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Dan_J

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Everything posted by Dan_J

  1. pics? mostly any thing is repairable, although panel beaters may charge a bit too much compared to others that have done similar work on a regular basis questions to ask is the chassis straight and not twisted, it can be dented but the structure still be straight or vise versa
  2. Is this the HPF in dandenong ? just tell them to do this: rear lower control arm $180 (could've bought it on SAU for $90 but didnt have the time) 2 x rear struts $150 each + labour that way you have it rolling/ kind of driving. rear cradle is the same as s13 if that helps but it shud be still drivable with a stuffed k frame. and what suburb are you located at? the damage cant be that bad, i might come round and have a sus
  3. ok. well i think the r32 should have the long black relay your on about
  4. lum,you sure take care of it well, i didnt even know that Australia made those gauge mounts and yes NZ the land of the $500 rb20e cefiro/laurel/skyline... shall i go on ?
  5. pretty sure the long black one near the boot latch is central locking, the green relays in my ceffy are the same as the r32, not 100% if codes are the same but the relays run in the same circuit as on the diagram
  6. up
  7. i posted a thread or post which i cant find now in the taxi section with info on the s13 sr20de brake vs non turbo ceffy brakes which were bigger although i dont have turbo brakes on my car so i cant tell how much better they are but r32 gtst brakes are better here's some info: http://www.sr20tuning.com/brakes.html
  8. bare sub frames are the same gtst/gtr/gts4
  9. we rolling or flaring ?
  10. these measurements are from the middle of the bolt hole: r32/s13 width 605mm 1070mm length 665mm r33 width 615mm 1085mm length 655-660mm i couldn't get the lengths exact with the hoops in the frame getting in the way
  11. i bought a r33 gtst cradle for the diff and i've got some parts to off load that doesn't suit my car. r33 upper camber arm - $10 each r33 traction arm - $10 each r33 bare cradle - $50 cradle bushes are great,no cracks. one of the LCA mounts on both side are damaged unsure what happened looks like they have been cut the LCA's bolt up straight as and theres no other damage to the other parts so its still straight as. anyone with a grinder, mig and flat bar metal can repair it r33 hicas - $80 two plugs are damaged, will still plug in Vic-eastside
  12. thank you sir, just what i was after. i dont know r33 arms at all, i thought that it was reinforced by someone else with that extra plate welded there but its all factory as i can tell now.
  13. great thread, he even has the wheels spot on
  14. well soft springs...say king springs will make the car comfortable but handle like shit as you do want some amount of hardness. the usual spring rate is 8 front 6rear for s13 sr/ca but for a r32/a31/s13 with a rb in it 10 front 6 rear
  15. few on here --> ae86drivingclub.com.au
  16. too hard to find man.... just get ABS s13 sr20det calipers and disk's used... also s13 brakes a slightly smaller so the non ABS one stated above could have been a s13
  17. should have been specific, the underside of the factory arms
  18. now i'm just trying to confirm something i'm after pics of the under side of the rear uppper camber control arm,the 's' bend type arm. thanks
  19. also no can do bout the turbo swap on mine as its my daily, id only swap it if the current one was dead or if i upgrade/ get a newer + melbs summer rain + no car shed
  20. moves to TAS
  21. lol. nic didnt even mention de+t yes we were thinking thats its a det+t, how does one prove that if all turbo liquid cooling holes are drilled/tapped correctly?
  22. getting some good practice in stewy? also this is win! http://www.inertia-ms.com/blog/?p=207
  23. maybe thats just a tired engine with a sensor or 2 not working... unless you wanna bolt up the 16v9 to the current engine and test it out
  24. was looking at my rpms/boost clearly yesterday and if i full throttle it hits 10psi at 4k(r33 s2 turbo) you stated 16v9 is r32, i've got a spare 1993 rb20 turbo thats "16v" and no other markings on it so 16v 10-9 might be a variant between the 1988-1992 a31/c33 ref pic( not mine just a pic off sau)
  25. mine doesn't beep when i go over 105 dont know why but its an annoying thing out of the way , my light and key beeper still works
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