XRATED

Done 312km/h... over 8k. R32GTR with 400rwkw and a dog box. Got there pretty quick! I attended quite a few standing mile events in Florida over the last few years... There are allways a HUGE variety of cars and bikes turn up. I helped out on a record breaking 252+mph TT GT40 with nitrous. The events are great! It's a very easy going event, no one gets tooooo serious. It's just good fun. It's relativly easy on the vehicles, there's no crazy outlay for brakes or 16 pairs of tyres and it's technical enough to keep it interesting. I'd like to see a 'cannonball run' standing mile event out in central Aus. Cheers Justin

Hope you changed the fuel lines on th silver 33!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Pat, running an alluminum temp sensor adaptor in your 'rubber' rad hose isn't going to affect anything. Your coolant contains a corrosion inhibitor anyway. Just make shure you put some thread tape on the sensor, before you screw it into the ally housing. The corrosion your thinking about is galvanic corrosion, caused by dis-similar metals that are connected together and emerssed in an electrolyte. The less noble metal will give up electrons to the more noble metal... Cheers Justin

Yeah, I guess you can see the turbos a little better... It's still pretty crowded in there though. I realy like the look of neat trust/hks low mount pipe kits.

Get the lineR right first, before you get modifying... Then with your left over 2k, buy a nitrous kit and tune. J.

around 1200 7 years ago. they're on ebay in the US for 900 new. I was going to make my own pipe work, but for the effort, materials and buggering around.... it's worth 1100 bucks! not to mention it performs as well as anything I could have made and it looks alot neater too. Well designed and well made. From memory, it only took 3 or 4 hrs to fitt. Cheers Justin

My Trust pipe kit is a long and smooth transission... good angles too. Worth every cent in my opinion. J.

The lube heaters are the go... but without 'more' plumbing and potential leaks the nitrous bottle heater idea is great. Once I get back to Tassie, I'll be installing block heaters for lube oil and coolant- for pre start. They are fairly common in colder climate european countries, mercedes has been doing them for years. The nitrous bottle heaters are just resistantnce heaters in a silicon matt, that are wrapped around the bottle. 12V anything upto 30A. The good one's will be controlled by a pressure switch and realy. I would be very simple to controll the on/off with a temp switch or ecu output. Install would be quicker too. ... I like it! Ha ha Justin

easy fix... get a new turbo set up.

wouldn't bother going bigger...

Good choice on the injectors... Very controllable even at idle. Did you see the ID2000 vid in a stock honda? You can run an external pump inline with your nismo pump... no need for a surge tank to run an external pump. A single 044 being feed by another pump will increase it's flow capacity too. I'd shorten the feed line and install an inline pump/filter under the car. I drag raced a stock bottom end for 2 years+ street driving with 400rwkw, 26psi (no vac lines) and nitrous... No luck needed.

I have a twin low mount TD06 manifold and turbo's with dump pipes. Swap the 06's out for TD06L2's with 10cm housings... 1200hp??? Stock position...

updates, updates, updates???

Honestly your pushing the upper limmits of a stock 34 cooler, 3" exhaust and a stock airbox anything close to 350rwkw... It can be done, but your not doing yourself any favors by not addressing them. The cooler will flow allright at 350, it will get heatsoaked fairly quickly through. There is a huge difference between 3" exhausts, just make shure you have a decent y pipe (the merge from the two dump pipes to the cat) as the factory set up is junk. I'd keep the snorkel and modify the air box. Cut a hole in the airbox before the filter and run a hose from the front bar/guard into the box- it's been done plenty of times before... search 'cold air induction'. As for you AFM's, rb20afm's plug directly into the rb26 loom and are good for 200rwkw each. They're also bigger than the 26 afm's. But if direct fittment and stock look are the goals, then the extra bucks for the nismo's are worth it. Keep reading... and not just HPI.

