TokyoTaxi

RB Engines are known to pump more oil into the head than it can drain away when the engine's kept at high RPM so I would suggest that oil in a catch can is better than oil in your turbo, your intercooler, your plumbing, your manifold, on your valves and spark plugs. Just my 2 cents

BASS, Do you know what the AFM to Turbo Duct is going to cost ? If so, I'll pay for mine in advance. Would that help ????

Oh and as for answering this question....... IMHO, the Bendix Ultimates should suit your requirements Don't forget to change the brake fluid every now and then also :uh-huh:

I'll second sewid !! I just got a set of Falken ZE512's and so far they seem great ( not using them on the track either ). Good price too if you shop around.

I've been using EBC Green Stuff's on the front and EBC Black's on the back of my R32 for the last couple of years and love em. I'm also using their EBC Sports Rotors on the front which have big out-gassing slots and blind drilled holes ( no periferal cracking like through drilled rotors eg. DBA ). Have done about 11 track days on em ( plus daily driving ) and they're still very good. For: Quiet ( No squeeling ), Low Dust, great bite and pedal feel. Against: Slight ticking noise when cruising and more expensive than Bendix ( Paid around $220 for the front pads ) Also, hard to find seller ( does anyone know who sells them in Sydney ??? ) Used Bendix Ultimates before these and was not impressed as they became noisy, very high dust output and wore out VERY FAST. That's just my expeience but other's think they're OK.

What about Falken ?? Should be able to get same pattern for those sizes in a ZE326, ZE512, ZE451 and ST115 from memory. That is assuming you like Falken tyres of course.

What about Falken ?? Should be able to get same patter for those sizes in a ZE326, ZE512, ZE451 and ST115 from memory. That is assuming you like Falken tyres of course.

Bass is correct as far as I'm aware also. The lip on the bearing hub takes most of the weight and the nuts/studs simply hold the wheel in place. That's way you always have to get spacers made up to take up the difference in diameter if after-market wheels are fitted.

My 2cents...... Firstly, I would suggest a HKS GT over a rebuilt / high flowed for your car. No doubt !! ( Would be happy to elaborate if required ) On the topic of HKS GT's, while in Japan I was made quite aware that the perfect partners were, HKS GT2530 for an RB20 and then GT2535 for an RB25. This is of course for a reasonably sensible street car / track days. Personally, I think they were right but there are exceptions ( eg. using a GT2530 on an RB25 for drifting ). My opinion..... GT2530 for great launches and awesome mid range with very respectable top end or GT2535 for a little less down low and a bit more up top. Hope that helps

Sweet as. Enjoy !! Fine print: I hereby accept no responsibility for the wear rate of your tires from this day forward ( especially the rears ) :elaugh:

Way to go Chris32 !! God I miss that diff but.......the effect is what I wanted. I drive a lot slower now cause I got NOOO traction.

Clutch line for me too in black for R32 GTS-T Thanks

Also, do the cam gears have an effect on turbo lag ??

Thanks Sydneykid, You're saying "if the rest of the engine's up to it" ? Does that mean I should be screwing some hard core boost into it to make the cam tuning worth while ? The engine is fresh with Arias forgies, head flow work etc and I'm using a chipped ECU and have all the supporting bolt-on's so.........

Hi, A couple of things I'd like input on please. Will Vernia Cam Gears make "that much" of a difference to performance and to reduce turbo lag ( I'm running a GT2535 on my RB20 ) ?? :confused: Also, what would be typical settings for these gears on an RB20DET ? ( e.g. Inlet 2 deg advance and exhaust 2 deg retarded ??? ) Cheers

Thanks guys, but I found and purchased one locally. Thanks again.

