TokyoTaxi

Hi all, Going to clean out the garage since the car's going to be sold soon. First item for sale is an R34 GT-T Turbo that has been fitted with a Garrett GT2530 B/B core. It's in excellent condition with no shaft play, chips, dings or the like. With this turbo fitted to my stock engine, I was making 207rwkw at 1.1bar. Only replaced it because it became restrictive after the rebuild with the head work etc. Works great on a stock RB20DET. Price: $800.00 If someone can tell me how to or post pics for me I do have 2 pics.

To all who have shown interest, thanks, and I now have a semi-dodgy-digi camera ( and am learning how to use "properly" ) so by Monday I should have some pics which I'll try to post here as opposed to sending them to all of you individually. If I can't do this, I WILL send them out to each of you.

bump Price reduced. Read above.

Forgot to mention, I would also consider a trade and cash adjustment with either ot the following if in extremely good and stock condition. - Manual R32 GTS 2 door with RB25DE ( NON TURBO ) or - Manual S13 Silvia with SR20DE ( NON TURBO ) As you may gather by this, I have a small problem with my right foot and am selling my car and moving into something slower to try to keep my licence. :uh-huh:

I posted this car before but retracted it when I thought it had a problem. It turned out to be a dud spark plug and all is well again so it's back up for sale. Here it is again: Factory Black 1990 GTSt Type M Rego til Dec 04 This is not a show car but a standard looking car with all the good gear on it. THIS IS A PERSONAL IMPORT VEHICLE SO ADR COMPLIANCE WAS NOT REQUIRED AND MODS ARE LEGAL ( so long as they are deemed roadworthy which these are ). The Go Bits. :wassup: Engine rebuilt late last year with Arias Forgies, balanced bottom end, medium level head work including match porting heads to manifolds. Chemical Cleaning and repainting was done. Other features are: - High Energy 9L capacity sump with trap doors etc. - New Oil and Water pumps, mounts and tensioners etc. - Earls Sandwich Plate and Oil Cooler - Power Enterprise 550cc Injectors - Splitfire HEI Coil Packs - Ducted Apexi Pod Filter - HKS GT2535 Turbo ( In excellent condition ). - Split Ceramicoated Dump Pipe into 3" Apexi S/Steel Exhaust - GReddy V-SPL Front Mount Intercooler - OS Giken Twin Plate Clutch - Cusco Catch Can - Cusco Strut Tower Brace - Nismo Fuel Pressure Regulator - Chipped Stock ECU - GT-R Fuel Pump The Drive Bits. :burnout: - Standard G/box - Rebuilt Tailshaft - ATS 1.5 Way LSD - Dummy Rear Steering Rack - C's Short Shifter ( with heavy G/Knob ) - Custom Valved Bilstien coil-overs with height adjustable King Springs - Custom Sway Bars - Cusco Front Upper Ball Bearing Links - Caster Kit ( Brand un-known ) - Rear Cradle Pineapples - A Tech Monoforged alloys (F) 17x8" & ® 17x9" with Falken 235/45's and 255/40's The Stop Bits. :confused: - EBC Front Discs and Pads with Synthetic Brake Fluid - Cusco Brake Master Cylinder Brace - Nismo Coated Braided Brake Lines The Other Bits. :uhh: - Nismo 260kph Speedo - Pivot Shift Light - Blitz Racing Boost Gauge - Sony Explode Head Unit - Kenwood Amp - Kenwood Front Splits - Pioneer Rears - 10" Boxed Sub - Tinted Windows - GT Gearlock - Other spare bits and pieces included The Price. Now $19,900 FIRM ( Priced to sell ). No time wasters or joy riders please. NOTE: I don't have a digi camera but if there's genuine interest I'll try to organise something.

V/Cool. Thanks for the info Will pass it on.

Marlin, I've heard quite a few people mention this oil restrictor mod. Interested in hearing more about it if you can provide the info. Things like where and how it's installed, orrifice size after installation, anything you can think of. Seen it happen heaps at track days and I'm sure these guys would love to know the fix. Cheers.

