caminperth

Jaff could be right here. I had the same sort of problem and changed the factory ecu out for another and it fixed it. It could be that the VVT solenoid is not being given the correct signal by the ecu, hence causing the flat spot. It was for mine anyhow...

The starter motor isn't throwing out the starter gear enough to engage with the flywheel so it's just grinding against it. Kind of like when you're using a drill to do up a phillips head screw and it skips. Sounds like the starter motor needs looking at and possibly lubricating at the gear end so it can throw it out properly.

Have you checked the clutch hydraulic fluid level?

There is a K&N rep in Perth who carries every model you can get I think. I've got his card at home somewhere. I'll dig it up...

I was looking for an appropriate price check pic to post here but found this instead..

@ Adrian...

Ossie - exactly what I'm worried about with him... maybe he's going to move on from an appreciation thread to a "I'm out of the closet" thread?

Anyone think about it being a a 10+ year old motor and that it's wearing out? Twice as bright, half as long, specially if someone has done it before you.. and all that?

No problems. Thanks for the PM. Hope to see it very soon. Cam

Refer to the plug threads in the Forced Induction section.

Jason - you're soft. You've had your 'line for long enough to learn this stuff for yourself..

Tim, I've sent a PM requesting you confirm that you have recieved payment and that the pump is on it's way to me. I haven't had a reply yet, but maybe you haven't been on the forums for a few days. Can you please confirm the pump has been sent. Regards, Campbell

David - read my post. I tried to contact him via sms, got no reply. and whats winging anyway?

What Roy said. If it's only one bearing it's not worth it till it really really really gets noisy as it should do too much damage to the gearbox if it completely blows. I've had bearings completely colapse to the point of ball bearings coming out when I drained the oil and there was no damage to the box. It'll be ok for now.

Managed to do two within half an hour when changing the pulley arrangement over from my R33 engine to my R34 engine. Both out of the car, both jammed with a screwdriver. What you need to do is apply a shock force as Marriott said. Applying a steady increasing force won't do the trick. Get an 18" bar and a gimpy/copper hammer and belt it a few times. Here's a question, are you actually trying it anticlockwise or clockwise?

Sent SMS with offer but no reply. Is this stuff still available?

Paul - thanks. I'm pretty surprised it started to be honest. Dave - seemed to. The things that aren't plugged in are the canister purge solenoid, the intake warming valve (under the plenum) and the VVT. It idled fine and reved ok with minimal miss that cleaned itself up after a few minutes running. I tried loading it up with the aircon to see if the idle control was working and it seemed to go fine - no hint of stalling. Things left to do before getting a tune are: 1. Install new fuel pump as I'm guessing the R34 fuelling requirements are more than my stock 10 year old pump can deliver. 2. Install new engine bay fuel lines as the R33 one's seem a bit shorter so are a bit stretched at the moment. 3. Get hold of a plug to suit the VVT of find some other way of connecting it up. Hopefully the guy I bought the engine off isn't using the plug. 4. Modify the way the throttle cable is mounted or try to shorten it at the accelerator pedal as it is too long at the moment. 5. Work out if the R33 computer and the HKS 5 dial fuel and ignition controllers will be able to do the job to run this thing and if not, decide on what sort of engine management to use. I've been reading up and the choice in Perth seems to be the PFC as the Wolf seems to have fallen out of favour. Shame really as from the manuals I've read the Wolf looked like it might suit and had a few more functions.

It's ALIVE!

ITS ALIVE! Sorry, had to say it...

It would achieve what most of them do.. a whole lot of noise and not much else..

crate - you have pm.

Thanks. Hopefully it'll be running tonight/tomorrow. Will report back with progress.

I'm confused. Have a look at this thread - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...?t=75443&page=2 Information taken from the NGK Aust website. No mention of the BCPR series plugs..

From NGK Aust website.. R34 I assume from the year. R33, again I guess from the year.. R32, same criteria.. I'm using BCPR7ES coppers at the moment, but the BCP and BKR don't get a mention? I've never heard of anyone on these forums use the type PFR before?