TokyoTaxi

If you're in Syd and you'd like to make a reasonable offer I'm listening

Lucien, From what I understand, the structure for engineering is broken down into categories so if you have 5 mods in 1 category or 1 in 1 category it's the same price. In each category there are MANY variables of mods like bolt-on vs. fabrication. I would suggest that you find an engineer and get him ( or her ) to look over your car and have a chat with you about your car and the mods. You can then either walk away ( they won't go running off to dob you into the cops ) or find out a price for your car and proceed With the exhaust, they did not do an emission test but did do a decibel test. After you get your engineers certificate, you then have to get a blue slip done and an emissions check MAY be carried out then but I guess it's at the discretion of the workshop. After the blue slip, you then have to go to your motor registry and lodge the changes ( that parts free ) Hope that helps.

I'm not going to list every one of my car's modifications on an essentially public forum. But just to touch on some of the basic's. - Wheels & Tyres upgraded from 16"x 6.5" up to 17"x 8" and 17"x 9" with tyres to suit. - Complete Exhaust system. - Aftermarket Boost gauge and Shift light fitment. - FMIC. - Strut tower and Brake master cylinder braces. Things like that. But not what brand of oil / air filter or brand of shock absorber.

Gordon, I think I covered that one if you read my initial post carefully with words like "those specified by your state's laws"

Many But it's not only about what mods are done but also how they are done.

:werd:

My car is now fully engineered & LEGAL !! This may be common knowledge but it was news to me so I just thought I'd share this with all since most don't know that the car they are driving is not only illegal but also un-insured !! That's right, if you've modified your car from OEM and it's outside the limits of those specified by your state's laws, it's not legal and therefore not covered by the insurance policy you've paid for. Insurance companies are getting smarter and smarter and catching more people out every day. Un-disclosed traffic infringements, illegally modified vehicles etc, etc. Most people think that if they modify their car and tell their insurance company about the mods that all is fine, but as I found out, that's not the case. Doing this will cover the agreed value for replacement if stolen but if you have an accident and the accessor comes out to look at your car and finds that the modifications are not "legally compliant" he/she can void your insurance policy because most insurance policies state that the insured vehicle must be roadworthy and comply with the laws applicable in the state it is registered. Once all the engineering is done you get a rego label that lists a code which specifies that the car is modified and the rego papers also state this. You also get engineering paperwork that covers your car for the mods done and you get an engineering sticker or plate that goes next to your copliance plate specifying the mod categories approved on your vehicle ( and if you've got new wheels and tyres you get a new tyre plackard ). This whole experience has been a very interesting ( and sharp ) learning curve for me but for the $600.00 that it cost "me", it is the best money I've "had to" spend, for peace of mind.

Well to be completely honest, I'm not 100% sure yet. Spent a bit of time with the car last night and I'm now thinking that it may be something around the master cylinder. :confused: I hate working to fix problems that someone else built into the car. :chairshot I know it's not the scaling on the hub problem cause the hub and rotor on the commodore are one in the same. Going to start looking at disc warp, wheel bearings, master cylinder ( piston seal to port alignment ) and so on. Hmmm...I wonder if we can sneak the car through scruteneering with R33 GT-R Brembo's

Pad Knock-Off. What's the best way of fixing that ? Floating rotors ? Chamfer pads ?? Mate of mine has a VC Commodore race car and has to pump the brakes once or twice to bring the pedal back before the braking point. Yes, I know it's a "Commodore" but it's cheaper to fix than a Skyline ( Note he also owns a 33 V Spec ).

Fluid is very important ( as has been said ) but also if you're out on the track a lot, invest in a Brake Master Cylinder Brace kit. It'll give you a better pedal feel and will stop the firewall from cracking under constant heavy breaking. I recommend CUSCO highly for this.

Wheel AND Housing profiles are different between HKS and Garrett ( even though Garrett makes the parts for HKS ). HUGE difference in power delivery ( IMHO ). As for the physical differences between the HKS 2530 & 2535, I honestly never stopped to look nor did I even ask. :bonk: It was a spur of the moment swap as both myself and the other guy wanted what the other had performance wise so we just swapped turbo's and got what we wanted :thankyou: .

