XRATED

Check out the new precision turbo, billet range... Go a 5557 with billet comp wheel, your choise of flange and size exh housings, ceramic duel bb core etc (no need for water cooling)... they're around 1200 USD. I have one on a stock internals 25, soon to be tuned. Don't bother with the website, just call them direct... great guys. Or Pm me and I can get you in contact with a dealer in Fl. Cheers Justin

I'm planning to run mine into the glove box or up behind the dash.. Apparently they are fairly sensitive to water and rough conditions... If you do go Vipec, they are compatable and plug right up. Do your thermocouples penitrate into the gas flow or just in the bung welded on the outside or each runner? I keep getting different advice- PM again.

Is there enough cable on the egt sensors to run the plugs into the cabin? Looking good mate!!! Cheers Justin ... you havde pm

The only downside to you getting this wrapped up and tuned, is there's going to be one less 'awsome' build thread to check out... It would be interesting to see turbo get stuck behind the sc... twin charge! GL J.

You could have a steel -6/8 male fitting welded onto your stock rail. If your going to all the effort of running a braided line, it might as well be a -8 (1/2"). Or just run the 044 into the stock steel line. J.

Hmm... Maybe 'Drag Version' means 'Not Genuine' in Chineese?

My Splitfires are 7 years old now, so I need to buy coil packs either way. I'm also going to run vipec xps- cdi unit. If I'm buying coil packs anyway, I might as well get coil packs designed for cdi... I'm planning to run 25psi and upto 250hp worth of nitrous, so I need a gooood ignition system. cheers J.

Nice one!!! How much was the set up? Was it difficult to set up/tune? Are you getting better fuel economy? Cheers Justin

What part number are the msd cdi coils you are using? Cheers Justin

x2 water spray

Did you guys solid mount the engine to the chassis? The wiggins clamps don't have any flex, so if your motor moves and the pipe work is secured down to the chassis/body- somthing is going to give and it aint gonna be the wiggins clamps. GL Justin.

Annnd... That's what is wrong with the 'HOONING' (so called) Laws.... It's up to the 'discretion' of an untrained, bias individual with absolutely zero requirment or burden for proof/evidence to make a conviction. Police are untrained to identify speed correctly (without a calibrated tool), bias towards racking up as many trafic infringments as possible (especially imports/younger drivers) and hold the unchecked/governed power to take your car/licence on a whim... Look tool bag, no one cares... go back to the NSW thread or high school. Why are you in the Tassie thread? Justin.

Dude... Who owns the twin turbo lump? .... I can't belive I'm missing all the action! Justin.

Dude... if you NEED 400kw to overtake, your doing somthing wrong. There's nothing you can't do on the street with 300kw that you can do with 400... other than taking down a Lambo or Mclaren. So what's the need to run a knife edge WMI tune on the street? Overtaking? Come on dude... J.

... where are you going to re-locate it to? glove box or center console??? ha ha Cheers Justin

I'd turn the engine over by hand just to check you dont have any valve to piston touchy touchy... Once you have checked and re-checked the cam timing, pull the plugs and turn it over by hand untill you get oil pressure, re-install the plugs and start her up. Then chuck a timing light on it to set base timing. Go for a drive and monitor the afr's and knock levels... Personally I'd throw it on the dyno just to check it out. J.

Thankyou captain obvious. But you can run it at the track, where you will be doing most of the hard work... Are you going to run a knife edge tune and water/meth on the street all the time? I wouldn't, there's no need.... your not going to use 400kw on the street very often. BTW.. nitrous is no more dangerous in a vehicle than gasoline or LPG. In fact N20 is innert and stored better... Water/meth isn't huge in the states either... most guys are running it because availability to good fuel is limmited.... (then they see the numbers us Aussies are getting out of the same engine/turbo combo's and they want the same- so they up the knock theshold and octane with WMI). ... it is cool running around the streets in a car with 30lb of nitrous on tap (currently in the US) though. HA HA!! Justin.

Cams sold to me a week ago... Have they been sent yet? J.

A water spray kit on an intercooler, is a bandaid (unless your in a burnout comp etc..) to cover up the lack of intercooler efficiency- I agree. But if he sticks with the stock cooler and it heat soaks, the only way to bring the temps down is to either stop driving so hard, or spray it down. Obviously a propper water meth injection kit is going to work way better than an external spray kit, but if the external spray kit stops working he's not going to loose an engine... Air temp correction tables, low water level warning lights/alarms, flow alarms, low line pressure alarms etc... are all reactive- they may work fast enough to stop the motor detonating in the event of injection failure- they may not? The technology is there and is much better then 10 years ago when I did my first MWI kit on a red top rb20- but technology needs to be costantly tested to remain reliable. How often do you test the sensors, switches and tables? Methanol becomes gluggy after a while of sitting around, especially when mixed with water. Also it's not so bad on a track car, but if it's a street car then it's going to get alot more work and the operator is less likely to test sensors/be monitoring guages/notice a knock then become more complacent. I'm not against it, WMI has it's place... I just dont like having to rely on ANOTHER seperate system to keep my engine together. Cheers J. PS If you wan't lower intake temps and a power gain, look at a low hp nitrous oxide kit... A well set up 25hp shot can supprise you. I used to run a 50hp shot just to lower the air temps while drag racing.

I see it as a bandaid and just another thing to go wrong... If your looking for a drop in intake temps or keeping your stock cooler from heat soaking, just run a simple spray of water over the front of the cooler while your on the track. Activate it on boost (10psi pressure switch). If you run out of water or the nozle gets blocked, your not going to burn up your engine. J.

Post a picture!!! This is better than the NA forum!!! it's allways good for a laugh. J.

... Roob 3 years old, you gotta change those suckus buddy! even if you havn't been using them, the fuel goes gluggy. As I said before... the standard pump will fitt better and be more reliable (especially with the origional wiring), as long as it's in good condition... alot better option than a nasty cheap walbro. Cheers Justin

Not to many people keep a mandrel bender hanging around... Everyone buys mandrel bends and welds them together. btw if he had a mandrel bender, the pipes would probably be one piece. J.

It's a good way to do it... The stock lines are totally fine for your power levels and 98 with twin pumps. There are no low pressure/high volume bosch pumps in the same frame I can think of... The next best thing will be a lower rated bosch pump in the same frame size. Or just retro fitt the carter pump. Nice one Rob, what filters are they? If it's a GTR tank, they're plastic... would be a little difficult. otherwise check this out: http://aeromotiveinc.com/products-page/ste...ealth-sump-kit/ Awsome!

Custom buddy.... Rob's (RIPS) a top bloke, he make all sorts of custom tanks with cool etched logo's ect... not cheap though J.