TokyoTaxi

You can get new belts from Repco but make 100% sure you get the right ones. Take your belts off and get them to match them in not only length, but also in width and style of V grooves. I've seen an R33 that got the wrong V Groove style and the belt turned into pieces of rubber coated string in 4 days without even making a sound ( NO WARNING ). It was only that I spotted a piece of the belt hanging down under the car. I know not everyone can afford to do it, but I just buy genuine belts and change them all at once to avoid hassles for a long time. As for that Belt Grip stuff, IMHO, avoid using it all together !! It's sticky spray that attracts dirt, dust and sand VERY WELL and in the end, will wear your belts out even faster. It's really only a band-aid solution. Do the job right the first time and you'll save yourself more hassles down the track.

Hard to say exactly but I'd guess around 20,000km. It also saw 7 track days, about 5 skid pans & a bit ( not too much ) peak hour bumper-to-bumper use and was still going strong when removed

When I had my HR31 ( RB20DET ), the alternator died and I got a new BOSCH one that fitted straight up and worked a treat. It also had an externally removable voltage regulator ( very handy ). I'll see if I can find the part number.

I had really bad squeeling problems. Took the pads out and cleaned the contact faces ( and the pads in general ), cleaned the entire caliper including the slide area and cleaned all the shims etc. I then got the discs machined, made sure everything was tight etc and put it all back together again. I went for a long hard drive through the nasho and tried to get them heated & bedded but no joy, they squeeled as bad as ever. Anyway, during the last Putty Rd cruise I got the opportunity to put some "REAL" heat into the pads and rotors. I'm talking about at least 1/2 hour of hard driving using the brakes a lot. Since then, they make a little bit of a squeel for the first 5 minutes of driving and then they're dead quite !! So...... my suggestion is to find a nice long drive ( or track day ) and get the pads and rotors really hot ( bed them in like you're teaching them a lesson ) ALso, I'm running Winmax Pads and Zeal Straight 6 rotors. Before them I had EBC pads and rotors which I bedded in around Eastern Creek and they never made a noise after that day.

I've had the AAC valve off, apart and back together and I learned a few things ( the hard way ). Firstly, if you pull it apart, don't MODIFY anything !! If you pull it apart completely, clean it all up and put it back together EXACTLY the way it was. Also, it's not the easiest thing to get apart and back together so I would suggest grabbing one from a wreckers and doing all the work on "it". Then if all goes well you can just swap units over and then clean up your old one and sell it Firstly, take the solenoid valve off ( and the o-ring ) and put them aside. Now, when you look at the valve body, you will see a big blob of like hard wax. If you carefully remove that wax stuff, underneath you find a big brass screw / blank. Clean all the wax stuff out INCLUDING the stuff in the thread ( very important ). VERY carefully remove that screw, counting exactly how many full turns you get before it comes out ( cause that's how many turns you gotta do when you put it back it ). Once that's out, the valve and spring will fall out and you can clean them ( and the inner body area ) completely. DO NOT stretch the spring when cleaning it !! Once all that is clean, re-asseble it all with a tiny drop of low strength locktite on the thread. Once you've put that big screw back in, you can remove the smaller screw next to the big one ( making sure you count the turns again ) and clean all that up and re-assemble. Just clean the solenoid with electrical cleaner / solvent and then re-install it ( making sure you put the o-ring back on with a little vaso or rubber grease). Make sure the gasket is OK ( if not, make a new one out of gasket paper ) and re-install the valve and off you go !! If you've made a mistake, you'll know about it pretty fast

Fantastic thread Brad !! I really wish I had done the same thing along the way ( only got pics of the finished product ). Fingers crossed for you for the rest of the project.

They'll have their work cut out for them !! Some of those teams ( Viper & Corvette guys ) are very well sorted and FAST !!

When they say it's 40% lighter, it's in reference to the STR2CD being 40% lighter pedal feel than the TS2CD ( and it is ). The STR2CD is actually very close to a stock GT-R clutch pedal pressure.

Just to keep things even, I'd like to add that I just received my 3rd order from Brent and I'm very pleased with the service !! This last order ( full set of pads ) was ordered on the 10th of Feb and I got them yesterday 22 Feb so I have no complaints. BTW, my other orders were processed in the same fashion. I know some of you have had some problems but lets be fair and report the good WITH the bad.

Aus Best ( actually a guy contracted by them ) rolled my gaurds and did a great job ! I'm pretty sure they won't actually PUMP your gaurds though. And as always with this type of job, it is done with the risk of your paint cracking which they will accept no responsibility for ( I think I actually signed a waiver prior to the job starting ). But yeah, the did a good job

Same here ! Pennzoil Full Synthetic 5W-50 for the last year or two and no problems. I Use the OEM filters. I think as long as you don't forget the OEM spec, and work around them, you can't go wrong far wrong. NISSAN recommend their oil which is 7.5W-30 from memory with 3,000km oil change intervals for a GT-R in Australian conditions. So, anything that has a cold weight of 7.5W or better ( eg 5W or 0W ) and hot weight of 30W or better ( 40W or 50W ) should do the trick. But like someone has already said, having ENOUGH oil is THE most important thing.

