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what was too much boost?????

howdy guys, was at the drags on wednesday, stretching the legs on the skyline and seeing what the new mods did for my 1/4 mile time and am now having a problem of the back wheels bouncing badly on the start line when i dump the clutch, has anyone had the same problems and what can i do to rectify it as it is robbing me of a good start. the only way i got around it that night was taking off off boost then putting the boot in once i got rolling.

got a welder. weld a bolt onto it and get it of that way. maybe, maybe not. only a idea

have a talk to jamie at xspeed (in w.a.) or see a performance workshop in your area, i have just gone the other way as it is cheaper to go faster in a manual, but if you want to spend the coin, a auto would be better at bigger power levels.

if you are not confident, get someone to tune it. Ive had Cypher fit and tune and also had xspeed and hyperdrive do a tune as well after more mods, they all did a exellent job. i think i paid somthing like 200 or 250 for fitting and dyno tune.

are there any insurance agencys that will let u use aftermarket computers or piggybacks as well as the normal mods with reasonable prices?

as far as i know with the mods i have done, cause i have gone over 30% in extras of what my car is worth i could not add anymore mods to my insurance, they told me they would fix the car if i crashed it but would only replace it with stock parts .

i have similar to these but i dont have the badge on my centre mat. i have a standard r33 2 door '94' model

im thinking of going down on the 5th of next month to test the out my manual conversion, if anyone is interested, the last sau drag night had a good turn out, but its been a while now.

Thanks mate

i think 256rwhp with a auto diff being lower ratios, ill go close but only a run will tell

Well, went over pits on friday and all went well. cost 35 bux and seal off approval from Mr mechanic. Insurance was interesting with having to put the conversion as a extra on my insurance. so to get conversion covered i had to drop off the exhaust and fmic from the insurance otherwise i had to try get my car valued at $24000 and that was'nt going to happen. Kept it at $20000 and didnt have to get a valuation done and insurance only went up $80 a year(was insured at $17000 with wheels / rims and exhaust covered). still all done now (legally)

that would be another way to go,

try this mob. i got my complete conversion kit from them for a r33 http://www.importspares.com.au/

I have just finished my conversion on my r33, from what i hear u will probley have to fit the r33 manual yoke(gearbox end) onto the r34 manual tailshaft. Also (couple of other suprises i got) if you have abs, just check if the manual tailshafts are different lengths because the r33 ones are different. also check to see if the instrument cluster is compatable. on r33 the auto has a two pulse setup and the manual has four so if u try use the auto cluster it runs at half speed on the speedo eg doing 100 km/h shows 50km/h on speedo. if you have anymore questions just pm me and i may be able to help you

94 r33 rb25det just completed manual conversion stock auto computer stock turbo at 12psi on gbf bleed valve split dump, stock front pipe, hi flow cat with 3"cat back fmic safc2 256rwhp or 190rwkw

i hav'nt done it yet, i was going to ask if it is legal TO DO it. Sorry for the wrong impression . you guys would know so i wont bother. Wish me luck as it goes over the pits on friday. Hopefully with no problems

will be going over the pits soon to get the car licence changed to a manual, i was going to ask if i can legaly cut this section out. will let u know

i just done a auto conversion on my r33 and cost 4500, gone are the days of the 3000 conversion. i am selling my auto to luket01 at the moment for a spare. i can get hold of him and see if he still wants it? the box is at xspeed and will require picking up from there if he does'nt want it . sorry probly to far away, in w.a

i dont think i could have got that out of mine, it just wouldnt respond to anything else. im happy with what i got now, i drive it every day and if i go for anymore power it becomes less reliable and fuel costs start going up, now it time to spend on maintenance.

ok, i have stock turbo runnin 12psi,fmic,3"cat back stock front pipe and split pulse dumpa,k&n panel filter, safc2 had the safc tuned bafore fmic went on at 215rwhp, at a guess went to 220-225rwhp without a retune of safc. with gearbox and retune of safc went to 255.8. as for the price of gearbox parts come to $3000(america sucking up parts and hard to get, prices for conversion kits go through the roof)also my tailshaft cost 300 cause i have abs and they are hard to get(so ive been told). to fit 1550(includes new extreme clutch)some machining, bits and pieces and about 10hrs labour standard 150 for dynotune for safc2 thats about it

well conversion done finally, feels great. just got to get my speedo sorted out on friday and go over the pits and thats it . cost alot more than expected (4700 with safc tune) but i think its worth it. got alot more power out of it, went from 215rwhp to 255.8rwhp. now where is that drag strip??!!

dont know how true it is but i heard that there is a special grease that needs to be put on the shim. the noise comes from between the shim and pad, not the pad and rotor. could be the problem

he,he,he no wastegate rod = no motor

i was lookin at chrome wheels until i was told they peel at the bead after a year and leak, so i went machined aluminium, nice and shiny but no peel