TokyoTaxi

I know in Sydney there's EARL's but there's also another place that sells aluminium aircraft style fluid connection fittings like EARL's. I can't remember the name of the place for the life of me and I really need to replace 4 fittings urgently and EARL's is just too expensive.

I like it !! It could have been a bit better but it also could have been a LOT WORSE !! The front and side views are evil ( IMO ) but the back lacks something ( although it's good to see they retained the taillights ) As soon as the Jap tuning shops get their hands on it I'm sure there'll be a modified version to suit every taste Picture it slammed with a Do-Luck style rear wing .... yum !!

Nice find Bass !! That's pretty cool. I'll keep that link to show work experience kids how a turbo fan engine works. They get so confused when we show them a full cross section drawing of an RB211

I guess after 4 years it would be pretty crappy huh..... Are the ones from Just Jap the ones with the stainless body & stainless biscuit ? ( with 200 holes per inch ) ?? I think they now sell those barrel style ones. I'm just not sure how much difference a $450 cat makes compared to a $150 cat <_< ( Which, I guess, is the same sort of question as the first post ).

Maybe you guys would know...... I've got a complete 3" exhaust stsyem but the cat is a reasonably old ( maybe 4 years ?? ) 3" catco. Anyone got any idea how much difference it would make to fit a new metal cat / stainless steel cat etc ? Will a top $ cat make any real difference to the performance you've talked about ?

I know that R32 GTS-T, R33 GTS-T and R32 GT-R seat rails are interchangeable if that helps

After talking to a mate last night, he thinks I should be flexible on the price ( which I guess is fair ) so........I've amended the original post to "ono"

Item: O.S.Giken TS2BD Twin Plate Clutch and Flywheel assembly ( includes Thrust Bearing and Carrier ) Location: NSW Item Condition: Very Good ( Read below ) Reason for Selling: Upgraded ( Read Below ) Price and Payment Conditions: SOLD ( $2,280 total replacement cost new ). Extra Info: OK Here's the lowdown.... I recently rebuilt a spare gearbox for my car and figured since I'm putting a fresh box in, in should put a fresh clutch in ( thinking the TS2BD would be near dead ). As it turned out, it was in really good condition. But I decided to continue with the new unit so this one's for sale. The condition of everything is very good ( check out the super-high quality pics ) The Clutch plates measured up at 2.7mm & 2.8mm thick ( 4mm thick when new ) so there's a fair bit of life left in this assembly. The mid friction plate measures at 4.45mm. All that's required of you to install is to cut 2.5mm off your Flywheel to Crankshaft bolts and away you go ( same applies for any O.S. Giken clutch ) !! This assmebly is rated up to 480hp and will suit HR31 ( R31 GTS-T ), HCR32 ( R32 GTS-T ), ECR33 ( R33 GTS-T ) and will suit a stock BNR32 ( R32 GT-R )89-91 ( push type clutch ) Contact Details: PM me if interested. Sydney sale preferred.

I'll withdraw this question as I now have the answer.

That EFIJY machine was without a doubt, the best ride at the show !!! ( IMO ). To see it in the flesh was jaw dropping. Now there are "2" Holdens I would actually consider owning. That car, and a 427 Monaro/GTO.

Just thinking........I wonder if there are LED's that can replace that style of globe I'm sure they would be brighter, generate less heat and would last for ever !! There's a project for someone

Honestly...... no idea !!! Never got timed on a clean run and have not been back since the rebuild. I must admit though, it's not something I could maintain with the azenis. They would start to protest severely after 1.5 laps of that kind of treatment ( especially the backs after turn 9 through 12 )

Spose I'd better contribute in the name of knowledge & progress ( ?? ) Engine/Car: HCR32 RB20DET Type of failure: #3 Big End Bearing & Crankshaft journal. ( Oil Surge ? ). Factors influencing the failure: 215kph around turn 1 @ Eastern Creek ( 4th gear @ around 6,800rpm ) State of tune of the engine: Stock engine with FMIC, Turbo, Chippped ECU, Zorst etc, etc. 215rwkw Suspension and tyres: Bilstien Coilovers ( track spec valving and springs ) and AZENIS Semi-Slicks 245/45/16 Oil used and service interval: Penzoil Full Synthetic 5W-50 + filter changed @ 5,000km intervals. General comments: It wasn't a complete "KA-BOOM" failure but it was a tow truck ride home Strangest part was that every other part in the engine was sweet !! Engine had about 140,000km on it and not a sign of serious wear ( except 3# bearing & crank ). Oh and I forgot to mention.......the countersunk screws that hold the oil pump together were lose which might have contributed. My contribution

No, not broken, just "RED". Scares the $hit out of me sometimes. Pulling 7k and a red light comes on............ = occasional heart failure. Thanks anyway.