Just keep searching for an origional rb25de r32. Or if you really cant find one- swapping an rb20de for a rb25de is going to cost you the best part of $3k. If your going to keep the car till your off your p's, the rb25de is a great base for a high comp, mild turbo combination... While your at it you might as well throw some coilovers under it and a set of r33 gtst brakes. If you do go for an engine swap and your keeping the car for a while, start with an r32 rb25de- as all the rb20 loom will plug in. Install a nistune into your rb20de ecu and tune it the best you can with intake and exhaust mods. No more det to de! (we need bumper stickers)

Modify an off the shelf one...

Dude, your comming off like a typical arrogant yaarpie. (yaaarpie is slang for southafrican, as they yaaaa alot) I have to work with them every day.... Where in Africa are you??? It's a big place you know.... You still havn't said. It's your choise to live in Africa and own a skyline. So you have to deal with the shipping costs and lack of knowledge about the cars overthere... no point biaching about it. If your not a mechanic etc, then you cannot hope to build an engine yourself, without some sort of training, equipment and experience. so don't bother trying. By the sounds of things, if you can't figure out how to adjust a clutch then I wouldn't bother touching your car with any tools, just stick to washing it. You can keep building motors, installing motors till the cows come home, but unless they're correctly installed, manitained and tuned you will just keep destroying them. Here is my advice to you: 1. Sell the skyline and buy a 1984 300C merc... you wont kill that. 2. Have someone remove the engine, transmission, wiring harness and ecu, pack it up and shipp it to somone who knows what they're doing. Have them re-build what needs to be done, tuned and checked on a dyno or in a test vehicle. They will send it back as a complete matching set. Pay a correctly qualified mechanic to install everything as it should be and drive away. Chances are you will get 3 or 4km down the road, then car jacked anyway... so why bother? 3. Were back to the '84 300C.... no one will want to steal that. I have friends in SA, if your in that area that may be able to help. But honestly with your attitude why would they bother? J.

well I'd better check out the holset thread... Power is easy to make, but how long are they going to last and howmuch are they loosing under the curve? Diesel turbo's are designed to work with less heat and much slower shaft speeds. I still cant see how you could compare a secondhand diesel turbo to a comparatable second hand garret, PT, borgwarner, hell even an old air reaserch or a KKR turbo... Better check it out. Cheers Justin

+2 for adding a turbo to quiet the whole shbang down... induction and exhuaust sound!

Don't let your 'mate' anywhere near your car! ... the NA thread is allways good for a laugh.

For the love of god why? I hope it's not a performance application. Reliable, we'll designed performance turbo's are so cheap- Precision turbo and engine have billet comp wheel, plain bearing performance turbo's for around 1300aud!!! If your trying to cut the cost on a turbo set up, by using a diesel turbo- you really should re-think the whole idea. Diesel turbo's are generally designed for slow shaft speeds, to feed long stroke slow moving engines, whith low hp outputs for the size. But hey, your going to do it anyway- cheers Justin

... yassis broo, move out of Africa! in all seriousness, get an engine built by a reputable builder in Aus or Nz. Get them to tune it and run it in on the engine dyno. Then have the engine and tuned ecu sent to you to be bolted in. Rob from RIPS in NZ has alot of cars shipped to him to be worked on... He dose fantastic work.

is it a replacment for a diesel...? on are you putting it on a petrol engine?

We owned an AMG C36 brand new. It was ordered with AMG E55 running gear and brakes in red with black leather and carbonfiber inside. The car was never delivered and sat at the dealership for 4 months, untill we picked it up. It was a quick car, especially back then. Beautiflly constructed. Handling was very well ballanced and predictable... The car was regularly driven on a Targa Tasmania stage (work was at the end of it). It was quiet and smooth over 240km/h ha ha ha. ahh... the good old days. It was much much quicker than my mildly modified r31 coupe (around 215rwkw). Hope that helps, Cheers Justin

I'd like to see a pair of ceramic bb, billet 5557's with the smaller V band exhaust housing, on a 26.... they have an awsome surge ported 4in intake comp cover option too. I'll post up as soon as I get results on my rb25/5557 combo. Cheers Justin