Thanks gent's. I'll let the owner know. Will get back to you'all shortly. Cheers

To avoid coil pack failure I took the upper belt cover off and used a hole saw and file to make a tear drop shaped opening to the cam belt area. I then opened up the little ventilation fins in the rear section ( fins vent into the coil pack area / valley ) so I now have air flowing through from the outer most part of the fan, through the hole I made, between the cam pulleys, through the fins and down the valley taking some heat away from the coils then venting at the rear of the valley cover. ( Hope all that makes sense ). Should work on any RB I would guess. I've yet to finish the job off with a nice piece of mesh to stop any nasties getting in but it seems to have worked as I've never lost a coil pack in my R32.

Got a friend who needs a Steering Wheel to suit an R33 GTS ( NON-TURBO ). The wheel must be HICAS compatible but have NO airbag and be in good condition. If you have one or know of one for sale please let me know. PM or call on 0414-862-626 Thanks, Scott.

bump Dyno sheet on the way.

Pics Added. Bump.

Sad but true pete ! I just don't want to be around when the sale takes place. I hate seeing a grown man cry......god knows, I couldn't sell it if I owned it. Prol sell a kidney first !!!

This is not my car but I do know it and know that it's a true "wolf in sheep's clothing". I also know that it's a clean and VERY fast car !!! Anyway, here's the lowdown Silver 1996 R33 Skyline GT-R Vspec Built to look stock standard from the outside, but every aspect of the car has been designed to handle the 800 HP+ performance every day with total reliability. Engine: - Huge bar & plate intercooler + plumbing. - 2 x GFB blow-off valves. - Super-strong bottom end inc. crank, rods, forged pistons, Nismo bearings, rod bolts. - Nismo oil & water pumps. - 2 x Garret 450HP ball-bearing turbos. - HKS gaskets used throughout + HKS S/S head gasket. - Tomei cams and vernier cam gears. - Hand ported, flowbenched head with O/S sodium filled valves and mirror polished ports. - Extrusion honed exhaust and intake manifolds. - Everything match-ported. - All heat-loaded parts HPC coated. - All load-bearing parts cryogenically treated. - Oil/air separator. - Cusco catch can - Braided lines. - Dual 3" S/Steel exhaust from turbos to tips. - Large oil-cooler w/ braided lines. - Trust/GReddy sump baffles. - Computer: Apexi Power-FC PRO with 3-bar MAP sensors and hand controller. - Boost Control: Apexi AVC-R. - All machining, balancing and assembly to blueprint or better specifications. - Professionally assembled and tuned. - On the dyno made 402kw at approx. 6000rpm, then produced wheelspin after that. Conservative power estimate: 820 flywheel HP Fuel System: - Sard 740cc injectors. - Sard rising rate fuel press. regulator. - Custom fuel rail with press. equalisation. - Nismo in-tank primary fuel pump. - Bosch Motorsport external Fuel pump. - Custom swirl-pot. - All fittings, lines, pumps and swirl-pot hidden. Drivetrain: - OS Giken twin-plate clutch. - 35 degree straight-cut gear-set. - Larger diameter shafts all round. - Nismo synchro set. - All parts cryogenically treated. - Strengthened and tightened diffs. - 10-plate wet clutch upgrade for 4WD system. - Stronger driveshafts and CV joints. Other: - Nismo suspension all round. - Massive Porche GT-3RS brakes w/competition pads. - Nolathane bushings. - Camber & castor modifications. - Flaken AZENIS 255/40 tyres. - Nismo 320kph instrument cluster. - Nismo center-stack gauges. - Nismo short-shifter. - Power-FC hand controller. - G-Reddy exhaust temp gauge. - Apexi AVC-R controller. - Fully automated turbo timer. - 4-stage programmable shift light. - Momo steering wheel w/ HICAS compatible boss kit. - Pioneer stereo w/ 2 amps, splits all round and Pioneer sub. Rego to Jan 05 Price: $75,000 or near offer. NO TIME WASTERS PLEASE AND A SECURITY DEPOSIT WILL BE REQUIRED BEFORE TEST DRIVE ALLOWED !! Contact: Mick on 0410-558-711

PM Sent

Hi Bass, I'm definately in for one !! R32 GTS-T RB20DET with the BOV and Breather pipes ( same style as stock one ) and black if colour is available. Cheers