I'll try to take some better pics soon. If they turn out as bad as those ones I'll give you a yell Man I thought for sure these would all be gone by now ! These are great nuts ( especially for the $'s ). Everyone must be spending their hard earned money on carbon fibre cup holders

Anyone ?? Just to confirm, there's nothing wrong with this wheel. I just decided I wanted an all black wheel so that's why this one's for sale.

Guys, his phone number is 0418-233-525. Call him as I don't think he get's on SAU anymore. He now owns a Silvia.

Thanks for the info but I'm out. Was looking for grey mats

Um..... No. The NENGUN price if 1 person buys a set of mats is $360.00 delivered to your door. That's why I was thinking about a group buy. NOTHING NISMO IS CHEAP !! I must say, the more I think about it sensibly, the more I think I'd rather use the money to buy an EBC But hey, it was just a thought cause most people want replacement mats for their line. Anyway, from what I can tell there are 4 mats in the kit ( does not include the rear centre one ) and they look like a default dark grey or charcoal. Unfortunately, those are the pics on the site and I don't have any better ones.

Hi all, I had to order some parts from Nengun and noticed that Brent is selling NISMO Floor mat sets. The current single order set price is just under $360.00 delivered. Anyone "Genuinely" interested in a group buy before I go ask ? Prol looking for 10 orders.

F.Y.I. There are 2 kits available for this clutch. Overhaul Set A = $600.00 Includes the Clutch Disk, Pressure Plate and Cover Bolts. Overhaul Set B = $1,005.00 Includes the Clutch Disk, Pressure Plate, Cover Bolts and Alloy Clutch Cover. Buy complete NEW Super Single ( w/ alloy cover ) $1,645.00 Info from Otomoto OS Giken brochure (02) 9741-3920 Hope that actually helps you all.

So what's good ???? ( without the rocket scientist degree ).

This has always been an impossible question for me to answer since I believe it depends on many factors like amb temp, what gear you're in, what type of boost controller you're using, how your engine is modified etc, etc, etc. The only way I can answer that is by a general opinion. IMHO I would say that the HKS GT2530 is prol the best turbo for a stock RB20DET. I only swapped up to a GT2535 to because I wanted less mid range punch ( around where the engine starts making it's power ) and more legs above that point ( if that makes any sense ). Now Mark, does what I said about the wastegate actuator make any sense to you or not ??? If you truely believe that your bleed valve can work on my car I will re-purchase one. I guess a more appropriate qusetion would be.......has anyone installed one of these valves on and RB20DET and with what results ?? Pics of installation would be REALLY helpfull.

I'll agree with the above regarding the HKS GT2530 but don't dismiss the GT2535 either ! The thing I found with the 2530 was that you smoke the tyres too much just trying to get the power down ( not really a problem for most I guess ) But when I fitted the 2535 that problem went away as the bulk of the power moved up in the rev range. I tiny bit more laggy than a 2530 and doesn't kick you in the butt like the 2530 but it does provide very smooth power all the way to the top ( even after you've done a whole bunch of mods ). Still, if you're only planning on normal bolt on mods the HKS GT2530 is prol one of the best hair dryers around for an RB20DET. By the way, it MUST BE A HKS !! Not a garrett GT2530 !! They are not the same animal. My 2 cents

What is the condition & colour of the floor mats ? Any pics ?

That is amazing !! I'm SOOOO glad that none of it is available to purchase new any more !!! I would be so broke !!!!

Purchased this about 3 months ago but it really doesn't suit my car so it's up for sale. In excellent condition ( as you would expect ) Here's the spiel on the wheel............ - JDM Style Steering Wheel - Steering Wheel Diameter 330mm ( Legal size ) - Light Weight Design with brushed aluminum frame and padded with PVC - Practical Positioning of horn buttons - Will fit on Hub adaptor / Boss Kit 6 x 2 6/8" hole pattern ( Common type of 6 bolt hub / boss kit like HKB, MOMO etc.) NOTE 1: I have modified the wires on the back of the wheel to make them one for operating the horn ( Like on the Skylines ). NOTE 2: There is currently a raised Pratt & Whitney ( Aircraft Engine ) sticker in the middle of the wheel ( Why ?? Why Not ) I paid $65.00 + $22.50 Postage Asking $60.00 Postage Included ( Aus only ) Here's a Pic of the wheel without the sticker. PM if interested. :wavey:

HKS GT 25/35 w/internal gate on mine. Profec B Spec 2 OK for this ya recon ??