TokyoTaxi

A bit over the top for me also but if the 32 comes up for sale I'll be contacting the black market to see what a kidney goes for

That stuff works "instead of" shims, yeah ??

I don't think this is just an "Bendix Ultimates" issue. I'm currently running Winmax pads with Zeal Straight Six rotors and they squeel like a stuck pig !! I got my hands on a full set of Nismo pads and they did exactly the same thing so I then went and got the discs machined to eliminate them as a cause and with both sets of pads ( around 100km use on the machined discs with each set of pads ) I still got the squeeling problem. I then pulled the calipers & disc rotors off, swapped the direction of the rotors, cleaned the pad running area of the calipers, cleaned the shims and cleaned the pads ( including roughing the pad friction area ) and guess what It still squeels !! I'm now going to pull it all apart again and try some copper grease in all the suspect areas. After that, I'm out of ideas. One thing I will say ( I'm not saying this is the answer ) is that when I had the EBC Greenstuff pads and EBC Turbogroove rotors fitted I never got any noise and almost no dust !!

Do you have an example ? These are the ones I'd like but at like $400 I'll pass http://www.nengun.com/catalogue/product/769

In NSW the minimum dia allowed to fit is 350mm. Just went through engineering and found that out.

So was there some "super strange" problem or was it one of those "super stupid" things that we all do ?? Remember, we all learn from eachother's mistakes.

I'd like to get some exactly like the pics if I can but I'll keep ya in mind. Cheers.

As per the title I'm wanting to buy a pair of R32 GTS-T Mud Flaps in Factory Nissan, Black Pearl Metallic. Pics attatched are exactly what I want. PM if ya got a pair ya wanna sell

Hard to confirm that without actually seeing it but I know mine was making the wrong noises and the clutch engagement / disengagement point was all wrong until I got the correct carrier / bearing combo. ( Note: those part numbers come directly from the O.S.Giken catalogue ) With the bolts, check exactly how much needs to be cut off. I'm a bit concerned that you actually got to the point of running the car and possibly not having the bolts securely holding the flywheel / clutch on ! That itself might be where the wear came from.

To install the OS Twin ( Push Type ) You will need a different thrust bearing carrier being Nissan P/No. 30501-U0200 and use with Nissan Thust Bearing P/No. 30502-14601. Make sure you also have the correct Flywheel to Crankshaft bolts ( shorter than the normal nissan ones by like 6mm ). You can cut yours to suit if prefered. You should not need anything else.

I don't think I'd like to try my luck installing a twin plate with that tool. It does not align the splines of each clutch plate Best thing to do ( IMO ) is to post in the WTB section asking for a dead gearbox ( with the input shaft still OK ) and you then pull the box apart to retrieve the input shaft ( don't really need to know what you're doing cause who cares, it doesn't have to be re-built ). You will then own the best clutch aligning tool around and you can loan it to your mates in exchange for beer !! Plus one of the BEST things in the world to do is pull something apart and never have to put it back together again ( Good education for the novice mechanic ).

Just adding my 2c. Something to keep in mind here is that they all work ( some better than other's ) for a single plate but when you get to installing a twin, triple or quad plate, you really do need a proper input shaft not only to align the plates to the spigot bush, but also to align the splines of each clutch plate to eachother. Now that's fun

Dwayne, Firstly ( and this is only my opinion ), if you're going to remove the turbo to do the gasket, do yourself a favour and pull the exhaust manifold off the head, replace any damaged / broken studs ( almost every RB seems to break the rear most manifold stud in time ) and the manifold gasket. As for the nuts holding the turbo on, just make sure that you use new / genuine lock tabs and gasket when putting the turbo back on ( gasket can be re-used a few times if OK ) and all should stay tight. Also make sure the studs are OK. Most of the cars that I've worked on that have had this problem have an old twisted set of lock tabs, are poorly bent / locking or none fitted at all. Again my opinion, use nissan genuine parts unless something better is available. It's worth spending a little bit extra to get quality ! ( I can't stand people who spend $600 on rice gear but won't spend an extra $10 to buy a quality gaskt !! <_< ) Not touching the oil subject. Sure to cause debate I know what I use in my car and those that I service and I'm happy Hope that helps.

Cheers razor I have no idea what any of that chicken scratch on the data plate means

Are those all correct ?? I thought my paint code was RC43 ( R32 GTS-T in Nissan Black Pearl Metallic ).

My bad ! Searched and found enough info to chuck that idea in the can. Cheers.

Stop Looking !!! Got one

You sick, twisted individual !! Time for you to stop spending $'s on the 31 and buy a Penthouse mag then off to Kings Court for a "special" massage. I'll tell them you're cumming Yeah, hear something about needing the following changes: - Different Tailshaft ( Which one, dunno ?? ). - Different Crossmember ( Which one, dunno ?? ). - Different Speedo Drive ( Heard something about a 94 Nissan Navara ?? ) I'm sure there are people who've done this on the forums. My box is stuffed and I'd rather do this mod than waste big $'s on rebuilding the RB20 box !!

Were you hanging out in the car park near the Kiama Blow last Sunday arvo ?

Maybe this ? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=15558

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=82934

Got my attention !! I can't begin to imagine what was involved in that project !!

As per the title, does anyone know what's involved in doing this swap ?? I've got an R32 GTS-T ( RB20DET ) and want to install a Gearbox from an R33 GTS-T ( RB25DET ). Would like to hear from people who have done it, know what's involved / required and what it cost's. Cheers.

WOW !! Looks like a hell of a lot of effort has gone into that project. Yeah, changing plugs would only want to be a once a year event

Is this the one you've been trying to sell previously ? Or do you have an actual R32 GT-R Boot Lid in original factory black ?