SKY 34

I think it's RB25...

11 woul have been good if it's without the FF GTR...just sent a message across that we are ricers >< 7 is too simple no 2...right side is abit oldish~~ I agree I voted 13... but they are all bloody nice....yeah should have changing barners...not all of them but like the selected top few winners?

this is important..lol dun get the GTT with factory Nismo big ass spoiler!! because that spoiler made 12 holes at the back of your car... I used rubber plugs for those holes ><

huumm even if you have turbocharged cars..dun put BOVs ...they increase fuel consumption, reduce perfomance and may cause car to stall.... sadly I didn't know these and had one installed in my car...the difference..a stock GTT can go approximately 400km full tank....mine goes only 350km also apparently stock GTT suppose to have abt 206hp..my best dyno only 200hp...

Paul, what if the knock does not appear at a consistant rpm? sometimes it happens, sometimes not... I have knocking problem as well...pfc....highest is 95...I think...it's not consistent tho..unfortunately I dun have the cash to re-tune atm...so I'm always using octane boost...hoping mite help... but soon be not viable..petrol prices driving me mad these days...

hummm I find tha the biggest problem with cars odometer wound back...is the difficulty to identify the kms done on the timing belt... what if the car has done 120,000km and wind back all the way to 30,000...once timing belt snaps..whole car's a junk...nyways, it's true that you can wind back odemeter...electronic ones,,,

hey, got a problem here, has anyone use trust profac B-spec II on R34 GTT before? I got one unit to be fitted with Apexi pfc ECU...the boost would not hold..I've seen the dyno result..whenever boost hits 0.9bar, it just dive down, the device I thought was faulty...The tuner is X-speed in W.A...they have spend the whole day trying to tune the damn thing...and even told me that they had another experienced mechanics in to take a look at the connection and such.....but still couldn't figure what is wrong with it..... so I sent back to gR33ddy whom i got the boost controler from to be tested by trust I got news from gR33ddy that the boost controler is not faulty??? huh??? so tuner said it's faulty and seller say it's not....wtf is this.... back to topic..is this just because profac cannot be fitted on GTTs? or am I getting screwed by one of the party involved...

I have no money till June or so...lol postpone as long as possible!!

Light dimming, obviously you do not have enough power for the system you are using. Earthing is really important…use the Raizin Volt stabilizer, see if it is enough http://www.the-pivot.co.jp/product/se/raizin-e.html If not, it entirely depends on the usage of your sound system… If you listen a lot to music with heavy bass such as R&B where a lot of power is required for the subs then you’ll need a good battery and a capacitor. On the other hand if you listens to Michael buble, or Norra Jones, where minimal bass is required, then a good battry is sufficient However before buying do consider these... 1- cheap capacitor a sub-quality capacitor provides extra power in the form of pulse...so it's not a continuous thingy...like what frx026 said....prolly 10secs? you can get these for abt $150? 2- Good quality capacitor A better quality capacitor provides continuous power...however these cost around $350 and on top of that these capacitors are thirsty..they store the power for Infrequencies (when you turn on your sub hard)....the alternator in turn take more power from the battery... The battery is meant to be charged by the alternator..howerver the capacitor will suck more power than the alternator could generate…which results in having a flat battery within 1-2 month 3-Installing good quality battery Usually a more expensive battery are designed to go flat charged and flat and charged…for multiple charging… i.e you can always have a jump starter pack and when battery went flat just jump start. 4- Installing good quality battery The amps will draw power straight from the battery depending on the type of amps you’ve got…there are two types… a) where watts depends a lot on voltage (such as Soundstream) b) where watts does not depend so much on voltage (such as JL) For type a) small battery would affect the sound quality substantially….. 5- Most importantly The capacitor although stores power, In the end the power source come from the battery.. having a good capacitor with a bad battery will be pointless…

hey's heard abt the cancelling lisence thingy if you speed over 20km/hr? well we've got to start an Union or sumthing....lol...we are getting stepped all over....

hehey..same thread ><...I was also wondering if it is possible to have dry sump... I think the stock oil pan has to go...one of the advantage of a dry sump is to lower your engine mounting position....so removing the bulkier stock oil pan can bring down the centre of gravity of the engine hence the car... the oil can can be mounted anywhere in the car the size can go as large as you want only, dun know the minimum size tho, I'd guess not smaller in volume than a standard oil sump? the dry sump is definitely better than the wet setup... http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question331.htm

actually..jsut realised this topic is discussed few thread ealier~~ http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...opic=113590&hl=

huh? why is that? because they dun sell the parts or because it's illegal?

come across an article on dry oil sump in engine...sounds really fantastic to me... it enables the bulkier oil pan to be removed, shift the engine position down more for stability.....claimed to be able to increase power by approx 15hp...has anyone done this b4? or skylines comes with dry sumps? http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question331.htm sound fantastic~~

I read sumwhere that a ticking noise means knocking....prolly sumthing causes your engine to burn really lean..esp with boost control problem you are having...need to verify this tho..I'm not very sure

urathane vs fibreglass bodykit? fibreglass lightweight will crack upon impact copies readily available (cheaper) urathane heavier will dent upon impact bloody expensive no copies available

that's top secret front bar http://www.uniqueautosports.com/Images1a/G...retgtrfront.jpg

prolly have two different typees of alarm installed? one for remote start...and the other which cuts the fuel as soon as it senses the engine on when key not in position?

yes it is possible...I don't know the details but I've seen pics of the monitor on the GTT....not sure if it does work tho...

east bear kit...make your 4 door look like GTR

I got it tuned in X-speed in W.A...they are reputable...no ticking noise so far.. the problem is the knocking is on and off...and it gets worse and worse..initially only 5th gear...now gets to 4th and 3rd gear as well...the mapping should not change..I didn't touch anything..

If i'm not wrong...you need to change your ECU to change an AFM...

HI, a while ago I had this problem with my engine shutting down without stalling ..just off.. So I set my hand controler to monitor knocking figure.. I noticed that some times...when accelerating at 4th or 5th gear, the engine light will flash quite a lot..and the knock sensor bar thingy went above half 3/4 the bar at some event....is this because of bad tuning? It sometimes flashes sometimes not...so to prevent damage I got myself octane boost... it help a bit...but at times the engine light still flashes..it gets more and more frequent anyone has this problem.. it's on R34...lightly moded...only pfc, 2.5" xhaust, CAI box, pod advice please thanks

bump

I got a permit for my GT wing....for yours, there are no sharp edges...jsut the mounting position and the width. your spoiler sticks out from back of boot and the width is wider than the vehicle... so cannot get a permit..