XRATED

Hey Damo, thanks for the info... who is running the motorkhana? I might see if I can enter. I'm flying back from florida late november, so I'll try and catch the super series too. Cheers Justin

Upgrade the fuel pump, there are plenty of drop in options (nismo/sard etc) or even a low km GTR fuel pump. Put an adjustable fuel pressure regulator on and pump up the base pressure 8-10psi. Put the rb25 turbo on (as long as it's in good condition). Add a boost controller. Replace the stock cat with a 'test' pipe... or bigger cat. Even a good condition GTR cat is good. Have someone re-flash the stock ecu.... You will soon find out how much boost you can run untill you run out of available fuel delivery (injector duty cycle). For reliability I wouldn't run the rb25 turbo much more than 12psi anyway. Nistune is a great option, but might be more than you need for simple upgrades. If your planning on more upgrades down the track, then it's perfect. You'll also find you will need a new clutch.

I'd urge you to use stock replacment steel lines, not braided. Especially if it's a street car. The braided hose will perish relativly quickly witht he constant heat cycling. But hey, braided hoses look pretty I guess... J.

If you want to cheap out on your rb26...... eh expect it to go boom. Simple as that. A GTR isn't cheap to own...

Hey guys, are there any car related events happening in December??? I need my speed fix!!! H aha. Cheers Justin

396 rwd... 394 awd...

rb20 or rb25 series 1 afm are the same plug and wiring as the rb26 afms... they're just bigger and higher resolution. They're good for about 200kw each, so if your running under 400rwkw your golden. Plus they're cheap! cheers Justin

What are you guys paying (roughly) for adapters/dogbones to adapt the evo brembo's to skyline hubs? Who has a good 355mm rotor/adapter combo they can share? Cheers Justin

Standard fuel pumps are known to fail. It's cheap insurance. If you upgrade to the rb25 turbo, keep the boost low untill you get it on a dyno. Once you up the boost, you may need some GTR injectors a Z32 AFM and a programable ecu such as a nistune. Or you can just leave the stock turbo on and enjoy it for what it is. Cheers Justin

Take it to a mechanic.... They are designed as 'drop in' camshafts. There are no other parts required to do the job. I would suggest replacing the timing belt and installing adjustable cam gears (if you want to go that way) as the same time. If your going the replace the cam belt, replace the idler pulley and the rocker cover seals. Justin

Do some testing? Run your factory air box on the dyno, then whip it off and pop on a pod.... if you get a decent increase and can live with a pod- then pod it is. Just make shure you box the pod in and run a cold air intake to the pods. I'd like to see the 400rwkw r32/r33gtr's with stock air boxes, take them off and re-run them on the same dyno. There must be some resonable pressure drops between the pannell and the turbo. Bang a vacume gauge on it. Justin.

I wouldn't touch it.... I wouldn't touch it with your diik! Cheers Justin

I get soooo exited everytime I see a 'tuned' import in Sint'Maartin, BVI's, St Kitts, Barbados, Trinidad, Jamaica etc... even the Dominican Rep. My 5000hp MTU's just don't cut it in a big ass superyacht! Ah man I missssss my GTR!

It's not quality control, it's the build quality and manufacturing materials/methods.... It's all well and good for a retailer to swap out a defective part, but what if that part cost you a motor or worse??? Oil under your tyres is dangerous, oil mist hitting a red hot exhaust manifold is worse... A cheap oil cooler kit is what 400-500bucks? Plus a thermostat and plumbing... add $200? And you still have poor materials and construction. Greddy oil cooler adapter with thermostat- $200 Aeroquip lines and fittings- $200 Earls oil cooler core- $150 Tadaaaa.... same money- no cheap shitty parts!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GReddy-Oil-...sQ5fAccessories http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Earls-19-Ro...sQ5fAccessories

Personally I wouldn't put a 'cheap' oil cooler kit on any engine. It's not really the performance I'm worried about.... as I'm shure they work well enough. It's the reliability I'm worried about. Poor quality adapter construction, weak threads, poor sealing surfaces, horrible fittings, very cheap hoses and thin cores.... All add up to possible failures. I don't really want to worry about the life blood of my engine spraying everywhere.... Accident, fire, stuffed engine, mess... A better comprimise would be to buy a greddy oil cooler adapter, buy some good quality hoses and fittings and a quality core.

