TokyoTaxi

G'Day Mark, Thanks for the offer but one of the guys from this forum has grabbed the valve out of my hot little hands and fitted it to his car already so I no longer own it The thing is, if I screwed the adjuster in ( not all the way of course ), the boost would hold but would not release pressure and she'd over-boost to about 1.5 bar ( 22 psi ). Backing off the adjuster 1/2 a turn at a time made no difference until a point where I'd backed it off another half turn and it then only made 0.5 bar ( 7.5 psi ). I pulled the valve off, chacked the ball and the seat, checked the fittings for obstructions and all was fine. I reinstalled the valve and tried it again with almost the same results. :confused: I removed it alltogether and re-installed the bleedvalve that was fitted before and it all behaved per normal. "Maybe" it has something to do with the HKS wastegate actuator I'm using which is preset to not open until 0.9 bar ( 13 psi ) ????? ( internal wastegate on this turbo ) Maybe it and the valve don't like each other :chairshot Anyway, no harm done and it was worth a try

Hey Mark, Essentially, it was connected to the boost pick-up point ( a fitting bleeding boost directly off the pipe leading back into the engine ( after the intercooler )) and the outlet of the bleed valve went directly to the wastegate actuator. I don't have a boost solenoid anywhere in the mix. Does that make sense ?

I went to a place that sells Caravan Leveling Blocks ( which are like car ramps but much smaller ). Just put them in front of the wheels, drive it up, put the parking brake on and then the jack ( mine is a 2.5 tonne trolley jack ) goes under no probs Just remember to lower the car back onto the block otherwise you won't be able to get the jack out when you're done. The same thing can be made out of a large piece of wood without too much hassle but I don't like wood cause it splits when it gets damp.

I service my own car ( but I'm a qualified mechanic and have all the tools etc. ) IMO If it's fun fiddly stuff on top, get some assistance and learn. But if you're planning on getting under a car and you really don't know what you're doing......don't !! Take it to a mechanic ! Example: About 4 and a half years ago a guy refused my help and did the work on his car himself only to have it fall on him which crushed his pelvis, hips and lower spine. He'll never walk again.

Just reporting back on the TOYO TP-G's. Dry: 8/10 Wet: 6/10 Value: 7/10 Tyres I've used which I'm comparing against: Falken ZE326, ZE512, FK451, RT215, FK-04 GRB, RS410 & Dunlop Le Mans. Comment: Prol spend a bit extra next time and get the TOYO T1-R's

:confused: I was just going to get one of those GReddy Profec B Spec 2 jobbies. No good ?

Here's some pics ( really crappy pics, I know ) showing 2 of the new nuts and the old ones on my wheels. You can see the scratches on the wheels which is why I got the new nuts ( normal nissan w/nuts 21mm & the new nuts 19mm ) no more socket damage to the wheels

It WAS installed correctly :uh-huh: All I can think is that since I'm running 1.2 bar ( 17.4 psi ) and I've got a HKS GT25/35 is that the boost pressure rises too fast for the spring pressure to hold accurately / smoothly. I kinda knew it wasn't going to work on my car before I even got it, but since it's already been sold to someone else and I only lost $10 on the deal it was worth a try. Oh well, EBC 4 me I guess

Yep :uh-huh: I just ordered 2 APEXi ones from Brett ! SK, are those filters dry or oiled ? Could'nt see any info on it.

Cheers

FYI, There are 2 types of overhaul kits for the OS Giken clutches. Chat to your local distributor and if you have no luck, let me know. I have the OS Giken booklet in front of me now. If you tell me what kind of clutch you have, I can tell you what's in the kit's and give you an idea of what the costs are ( in AUD ).

Where are you getting an Apexi Panel Filter for $100.00 ?? Interested as I'm going away from a pod and back to the box.

Width & offset are perfect fitment on my car And not everyone feels the need to fit their line with 24" chrome :Pimp2:

Sorry it took so long to get back to you all. He still has stuff for sale but he's jacked of all the "yeah I'll come around this arvo" and never show up twats. His phone number is 0418-233-525. Call him as I don't think he get's on SAU anymore. He now owns a Silvia

I will. Just got some work to do on the car this weekend, then I'll fit all the wheel nuts take some pics. The look strange on normal wheels IMO but with the wheels I've got, they look the $hit !! These are my wheels with standard nuts.

Tried 1 nut one the wheel to see how they look and if I may say so, they look SWEET !!! :wassup: Thanks for organising / running the group buy ed. Pos Trader Feedback left.

Agreed and I will buy an EBC soon, but for the money, it was worth a try

Feedback time and I'm hoping this will be taken as constructive feedback as that is how it's meant. Well, I installed this bleed valve in my HCR32 yesterday and went out on a road test to adjust it ( keeping in mind that I'm running a HKS GT25/35 and 1.2 bar of boost ) I spent about 40 minutes out on the open road trying to tune it but this valve doesn't seem to suit my requirements because I couldn't find a way to make it work. With the bolt ( adjuster ) screwed almost all the way out it was making 0.6 bar at best and with minor increments ( screwing in 1/4 turn at a time ) it was making no difference until 1 & 1/4 turns inwards. At this stage the boost spiked to 1.5 bar, fluctuated violently and then settled at 1.2 bar. I went as far as pulling the valve off and pulling it apart to ensure that all was OK and then went through the whole process again with much the same results I AM NOT saying this valve is bad but more stating that for higher boost applications, I found it to be unsuitable. If you're boosting a stocker, I'm confident that this valve would be good In summary, if anyone would like to buy this one off me, let me know as I'll sell it for $20 plus postage. PM me if interested.

As far as I know, 31 & 32 box's are renown for whining. That's why the good son of rajab gave us sound systems

Get a couple of good pics of em and I might take em off your hands as spares

I'd say those ones are the next generation of the ones I have as they state "Semi Solid Forged" where as mine say "Monoblock Forged Alloy" and mine do not have the red word "forged" on the sticker but hey, they look the goods. Selling price here is Aus was ( don't see them being sold new in Aus anymore ) around $400 - $450 per wheel.

Any luck yet ed ? Yell if I can help

They look the same as the ones I've got on my 32. If they are, they are A-Tech Monoblock Forged Alloys that have a sticker on them saying "Final Speed" I know more about the wheels if you need to / want to know. What's the go ? Do you just want to know what they are or are you looking to sell them or .....??

A few question........ 1. What is "Hi-Mu" and when would it be required ? 2. Are there any supporting requirements of these clutches ? Eg. With the O.S.Giken twin I'm using at the moment, there was a requirement to purchase a different Thrust Bearing, Thrust Bearing Carrier and take 3mm off the Flywheel Bolts.

Find every "Up Garage" you can and you'll find yourself in 2nd hand heaven !!!! "Autobacs" for new, general car stuff and if you're really nice they will both discount for multiple purchases. AND be prepared to get a lot of attention from Customs on your return to Aus.