Simon, I'm using the new OS Giken STR2CD at the moment and so far I can't complain. It has lived up to my expectations so far ( only been in the car for 3-4 months ). Before that I was using the OS Giken TS2BD which also worked really well and I even tried the OS Giken R3C ( Tripple Plate ) but that was just insane for anything other than drag racing !! The STR2CD is equal pedal feel / pressure to a stock GT-R clutch once everything has settled. It's VERY drivable in traffic and locks up hard when you let go. I'll admit, it's a huge amount overkill being a 600hp clutch in a 300hp car but at the end of the day, it feels great, works great and I know my clutch will never slip !! :lol: I believe that the clutches from Jim Berry would most likely be the best bang for your buck on the market but at the time I was replacing my clutch I didn't know enough about what he had available so I stuck with the OS range. A huge plus with the OS clutches is that everything but the flywheel bolts are supplied brand new as part of the kit. So, there's no sending your old parts away and waiting for them to come back and then wondering exactly what you're going to get, how it's going to fit and what the end result will be. With the OS clutch, you remove your old set-up, bolt in the OS and it works !! As for life span of the last OS I had fitted, I purchased the TS2CD 2nd hand in Japan and just cleaned it up and fitted it. I used the clutch for about 3 years of hard driving and when I removed it, it still had 2/3 of the meat left on it so I could have re-fitted it, but I expected it to be worse and already bought the new one so just went ahead and fitted it. I still have the TS2BD and will put it back in when the STR2CD dies. And just to clarify, I also purchased the R3C 2nd hand in Japan and fitted it before the TS2CD as an experiment, but that lasted all of 1 month The R3C was snapped up by a mate who's still using it today in a 420awkw R32 GT-R.

The TS2CD & TS2BD are now superceded by the STR2CD ( I'm using this ATM ) and like R31Nismoid said, they are a bit of an overkill but it depends on what you want / like. The difference is: TS2BD = Pressed Steel Cover, Twin Plate, 204mm Plate Dia with Damper Springs TS2CD = Pressed Steel Cover, Twin Plate, 215mm Plate Dia with Damper Springs Oh and the kit includes the Lightened Flywheel, Clutch Assy, Thrust Bearing Carrier & Thrust Bearing. Basically everything you need except the flywheel bolts ( use your OEM ones ).

This is only my opinion on how to choose a clutch but I think it works really well. Once you've figured out what you want / need in a clutch, then pay a "decent" amount of money and get a "decent" clutch that meets your needs ( even if that means not getting those 24" chrome wheels for another 2 months ). If you buy the CORRECT clutch, you will enjoy driving your car more, the clutch will last longer causing less headaches in the long run and you won't risk causing damage to your car ( killing the pedal box welds, master cylinder or slave cylinder or killing the gearbox itself ). Honestly answer questions like.......... - What power do I want it to handle ? - Where do I do most of my driving ? ( Cruising, Commuting, Drag Racing etc. ) - What is my driving style ? ( Smooth, Agressive, Both etc. ) - What kind of pedal feel do I want ? ( Heavy Button Style, Progressive/Stockish, Progressive/Heavy etc. ) - What CAN I honestly afford ? ( 24" rims scenario ) Once you know what you need, find out what's available that meets your needs ( heaps of guys on here can recommend something that fits your needs once you are specific about what you want ) and then buy it. Do this instead of saying "I've got $500 to spend on a clutch. What's the best I can get ?" and you'll be a lot happier in the long run. :end rant:

I "HAD" this problem with a high flowed RB25 turbo ( T3/T4 internals ) that GCG made up for me. Used to build boost and then start rapidly choofing ( surging ). When I got it back off them after the 3rd time, I just sold it as opposed to trying it out again, purchased a genuine HKS GT25/35 and hey presto............. Problem solved !!

Sorry for digging up an old post but just to let everyone know, the part numbers are indeed correct and to replace these seals is unbelievably easy !! I changed mine on the weekend ( total job took less than 1 hour ) and they look heaps better !!

It had a ground up refurbishment after it's last race ( and has never been raced since ) so at a guess, considering it's condition ( unf***in believable ) and racing heritage ( just say "GODZILLA" ), I would suggest you would be pushing some big 6 figure $'s to get your hands on it ( if Terry would ever part with it ) If he did I know I'd be in morning for a long time

We'll come say Hi for sure !! ( right after they start selling coffee ) 55mm S/D Webers !?!?!?!? Good thing the races only go for a few laps :lol: Oh that would sound SOOO sweet @ 100% throttle ( in car ) !!

I must say, I can't remember that exact car but it looks classic / sweet !! 42mm S/Draft Webers ?? ( licks lips ) Will make a point of saying Hi at the next meet

What car / driver are you in with Richard ?

Actually, no I don't. Hooks ( 31GUN ) usually calls me a week or 2 out to remind me and that's when I lock it in my woefull memory Hooks is going to post up the dates as soon as he confirms them with Terry. Cancel all that above. Thanks Richard Everyone try to get out there and watch the historicals race. It's what REAL race cars should look and sound like !!!! Not like that Ford vs. Holden crap nowdays

I'll most likely be out there with Hooks helping Terry with the car so I'll see you there too If any of you forum guys come out, drop in and say Hi. Always good to see a couple of Skyline supporters in amoungst the Holden masses.

When they last had the BIG historical day ( at E/Creek ), I'm pretty sure I saw one out there. <_<

So sad !!!! I've had the pleasure of parking my butt in the drivers seat of that DR and it gave me goosebumps !! The car is in "as is" condition, fresh from it's last race 15 odd years ago and it still has all the race car appeal that it did when I saw it race around the mountian so many years ago........ Oh how I wish I had the money....... As for the EXA........... Well that car's just plain SCARY !!! Can you say "touque steer" ??? No wonder Fred gave it to Christine to drive

I'm on the "mesh it" side !! But if you've got a set-up that supports the installation of a low cost intercooler ( eg Just Jap one ) then who needs mesh ?? Just replace the cooler every year if required. I've got a Trust V-SPL so a piece of mesh works out a whole lot cheaper than a new cooler for me. As far as the "show" factor is concerned, let's be honest, having a big shinny intercooler up front means almost nothing now days. It's like having a cannon hanging out the back. When every second Hyundai Excel that drives by has one, it's no longer cool !!