Dan_J

ok well i wont be using the ecu water temp line as a sensor for the gauge so that is sorted. temp is like under 40c before i start, as was commenting on the other post above as 60c is not something that is not seen at all and is such a big deal ... as cold starts are 40 under and as stated i dont drive with the gauge connected so no warmed up normal temp.

no, i just started it for the 1st time in the cold morning. sounds about right to me. the gauge is not hooked up when i drive so no after drive readings. also 60c is bloody hot for coolant temps to be in the morning since last start being the other morning. close thread please

no that's just it idling in my driveway under no load thread size shud be 12m x 1.25, i'll see how i go. cheers for the info

ok well i see i guess thats it, altho they guage it self is reading right, it gets to 40c and after a few mins 60c when idling. does anyone know what the thread size is on the hot/cold sensor for the guage on the cluster? . its 12m + as my tap/die set doesnt go any higher

so no 2 a r32 one?

hey guys, so i stripped a bit of insulation off the ecu water temp wire just near the ECU, but did not cut the wire. now i wrapped a wire around it and sent it to the sensor terminal on the gauge, i wired up the gauge on the cigarette lighter at 12v's +/- and i even double checked it with the wrong terminal connected so i could make sure they were working on the right ones. now the gauge works and reads the water temp, but when i leave it for a few hours i get a sort of temp reading draw/change to the ecu which in turn means that i cant start my car unless i disconnect the gauge sensor wire from the ecu water temp wire. help would be great, not sure how i would take it to the auto elec when i have to leave it there for a few hours just for the problem to start. much appreciated EDIT: for a rb20det

good shit! were u running those front spacers? NON-HICAS, respect well a manual is heaps lighter maybe 20kgs

unsure, i just thought that the horizontally mounted fuses were for spare fuses my rough fuse box layout that i made below a31c33fusebox.doc

yes that is the exact right fuse box layout for the a31/c33

r32 coupe bits indicator stalk $15 roof lining $30 pair of A pillar trims $15 passenger castor rod $40 passenger gts4 control arm $30 unsure if they are the same as the gtst passenger gtr/gts4 front half shaft $30 can come with free drivers side broken shaft for use of the boots gts4/gtr front engine crossmember $150 VIC-SE pm/post

isn't the a pillar the same as the coupe ?

bunnings also have it, polycarbonate flat sheets.

yes is for sale on SD, 'mad mick' may be the taker

if u want 2 make it work just cut some polycarbonate(get it at bunnings) into shape and tint it

^ that shud be the auto on/off headlight function. you should see the sensor under that purple rounded square next to the demister vents

cold intake temps make power, cold engine water temps may damage the. engine kinda like not warming up in the morn and going for a full thrashing

thats just what the japanese guys do for a quick fix, was on a doriten video

great thread, and yes keep the pics and ideas coming a good way to save space and have a tyre/wheel rack is to run 2-3 post's of rhs or pole from one side to the other of the room but mount it as high as u can with the exception of room for tyres/wheel to come out. will need to make a stand/stable movable step ladder like the ones used at coles etc

ok thats better, there wasn't any info to back up your statement 1st tome round.

no idea, i've never used them or read much about them ,but surely it'll be answered soon enough by another member. here is the link to the trader that sells the camber correction ball joints, think they only do rear r33 stuff www.importautoparts.com.au http://www.forums.secretdrift.com.au/index...t=0&start=0

kudos motorsport adjust you clutch pedal? the lines might have had air in the lines and the pedal was adjusted for that and when u bled it that may have changed the response so u need to adjust for that

oh ok, the redrill will have to do with camber. this doesnt effect lock, just tyre wear and with extreme camber will cause understeer ( VIP style cars etc). some amount of front camber more then factory is good for turnin / oversteer( more front grip). you dont need to worry about it as it is fine the way it is for your street type set up. there are aftermarket ball joints that do the same thing as far as i know they are only for the rear lca. as above, if the front lca where flat( stock ride height or the redrill method) u would have less camber as when u lower a car u get more camber aka the angled lca's as in your pic you dont need them really as they dont give u any lock as far as i know..... putting washers ooops, i mean 'lock spacers' in your rack will give you more lock, they are just easier at times because they are adjustable

cut and shut rack= rack steel mounts cut off and welded forward on the crossmember redrill?= i guess u mean #2 ,grind the thing on ur front lca that looks like a V that ur tie rod ends hits ( or gets close to ) at full lock as wen u get too much lock it will foul on that stopping anymore lock. oops that for the s13, for the gts4 ( not sure if gts front lca are the same) u have this lil square block thats on an angle(i think thats the one as there isnt anything else there?), grind that down. keep the s13 rack while u find the s14 one the cut and shut is more for hardcore drifters slander aint good, i hear there are great. also those knuckles are made to fix ackerman.

nice lil rig u mean ur running that 1st and 2nd swaybar that goes one the rear of the gtr?