I'm ashamed to say that I was around when Space Invaders first came out ! Personal fav's Donky Kong and Galaxia. funkmonkey.................you should feel proud owning those consoles. Crap load of memories flooding back just seeing them again

Hi all. The time has come for me to consider selling my ride. Need something more appropriate ( Old, Fat and Slow, like me ). The car: 1990 Type M in factory Black Pearl Metalic ( quite good for it's age ) Speedo reads 164,000 + but it's more like 120,000 as the NISMO speedo I fitted already had a number of k's on it. Car LOOKS DEAD STOCK except for wheels and exhaust. THIS IS NOT A SHOW PONY !!! I don't have a digital camera but if someone's genuinely interested I can probably get my hands on one for pics. The main attraction of this car must be that it's a "Personal Import" and therefore does not bow to ADR regulations and can be modified to your heart's content ( so long as the mods are roadworthy ). The engine: - Engine completely rebuilt early this year including chemical clean and strip. - Balanced bottom end - 40" Thou oversize Arias Fories - Head ported and polished + Match ported to manifolds - Valves and seats cut to increase flow - Valve guides cut back ( moderately ) - New Oil and Water Pumps ( Genuine NISSAN ) - High Energy Sump. 8L capacity with baffles and trap doors - Splitfire Coil Packs - 550cc Power Enterprise Fuel Injectors - OS Giken Twin Plate Clutch ( sprung centres ) - Nismo Fuel Pressure Regulator - GT-R Fuel Pump - Earls Sandwhich plate and Oil Cooler - Cusco Catch Can Induction side: - HKS GT2535 Turbo in extremely good condition - GReddy V-SPL Front Mount I/Cooler ( painted black ) - Apexi Pod Filter - Z32 Air Flow Meter Exhaust side: - Split Dump pipe ( ceramic coated ) - 3" Front pipe into High Flow Cat into S/Steel Apexi Management: - Stock ECU Chipped Suspension: - Custom valved Bilstien Coil overs with King Springs - Custom Sway Bars - Cusco B/Bearing front upper links - Adjustable Caster links - Cusco Strut Tower Brace - Dummy Rear Steer rack to eliminate HICAS - Rear Cradle Pineapples Brakes: - EBC Pads and Front rotors - Nismo Braided Brake Lines - Motul Synthetic Fluid - Cusco Master Cylinder Brace Diff: - ATS 1.5 Way LSD Centre Stereo: - Sony XPlode Head unit - Front Plits ( Kenwood ) - Rears ( Pioneer 6") - 10" Boxed Kenwood Sub - Kenwood Amp ( Can't remember model ) Interior: - Nismo 260K Speedo - C's Short Shift Kit - Pivot Super Shift Light - Blitz Racing Boost Gauge - Recaro Racing Seat ( with rails ) Rollers: - A Tech Monoforged alloys (F) 17x8" ® 17x9" - Falken GRB FK04's 235/45R/17 & 255/40R/17 I'm sure there's more but that's all I can remember. Have receipts for just about everything. Looking for offers around $22,000.00 No B.S. car owes me over $45,000.00 :crazy: PM if interested. Please keep "opinions" to your self :talk2hand:

Damn !!! I was kinda hoping that it was some special part that stops oil from blowing out of the cam covers during high revs. Cheers anyhow, and P.S. LOOKS GREAT !!

Excuse my ignorance but what is / are "O's Factory Breather Fittings" ????

When I rebuilt my engine recently I found that the counter-sunk screws ( not bolts ) on the inner surface of the pump were very lose. If these are the ones you're talking about it's a matter of pulling the oil pump off which is NOT an easy job ! In my opinion.......never trust the stock oil pressure gauges / senders in an import skyline ( especially the R32 ones ). I have a freshly rebuilt engine and it reads fine on start and while cold running. When it gets hot it still reads fine until idle at the lights and then it drops off to zero. For the record I've been using Penzoil 5W-50 which seems OK but I get cold engine ticking most of the time no matter what oil I use. Also, I'm another who will not use Mobil 1.

If it's R32 GT-R wheels AND the tyres I'd be willing to pay $500. Scott 0414-862-626

I'm looking for a new job and even plowing a 55 year old could be better than what I'm doing at the moment LOL

I used to get the HICAS light coming on and some other strange things happen ( with the stock steering wheel fitted ) and I found that as long as I make sure the power steering fluid is at the right level, all seems OK. Have since fitted a dummy rear rack and put fresh fluid through and have never had a problem since. P.S. No rear steer on street = less fun. No rear steer on track = heaps more fun !!!

