TokyoTaxi

OK, so does anyone have the nissan P/No. please ?

I've read all 21 pages and unless I missed something I didn't see the confirmed info that I need. For an R32 GTS-T w/RB20DET, could someone please tell me some "FACTS" regarding O2 Sensor part number, price and place of purchase ?? I want one that is a direct replacement. EG. Brand: NTK, P/No. OZA395-E2, Buy at REPCO, $145 Thanks.

CEF11E, I'm interested in: 4 x IBM 765D (selling for $100 each) 72MB ram 3GB hard drive CD rom 13.1 TFT screen Couple of Q's: Do these have a USB port ? Are batteries available for these ( and charger ) ? Will this run NISSAN Datascan well ? ( the real reason I need it ) Cheers. P.S. I'm in Sydney.

"Genuine" Nismo wheels should be no problem to get engineered !!

Update time. Replaced Ignition Control Module, no joy. Replaced TPS ( complete Throttle Body w/TPS fitted ) and it's slightly better but not fixed. Going to try cleaning AFM next and if that doesn't work I'll check the coils ( 3-4 year old Splitfire's ).

You'll need to source an Automotive Engineer ( check links from RTA website ). If you can't find any, let me know and I'll see if I can dig up some QLD names for you. The wheels must be in good condition ( overall ) and MUST have all the relative info either stamped, forged into or printed on a sticker and stuck onto the rim detailing size, "JJ" standard ( safety rim ) and some other stuff. Many cheap wheels that people buy do not have this info and can not be engineered. They will also check the fitment to your car making sure that the center of the wheels is supporting the load and not just the wheels nuts/studs. They will also make sure that the offset is not excessive, and will not cause premature bearing failure.

To whomever it was that PM'd me ( sorry, I deleted your PM and I have the memory of a goldfish ) here's the new tyre placard I was talking about ( and the original one ). Some people who have had their car engineered did not get one of these so I'm not sure if you should have got one or not. To everyone else, sorry for digging up an old post

Picked it up from the post office on Friday arvo, grabbed some gaskets and installed it Saturday ( while draining engine oil ) and it fitted up perfectly !! Even the bung for the temp probe worked like a charm. What surprised me, was that there "IS" a genuine, noticeable performance increase ( not huge but it's there !! ). Turbo also spools faster. I removed the old Catco High Flow 3" cat and checked it out and it still looked to be in very good condition so I didn't honestly expect any performance increase by fitting the Magic one. Very happy customer here !!

So.... are these correct ? 80834-04U00, Weatherstrip Front Door Inside, RH 80835-04U00, Weatherstrip Front Door Inside, LH

Engine: Pennzoil Full Synthetic 5W-50. Changes every 5K + Filter. G/Box: Redline Shockproof Lightweight. Change @ every Clutch change Diff: Castrol LSX 90 (?). Change every 40K Coolant: Tectalloy 60 or 90 (?). Change every 40K Brake Fluid: Motul RBF. Change every 10K Hope that helps

Is there a simple way to test these units without the need for a Vane Osciliscope etc. ?

Ryno, same with me ! I'll pick it up today. siksII, again mate, cheers for the great GB !! Very smooth and great price !! Cheers also to Magic Performance for their part ! Now......to get my hands dirty

Hmmm. OK I'll give them a call. Anyone special to speak to ? BTW, ryno, you got yours yet ?

I've had one snap. I grabbed a very good condition second hand one and grabbed a can of motorcycle chain lube and sprayed as much as I possibly could down the guts, repeating this every minute or so until evidence of the lube started coming out the other end. Installed it and so far so good ( 3 years on ). BTW. I used motorcycle chain lube cause it sprays in as a liquid and penetrates well then solidifies somewhat to a grease consistency.

Meaning Ignition Control Module ( x 1 ) bolted on the back of the valley / coil cover or the ignition coils ( x 6 ) themselves ?

Exactly ! If you can prove that the Pivot version works "better" than the non-Pivot version OR prove an inherent fault or product deficiency with the non-Pivot units, I'm sure people will buy the Pivot ones.

Interested to hear some results as I sometimes get this too. Usually after a really good heat soak it misfires a bit ( only at idle ). Also, after shutting down for 5 mins or so and then re-starting it hunts till I start driving again then it settles. BTW I'm running 0.8mm gapped PFR6A11's and have Splitfire Coilpacks and I'm "guessing" they're not the problem.

Just curious, are we ( ryno & I ) likely to see ours before xmas ? Not buggin or hasseling etc. Just wondering cause I've got to do a service soon and it would be great to install the big cat while it's off the ground.

So, by now someone must have fitted a bodykit to their 32 and has a pair of these rear flaps sitting around doing nothing, just waiting for me to give them a new home

Call Just Jap in NSW. Pretty sure they can help you out !

If you want some nice new ones I know Just Jap in NSW sell em.

Thats the best modified example of a Renault I've seen lately

Or ....... Build an RB20DET with higher compression and lower boost and limit the revs to say 7K ??? ( Similar concept to the Gibson RB26DETT )

BTW The rods in the RB20DET-R in the HR31 GTS-R Gibson race car were stock so that should give you some indication of strength. ( Yes they were shot peened ).

I'm 99.99% sure it's a standard RB20DET oil pump. Mind you, my mate worked at nissan and got me the parts so he might have slipped me a bigger pump <_< I'm not keen on restricting the oil to the upper engine as I've seen a few sets of cams getting chewed from doing this ( wrong size / blocked restrictor maybe ? ). From what I understand, you can just bolt the bear head onto the bear block and port out the return galleries. This is supposed be the best fix for the problem