Dan_J

its said to be a drift mod as they say that the factory spot welds are weak etc and these will hold better somehow.....

there should be a nut on the inside of the door,you'll have to take your trim off of course, and there might be any extra clip or what not. i'm just going by how the r32 door is.

look at a ca18det and drill/tap where they are tapped ?

ment to be running 10kg front spring rate if you do run the rb25, its said to be a lot better over the 8kg fronts due to the extra weight

i can rent my out for $50 if need be but the ones at bursons are 170-200 which is useful to buy

as above i'm after a r32 gts/t manual tailshaft, only in vic as postage is too $$ would also prefer it to be eastside of melb thanks

just a suggestion, ecu coolant sensor, unplug it and the car will start if thats the issue

u have a c35 in vic? cool stuff its doubtful thats anyone is wrecking a c35, you'll have to import parts or try nisswreck.com.au (SA) c35 suspension = s15 incase that helps

try total tools etc

pm sent

www.fulcrumsuspensions.com.au/

\ah good to see there's progression, whats this coil winding varnish? will you be doing the coil pack loom with thicker wires for a possible better spark or are you rewiring the ignitor? i used to spot it every time i came home so being not out the front made me think you sold it, but thats not far off anyway. dam that stucks, maybe i shud get my alarm working... if you cant get it out a lock smith should be able to get it out. i'll assure you that it wasn't me trying to see if the cefiro keys work the same yes, they are basically slight better then s13 sr20det brakes

bump

shaft 100-150 pedals 80-100 slave-50 master-50 lines 30 manual spigot bearing (new from nissan) 8? box-250-500 clutch-100-300 roughly for used heavy duty

daisu has repined and soldered his to work but he wont/cant post up the pin outs.... the japanese scans just confuse me every time i try to work it out ca s13 unit will work

it wouldn't matter if they were made in china i'd go c130 if cash wasn't a problem http://translate.googleusercontent.com/tra...s8H0FVH_xLxNk0A but if cash was the problem c110

thats one thing that i'm unsure on, if lower gearbox temps will make the gear box last longer and not blow/less likely to blow then i'd have one in yesterday, fairly easy on the rb20/25 as u just use the auto banjo bolts and hard line. i've been meaning to ask if there's any real difference or can you still kill your box just as easy?

yea whoops may have been thinking of 14's hey funky, whats the go with the ceffy is it; a) running b) in the shop c) sold ?

if the r33 rack it self is longer then that will aid with more lock and the lock 'washers' will help too although a bolt on lock spacer will give you more then the washers. you may need to trim the tie rods down , binding and blowing the seals in the rack may occur if you have too much lock/ spacers, trial and error is one way to figure this out....

to my knowledge there are NO performance gains other then keeping the engine healthy and lowering high oil temps though track or industrial area abuse. although lower oil temps could mean better turbo performance as they don't like high oil temps

u wont fit 15' rims on gtst brakes, fronts will with a spacer

ha!, if only lol back on topic tho

i figure i'd see what all you guys are getting in fuel economy as cefiro's are a lil more different then skylines. so follow the template and post it up Engine: Mods: Manual or auto: O2 sensor changed since car was owned : diff ratio: kms with full tank till red light comes on mine Engine:rb20det Mods:r33 S2 turbo, pod rest stock Manual or auto:manual O2 sensor changed since car was owned : nope never changed in my ownership diff ratio: auto VLSD ? kms: 400

Trunk sealings? you mean the bit the u push on the metal lip the surrounds the top of the boot, r32 will work and maybe even s13 as they are basically the same as they are stretchable

jarryd, stop selling all your project cars bargain and a half