Pal

had enough, gunna save for injectors and ecu and let it do want it wants to do

yeah, i noticed that the diaphragm arm needs to be forced a little to get in onto the waste gate. let me know how you went.

yes, opened it up with wategate disconnected when fitted dump pipe

done that, had it on the dyno and eyeballed made sure it was fully opening. also checked when dump pipe went on

checked all lines between actuator and wastegate and all in very good condition. is too much flow through the exhaust a problem. only have a cat, resonator and cannon.

highflow, still all there. what problems did u have Bubba. i'll have a talk to my tuner about base timing and see what he says.

have a xforce high flow cat. will have a look at the pipes. you are talking about the pipes for the bleed valve and watsegate?

my tuner has detuned it due to the boost creep, its only on 230 rwhp at the moment. will try the stock solenoid.

i had no problems with the stock turbo, i had it set to 12 and would drop back to 10, i am using a GFB bleed valve, i removed the bleed valve and run a straight through hose so it would go to wastegate pressure of 7 psi but is still going to 17 only a bit slower. not sure if a EBC will make a difference. using standard tapping point

hey guys, picked up a highflow for a decent price so chucked it on around november last year. had it freshened up with new seals and new compressor wheel as old one was eroded . took it for a tune and set the bleed valve to 12 psi and it was boost creeping to 17 psi at 7000 rpm. was running a 2 1/2 inch split pulse dump pipe into a nismo 3" font pipe, had read on forum that the split pulse dumps caused boost creep so modded my split dump and changed it to a bell mouth. chucked it back on dyno and still going to 17psi. pulled off turbo again and machined out waste gate from 24mm to 28mm (exhaust wheel hole size off 52mm) this was a 36% increase in surface area. putt the turbo back on and still went to 17 psi. i have finally taken off the 2 1/2 " dump and front and fitted a 3" front dump pipe hoping to drop the pressure in the exhaust and get better flow but alas it is still doing it. cant think of anything else that can cause the problem. got in contact with the guy who had it before and he had it running on 14psi ok. any ideas anyone!!!!!!!! modds as follows safc2 stock injectors nismo fuel reg walbro fuel pump full 3" exhaust FMIC thanks Eric

well, in melbourne. going to lunar park today and casino tomorrow, is very cold here though. fun fun Eric

i am going over to melbourne and then sydney as of tomorrow so i will get in early and hope everyone has a great christmas and new year, everyone drive safe, eat heaps, drink in moderation and will see everyone next year.

my old one was running on 12 psi for 3 years, no problems, and when i took it of it was still fine, no excessive wear or shaft play.

about 10 minutes if you know what you r doin, 20 if you dont. just a few pipes, easy.

go for somthing that has 3" minimum on it if you have a aftermarket turbo. if stock then 2 !/2 is ok (run mine for 3 years without a problem on 12 psi). unless you gunna upgrade your turbo!

looks the same as i had before i modded it, 2 1/2 " inlet by the looks. doesn't say 3" anywere. going full 3" bell mouth dump/ front now. just got a mild steel one for 60 bux + postage on ebay

have commented, all one sided and the kids been put at blame. anyone know the full story yet?

with that much metal running around in your engine, i think that motor was stuffed no matter what. loss of power would have possibly been from the engine being made richer = safer. rebuild and be happy.

hey guys, had a rear ended to a couple of months ago, my panel beater just pushed it out with a porta power and block of wood until all the panels line up. there is also a reinforcement bar between the bumper and beaver panel that my need straightening.

I had two XA coupes in my younger days, one the same color as this. beautiful cars. will be keeping a eye out for sure. any idea what areas he may be in?

did you sign anything, a piece of paper saying if anything happens on the dyno, its not the mechanics fault? we have to do this on this side of our lovely country. if it goes bang then to bad

are you screwing it the right way. on the gfb you got to screw it out to increase pressure

computer for sure, and if stock turbo, 12 psi max if you want it to last (even with computer)

so can you bolt a vg30 exhaust housing onto a standard rb25 turbo. does it have a bigger waste gate hole? have a high flowed rb25 bb turbo and getting boost creep (set at 12 psi and going to 17 at 7000rpm) may be able to control boost better with this exhaust housing. have opened up waste gate hole on the turbo from 24mm to 28mm, but still not big enough!

Ok, a interceptor will work perfectly in any model skyline from R32,33,34. Yes it does clamp the boost cut signals and yes it will control the fuel and timing by intercepting the original signals going to the factory ecu. It will even control the factory boost control solenoid. In the case of a supra for example you can even use the interceptor to clamp the signal to the speed cut and do away with the extra cost of purchasing a speed cut defender. There is not one company in WA that has been satisfied with the Emanage unit which is actually just a piggy back unit the same as a Haltech. 90% of all problems relate to the installer and the tuner. I 'm surprised that Haltech would ever say that they cant support an interceptor on a R33. just check there web site and you will see a base map for an interceptor there to suit R33. A PowerFC is a good cheaper alternative to a stand alone ecu but I believe that the interceptor will suit the application of minor mods a lot better.