In all seriousness have a look at wizard of nos nitrous products.... they are light years ahead of the holley/NOS- NX- Nitrex etc. I've had first hand experience with Trev's gear on a 1800hp GT40 (plus nitrous) at some standing mile events and I have bought a full direct port set up for my own RB28. http://www.noswizard.com/ It's exy- but it's well reaserched and tested technology. Cheers Justin PS: check out the forum.

Hey Toff, Are there any other time attack events held during the year? Cheers Justin

How often are the drift/time attack events held now? Cheers Justin.

Awsome.... I want those rims!!!

x2 ADF (Australian Defence Force) is a small circle... If it's coming from his CO, it ain't gonna be a suggestion! Australian government agencies don't like bad press or pissed off civies.... J.

How do you find the magnafuel pumps? How would you compare them to weldon pumps? .... 12x 2000cc injectors.. Can't wait to see the results!!! Cheers Justin

CAS is Crank Angle Sensor and TPS is Throttle Position Sensor. The engine won't operate correctly with the stock ecu... you will need to re-tune the stock ecu or use a piggy back etc. I use a simple rpm window switch sold by JEGS in the US to controll the VCT. Change the fuel pump.... by now it's at least 15 years old if it's the origional. You should be able to find a suitable drop in replacment from nismo etc... or even a low km GTR pump. If you do go ahead with the swap, double whatever budget you work out... trust me. Also, before you install the new engine get it checked (you don't want to go through all this just to find out it's a dud) and replace ALL the service items- belts, timing belt/idler bearing, clutch etc... I'd also advise replacing the water pump and oil pump for a N1 pump with a crank collar if your going to modify the new engine. The rb20 gearbox won't put up with alot of torque and abuse... go with the rb25 box. Cheers Justin

If you go that way you will need all the engine sensors a full loom and ecu, then you will have to patch that loom into the chassis. A 26 in a 32gts-t is one of my favorite combo's.... it's not easy to achieve though. Especially in jap land where labour/fabrication is expensive. I wouldn't bother with a 26 in your situation, you don't have the knowledge or skills to do it yourself and it's going to be very expensive to get somone to do it for you. The rb25 swap can be all but plug and play... Get yourself a low km series 1 rb25. Swap over the rb20 sensors to the rb25, drop the 25 in and plug the loom in. You can do the rest with the e-manage (not a great option) or other ecu. Remove the CAS, AFM, TPS, temp sensors, pressure sensors/switches, ignitor module/coil packs/coil pack loom, etc from the rb20 and install it all onto the rb25. Remove the injector loom from the rb20, cut the injector plugs off and solder on the rb25 injector plugs onto the rb25 loom. The rb20 AC pump, alternator and power steering pump should all bolt up to the rb25 too.... so the wiring stays the same for tem too. Just do what you would do if you were going to replace the rb20 with another 'undressed' rb20 long block. The ecu won't know you magically added 500cc. As for the hicas, remove the hicas ecu/pump/lines etc and install a hicas lock bar.... hicas was a bad idea from the start, so ditch it.

I'm a huge fan of Injector Dynamics injectors. I have a set of ID2000's for my GTR and ID1000's for the missus gts-t. We did the ID2000 drop in test ourselves... stock civic, hondata and ID2000's- idled and drove like a standard car. we even had the receptionist drive it around for a week! nearly stock fuel consumption.... 2000cc injectors in a stock honda civic!!!!! Great spray pattern too. . . . . at the end of the day you do get what you pay for. Cheers Justin