Dan_J

gud stuff dan, u found a front lip its seems most ceffy's have that big gap between the front bar and the side indicators on the stock bars. think there must be a metal adapter plate that bolts onto the front guard and front bar to lift it up this should be useful if peep's are looking into bolt on flares http://www.takkun.net/takaoowaza1-2.htm

and how would i fix this if i still want to use the ecu water temp wire for a temp gauge?

as above i'm having some starting problems so i'm just trying to rule it out. where is it located and what number is it? thanks guys EDIT: another Q, say i t'd a connection off the ecu water temp wire to a temp gauge would there be a sensor/ voltage draw where the ecu is not getting the right temp reading as the gauge is drawing some?

i wouldn't mind the 4 mm sheet metal bent into rail shape. i have been told that panel beater's remove the spot welds to get it out, hammer and dolly it straight then reweld.

^ ok, must not have my info right

i thought an epa test is only measured to 3000rpm? good info none the less

decent battle scar there it shud come back latter on as you need to use rust converter/dissolve as it eats up all the lil specs left ova but it shud be fine till you get it on the road after some time. welding in flat sheet metal, beating it to shape aint too hard when the time comes to restore it

it has been sold

sweet

welded diff great ova single spinner, mini spool HEAPS better as u cant break them and lsd does the same thing but abit more better for grip as far as i know as u have 1 way, 1.5 and 2way more for drift mini spools can be found cheap on ebay

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ce...ll-t314222.html

really? i figured the rear wud at the least be the same for mounting calipers so s13/r32/3/4 gtr etc and those red calipers above look like a31./s13 cali's

WHAT? no! y? cudnt get that much from scrap?just lower the price unless it worth that in scrap....

^ i ment r32 lines in my last post so maybe nissan FAST doesnt lie half the time

you make an exhaust flange out of some steel sheet and drill a few holes in the center, then bolt it in and get an extra gasket flange for it. you will have shit power same as a silencer after installing it

think about it, it wud go in a diagonal direction. more pics from manual'ed auto ceffy's to confirm

mite have to do with ceffy engine crossmember and r32 member?luke, yours is a r32 engine, may have had a r32 member to go with it. if the front engine is lower( ceffy member) that wud pull the gear box with it. just a thought. edit:DAM! spot on nick 7:11

nah i think its coz ur body was originally auto,think i had 2 hack mine slightly to fit perfect . also rb30 box sits more forward

may have to loosen hicas (2 bolts or wat not) other then that it shud be easy just need an extender on your breaker bar/ ratchet dont forget the fuel funnel there's a bolt holding it at the top

lol, nice. you could still give it a go for current use its like a meter long so cut to size, cheaper then new lines. from nissan fast it shows it as the same part code, BUT i hear fast is known for mixing stuff like that up

use a bit of very small dia metal cylinder as a spacer at the adjuster next to the lever. bunnings have a alloy one that works ok, using one in my daily. hasnt bent or cracked with all the handbrakies etc

chopping springs will make them a higher rate but the last thing it will do is make it handle like a boat, must of been the holden. in fact it should be more stable with less boaty-ness but the ride wont be as smooth do it. if you dont like it get another set of stock ones or what not

if your just doing lil bits hear and there u can just grab a good spray can primer and give it at least 2 coats, wait for it to dry in between coats. if your unsure if a primer is any good get some steel panel/bit , remove paint to bare metal, paint a bit in primer and leave the rest bare. then you just make it rust by leaving it outside and putting water on it now an then. once you see surface rust get paint stripper out and clean the primer off so you can see if it works. an epoxy primer is the best ( rubber based), go by what spray painters recommend.

well the surface rust is easy just sand, rust converter with a wire brush/cloth and repeat until you have no lil black bits. wear a mask as your lungs don't like the acid in the converter. your gonna have to either get the the bit of the the strut tower top with rust cut out and weld in a new fab'd up section with the same or harder grade steel or just get it cut off a front cut etc

they shud fit if u bring a hammer out? or are they fitted and you just want them to look better? i had a spare set of r32 2 dr rear seats and i fitted them to the cefiro by getting the grinder out and trimming some of the metal links so that u cud move the metal part that bolts in. p.s r32 2dr rear seats dont suit ceffy's well, their not wide enough and are shorter