SKY 34

kunjeng is correct on the temperature volume and pressure relationship in diesel engine you don't need a spark plug as the diesel will detonate on its own due to the pressure.. if you have water under high pressure it'll boil on itself however I'm not sure if heat loss is going to affect the energy change much...the exhaust spends only a split second in the housing before going out and the housing and dump pipe would eventually gets close enough to the exhaust temperature under operation, so will the dump pipe... maybe as the engine go from cold start there is a large temperature gradient across, however at constant operation I'd think the difference is hardly noticable unless you kinda go hard acceleration and sudden slow down... and hard acceleration again...sorta cycle thing unless on track don't think will ever go into such extremities with heat shield the temperature across will be higher.... without heat shield the temperature will be lower, gradient remains the same I think the main key to turbo operation is the nozzle size, the inducer and exducer ratio, how small the size of the nozzle when exhaust come into the housing and how big the exducer is..and the exhaust to compressor ratio... and with regards to the blanket cracking the housing, that will happen if you dissipate heat too fast...if you pour hot water into a glass, empty it and immediately put ice in it..the glass will crack, try it at home~~...so retaining the heat and slowly dissipating it will not cause the housing to crack...if temperature is too hot, it'll melt but I think housing are of course design for these temperatures..

I think we are going all the way to the front, the headlight...this one looks bad >< that is a very cold weather

I'm concerned about legalities, I've been told that OZ spec Tein will pass the pit and you can actually get permit for it.. I'm located in W.A

hey, may I ask what hp are you working on, that 600cc is too small?

wasn't the seats Zeta III before? now it's Vio

where did you get carbon drive shaft?

my one fell off halfway driving thru freeway..the most eerie sound ever, having to wrech to undo the bold, have to let the thing scrape all the way home >< painfull painfull my balls hurts

heys, I think TeiN produced an OZ tuned Super Street Suspensions, whose selling those? I have looked around can only find the jap ones~~

well I'm good to go..but west seem to be able to find a cheaper source...up to you guys I guess...he said he'll be able to get a sample next week

well it works with discounted red bulls

that's good cheap and will set your engine on fire... hot stuff!! http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Turbo-Cover-Beanie_...1QQcmdZViewItem

umm I read about heatshield on hot4s as well its saying opposite thing, the heatshield is installed on top mounts though probably different thing cus top mount is closer to intake...

I'm preety sure its illegal $10,000 fine I think same as removing airbag steering wheel...as dan mentioned, you can have the set up in the engine bay but cannot be connected to a nos bottle....can try blowing air as you drive.. puff puff~~

heya, anyone has got CAMS lisence? how do you get those? what forums are CAMS affiliated in W.A? cheers

I went through the list for the met finish dials, they don't have the ones for R34GTT can you confirm? thanks

curious where did you get your impul body kit?

I'm not sure about this one, either way if only part of the exhaust is changed, the airflow restriction is there...there is no point changing catback only, the dump front pipe already restrict the flow... the same with changing front pipe and when the exahust reaches the catback, flow is restricted... actually where does the droning come from? sound resonation due to pipe length? or because of the the type of resonator used... actually I'm thinking if we can obtain the db of the exhaust, in theory we could get the wavelength and custom a pipe length such that the exhaust ends at a softer zone...if my physic serves me right...

yeah they smell kinda pungent...I'll make sure I work with those anti terrorist mask..

hi, umm I want to get an oil catch can, but not sure which one to get the 500ml or the 1l ones, plus there are three pipe sizes 9mm, 15mm and 19mm. which one to get?

I just ordered Blitz Nur...don't they come with the resonator to reduce the sound?

I'll have to wait, West seems to be able to supply at cheaper rate..I'm not sure if the GB is still going to happen

thanks for reply..wil try out soon after exam...

hi, I'm aiming somewhere around 350rwhp first stage and after rebuild somewhere about 450-500rwhp range what fuel injectors should I use? - red 740cc injectors - purple 600cc injectors are these vehicle specific or universal? cheers

I end up getting my body kit with Carquest in northbridge somewhere. Wouldn't recomend them tho. Price are chaep but took about 5 weeks + 1 week to fit for me, when they promise me somewhere about 2weeks delivered and fitted. how bout www.carmate.com they have vast options, I'm going to get a front bat off them soon some forums traders also sell cheap body kits. Look out for them

hiya, I'm trying to make my own fibreglass interior middle panel thingy, the radio stuff. The idea is to use plaster to mould the interior panel from the inside, then do a reverse mould. and add some custom bits into the plaster. Get fibreglass resin and voila.. the problem is, I have no idea how fibreglass works...I have seen those fibreglass pack thingy sold in bunning, do I get one of these and it'll work? or do i need like a seperate resin to stuck everything together? I intend to make a sort of "sliding panel" to hide my head unit, so the fibreglass section have to be thin. From what I have read so far, I need to sand the fibreglass to get smooth surface. but if my fibreglass is thin, I think it'll crack the moment I sand it... can I just spray a really thick layer of primer making everything smooth? How do i get the super glossy look the audio shops produce when painting the panels? cheers