Let's try that again.......... I have a turbo which consists of R34GTT Compressor and Turbine housings and the core is a Garrett GT2530. The assembly is in "as new" condition since it was on my car for about 800k's. I have all the lines and fittings required to install. There's nothing wrong with it except that it's perfect for a stock RB20 but once head work's been done it runs out of puff ( why I took it off ). On my stock engine at 1.1 bar it made 207.5rwkw. $850.00

Next I'm going to try the sand in the cylinder's trick, then flush with MEK ( Methyletherketone ) and stuff a banana skin down each plug hole to build compression Eg. I'm going to pretend I own a holden ( joke.....)

Actually, I was so disheartened by the whole issue that I've only just started trying to sort things out. What I have done ( you ready for this ?? ) is poured 1 litre of Kero into the engine oil ( engine at operating temp ) and let it idle for 10 minutes. Watched the engine temp rise slightly, heard the engine making less than purring noises and watched the idle drop slightly. I would imagine this level of anxiety would be something like watching a family member being tortured Anyway, I drained the sump and oil cooler then replaced the filter and filled her up with 30W mineral oil and have since put about 200kms on it. Will keep going till I've clocked up 1000kms and then do a comp test to see what's happened ( if anything ).

Well I guess I've got nothing to lose and it buys me some time to save some money ( yeah right ! ) Still, I do want to hear more from anyone else with regards to these pistons and rings so I can get well balanced optinion. At the moment I'm not sure if I could recommend them to someone building an engine.

Thanks for all the info Guys & Girls. Here's the low-down. ProFlow at Rossmore built the engine and they're renowned for building high quality and high power engines ( mostly big HP V8's for drags ) and I have very little doubt in the quality of their workmanship ( however, after sales service leaves a little to be desired ). The bores were machined to suit 40 thou oversized Arias slugs. The guy that installed the engine ( not ProFlow ) put Synthetic 5w40 oil in as run in oil which I didn't know about ( and don't really think is correct ). He believes that itwill make no difference at all to the run-in. The car: From a cold start up to operating temp, the engine is as quiet as a mouse and driving the car is reasonable until you hit the loud pedal and get up on 18-20psi boost and then the oil catch can goes from empty to full in no time flat ! I ran the engine in for about 400kms before changing oil and filter but the car just seems to be going down in power every time I drive it. From all that I've heard now ( forums, workshops, and owners ), it would appear that Arias pistons and rings are great so long as boost is kept below 18psi ( due to ring design ) and if you want to run bigger boost than that you're best to get Tomei or Jun pistons. This is only a conclusion that I've made from talking to around 40 or so people re this subject. Since I'm essentially broke at the moment I'm thinking of doing what Chris32 ( and others )suggested and chuck some mineral based run-in oil in, turn down the boost to about 14psi max and thrash the nuts out of it to see if the ring might bed in. If this doesn't work I'll just park the car and start stripping it

Thanks all. Well from what I'm told, the people who built my engine are some of the best in the game so I'm now putting the problem down to the oil that was put in (as run-in oil ) by the guys who fitted the engine, or the way I ran it in ( if that's possible ). I guess my next questions are...... How did you run in your engine ? What oil did you use to run it in ? and How many kms for ? Thanks.

Just thought I'd pass this info on as it's correct and may be of use to some of you. If you believe any of this to be incorrect I would like to know R32GTS-t ( E-HCR32 ) Engine: RB20DET Capacity: 1998cc Bore & Stroke: 78.0mm x 69.7mm Comp ratio: 8.5:1 Power output: 215ps @ 6400rpm Torque output: 27.0kg.m @ 3200rpm Fuel tank cap: 60 Litre R32GT-R ( E-BNR32 ) Engine: RB26DETT Capacity: 2568cc Bore & Stroke: 86.0mm x 73.7mm Comp ratio: 8.5:1 Power output: 280ps @ 6800rpm Torque output: 36.0kg.m @ 4400rpm Fuel tank cap: 72 Litre

Hi all, I've recently had my engine rebuilt using Arias forged pistons and am getting huge blow-by and a huge drop in compression pressure ( should be 120psi-140psi but I'm getting 75psi-85psi ) :cuss: I'm told that the rings are not bedded in and I need to replace these rings and bead hone the bores to fix the problem. I'm also being told by another source that these rings are simply no good and I should get Tomei pistons and rings. I would really like to hear from anyone who has actually used Arias forgies in their turbo nissan and what the results were like ( before I possibly go ahead and waste more money doing the rings and bore hone ). Thanks.

Oh that's gotta suck !! Way sorry to hear that.