Does anyone know how thick NEW clutch plates are for an O.S Giken TS2CD ? Cheers.

Milperra is near Bankstown. Also, your A/C usually won't work unless you have full pressure in your system. So the compressor MIGHT not be your problem. If you can afford to do it, get the compressor out, get it overhauled ( including the clutch ) and chuck it back in with a full re-gas and your A/C will be awesome. You might not think it's worth it now but summer is just around the corner

The good news....... The Electro-magnetic clutch change will set you back a measely $110.00 The bad news....... You'll have to get the gas back out of the system, pull the A/C compressor off and drive to Milperra ( There may be someone more local to you but this guy's the best I've found ) Call Jack on 9792-8265 or 0416-204-806 to make sure he'll be at the shop ( VERY busy man ) and then drive to 12/9 Ladbroke St. Milperra and in a couple of days it'll be all fixed. F.Y.I. he can also overhaul your compressor AND change the clutch for $400 total ( from memory ) which is a whole lot better than $1,200 new from nissan. Hope that helps

Firstly, I believe there are 3 oils in the Shockproof Gear Oil range. Superlightweight, Lightweight and Heavyweight. From what I understand, if your car use is "normal" and your box is in good condition, you should use the Superlight Weight. For older g/box's and/or for more abusive use ( track use etc. ) go the Lightweight. Then the Heavyweight is for dog box's etc and extreme power / usage. But even after saying that, I'll be using the Lightweight Shockproof in my fully overhauled g/box only because I've used it before and know how well it works. Hope that helps some

Hi, Are you able to get replacement lenses for the Shiftlamp X ? If yes could you please advise on price ? B.T.W. I'm after a yellow lens. Cheers.

Just an F.Y.I. I just grabbed some Redline Shockproof Lightweight from Coventry Auto Parts in Alexandria for $110 for 1 US gal. Not a bad price

Having had 2 custom made systems, I would suggest getting the turbo to back of cat off this forum ( BATMBL ) and then pic a cat-back system from the 100's available to suit your taste. Or, if price is the issue, go see Just Jap in Kirrawee and grab a X-Force "complete" bolt-up system for under $1,000 ( from memory ). If you must have a custom one built, I believe Charlstone Exhaust ( spelling ? ) is good or Hi-Tech / Lambros. Oh, prices for a custom system range from like $1,500 to $2,500 for a "turbo to tip" system depending on metal, mufflers and your requirements.

If you are getting a stock nissan pump, the VIN Chassis number will ensure that you get the correct one for your car. There actually are differences between many of the pumps. A HR31 RB20DET water pump is slightly different to a HCR32 RB20DET water pump and so on. The differences are subtle but noticeable. My mate recently replaced his HR31 ( red top RB20DET ) waterpump with a N1 BNR32 ( RB26DETT ) one and the physical impeller difference was huge ! As a result, his engine temp on the track stays the same now, lap after lap. Better engine temp with street driving too. I replaced my w/pump with the correct one for my car when I rebuilt my engine. The temp gauge never reached half way before the engine rebuild and still doesn't.

Back in June I asked a couple of questions. Do you not know the answers to the questions I asked ?

A standard or N1 waterpump can be purchased from nissan ( not a big diffenerence in $'s from memory ). If you do track work or drive hard, go the N1 pump otherwise standard dhould be fine. Take your VIN / Chassis NO. with you to get the correct pump. From what I've heard about timing belts, go genuine nissan unless you're pushing out big power. I believe the "Gates" ones are more noisey and the blue coating falls off. Hope that helps.

You'll have to pull the instrument cluster out of the dash and pull all the globes out of it. From the factory, the globes have little green rubber condom things over them. You can remove them and replace the globes and it will be brighter. IMO, if you're in there, get a hand full of new globes ( try to find GOOD QUALITY ones ) and install them.