It looks real... but it dosn't meow

And like I said before... this is the internet... a public internet forum... You really need to talk to a tuner/builder and ask them for advice... Who's going to tune the car? ask them... Search through the forum and you'll find plenty of threads on fuel set ups. J.

....? again I don't really know what your asking?? A single pump or 20 pumps set up correctly will all perform as required... exactily the same. Untill one breaks/fails. If you have one pump that fails you are more likely to diagnose/become aware of the failure well before you reach peak torque/hp.... multiple pumps will be harder to diagnose/recognise untill your reach peak torqu/hp- and by then it may be to late. If you want me to give you the sign's and symptoms of a failing fuel pump, we will be here all night. Here is my suggestion: Get an under car surge tank arrangement. Use your stock intank pump as a feed pump. Plumb in a single fuel pump (choose one with a higher rated hp than you require) and wire it in with large guage wire and realy. Make shure you run a 40 mic filter before the fuel rail and a 100mic filter before the main feed pump. The pump choice is entirly up to you. My preffrence is a single pump- but in my application it's the more expensive option... $1400 v's $750. Most people go for two pumps because it's cheaper. Guages, alarms and AFR meter will all help you to recognise a lean out as it's happening. Cheers Justin

Who tuned to vi-pec for you in tas? cheers justin

That looks awsome!!!

If you want to transport other peoples cars, insurance will be the hardest thing to get.... you will need experience to get the insurnce.

To erm... stay on topic: Awsome Car (I don't want to get banned too) Whoever moderates the moderators need to take a good hard look at why he was kicked off? The website is more valuable with his input, plain and simple. J.

No it wouldn't///

Alot of industrial components, especially solinioids/actuators etc are rated with an AC and DC voltage. I can't say it will work, but it might. Look it up on the MAC website... I have pnumatic MAC valves in the air controll throttle/gear controlls on the yacht I'm currently working on. I will be ordering new pilot soliniods for the system soon and I want to include a " large boost controll" solinoid in with the order for me. Anyone have the part number for the larger valve? Looks like a 200 series, but they don't list a 12V only 24V. Cheers Justin

By 'switching' I was refering to a second pump that is turned on at a preset parameter... I have had 2 044's die for no apparent reason... There are alot of examples of them failing for various reasons... but not enough to be considered unreliable. High performance equipment isn't reliable as good oem generally- Bosch make good pumps for the money, but don't really compare to a weldon or fuel lab pump. There are many many signs and symptoms of a faulty fuel pump. The bigest problem caused by a faulty fuel pump is leaning your engine out while under heavy load, wich may cause damage to your engine. The other thing with large capacity fuel pump/s is the heat generated by circulating the fuel far to quickly... Large turbo combo's don't require alot of fuel untill they start to come onto boost... so you end up flowing a 1000hp worth of fuel constantly while driving around town using 0-400hp worth of fuel capacity... you end up warming the fuel and fuel pumps quite quickly. 180or200 I'm suprised you dont get some crazy heat issues using an 044 as a lift pump into a 3lt surge tank AND then 2 044's circulating around the rail. That's alot of juice going roundy roundy roundy. I'd also look at fitting a pair of these http://aeromotiveinc.com/products-page/acc...k-valve-orb-10/ to the suction side of your pumps to prevent backflow in the event of a failure. At the end of the day there are plenty of big hp cars built by bigger workshops who use multiples of 044's as feed pumps... and mostly only in Aus? Most of the modified cars in the US and Europe use a single, large capacity fuel pumps. Cheers Justin

I just got an image of the first time they try and drive it... ... boost, four wheels light up and boom the car rockets sidways into the wall. Epic build though.

If a single pump dosn't switch on.... the car wont go- at all. Depends how it fails... if you have one pump and it's on it's way out, you will notice it before you get into the top of the power curve. J.

Hey mate, The extra fuel useage shouldn't be an issue... I'll only be running E85 for drag racing and the occasional track day. Ha ha ha... I used to carry jerry cans of 98 and toluene with me, when I ran up and down the west coast. I'll be able to change maps easily enough with the new ecu. thanks for the thought though Cheers Justin

Bulkhead fittings will help, but the teflon hose isn't 100 at keeping the smell out... Teflon lined hose also has a very large bend radius compared to rubber, not to mention you need teflon/braided compatable end fittings... you cant use the regular rubber/braided fittings. If your engine requires more fuel than one pump can supply and you run two pumps, then you run the risk of one pump not "switching on" or one pump failing... either way the other pump will support the flow rate right up untill the demand becomes to great (usually right near the top of your power curve) thus rail pressure drops and your AFR's head south very quickly.... this normally happens right around peak torque and nearly peak hp. You won't diagnose a shot fuel pump or notice the lack of fuel pressure untill it's to late. I'd rather stop dead on the road/track and push the car off the road before I kill a 10/20k motor... easy to diagnose too. I'd like you to explain why a correctly sized, inline, non return valve positioned at the low pressure/suction side of a pump is a "dumb idea"??? ... this is gonna be good. AND why a ball valve??? is better... Did you read the reason why you would put a non return valve on each pump running in paralell???? Cheers Justin

Yep... makes scense to me. If you want a good deal on a weldon pump, these guys do me good prices. They're in Texas. http://www.t1racedevelopment.com/en/home.html J.

Dose anyone have the part number for the large 3 way MAC valve on the Vi-Pec website? http://www.vi-pec.com/page_files/control_valves.htm Looks like a 200 series small 3 way but in 12V?

I wouldn't want to take the chance.... would you? You can get away with running more than 1/2 a tank at the drags... I ran 1/2 a tank for the first season I drag raced my GTR. If you'r planing on plenty of "fun" driving... it's a worth while investment. The undercar mounted surgetank/pump mount kit's are quite a good idea... less in cabin noise, no fuel smell, legal and easier plumbing. A relay will let you run a much larger power cable to the fuel pump, it will also bypass the factory fuel pump speed controller. You need to get the fuel pump the most voltage and amperage you can, in order for it to work to it's maximum potential. Don't cheap out on the fuel system... J.