Pal

we have over 150 members in perth. imagine if they all turned up on one event.

happy bday _8oo5ted_

more like 7000hp

mine had been slipping after only 6 months, ended up having to cut about 5mm of the pin between the slave and fork as it wasnt releasing the clutch fully. ok now

oil every 5 thou and filter every 10

whats the legalitys of that bonnet with the rearward facing vents. would love on of those but i thought they were illegal

new mob started out south of river too, in tune performance, i had a bit of a talk to him and seems to know what he is talking about. told me he had something to do with the engine in the fastest GTR over east! may be worth a looky. anyone else heard of them. situated between xspeed and cypher. has his own dyno too.

thanks steve, i may just hold on to it and get some money for a dyno then put it in.

go for it ,i got what i needed

thanks frost

do i need to re dyno tune the safc after putting in my new walbro fuel pump cheers for any help Eric

thanks guys, knew someone out there knows what they were.

howdy all. I was just under my dash adjusting my clutch when i noticed a couple of switches attached to the tops of the peddles. one on the accelerator and one on the clutch. since i have had a manual conversion done, the one on the clutch is not connected but there is a plug next to it that will fit it. does anyone know what they are for??

had the conversion for a little while now. have had no problems as such. need to get the clutch ajusted as operating at top of peddle and needs to be moved down (getting done next week). miss the auto sometimes but i wouldnt go back. as i said a couple of posts back, the engine revs out a bit quicker than i would like, but this could be a good thing. the speedo is very slightly out (when doing 60 on the speedo im actually doing 58), this will multiply when going faster obviously). also, i would recommend getting it licenced as a manual, cost about 35 bux to go over the pits. they only look at the conversion but will need to write down size of your wheels so put stockies on if they are over 7" wide. hope this helps

done mine not long ago but had to make up some more spacers to go between the top of the gearbox and under the plate as it was compressing the large nylon bush where the ball sits in and caused the shifter to get very tight and wouldnt spring back to the centre. I also cut my stock shifter below the rubber mounting and in the same place on my short shifter annd tig welded the stub of the short shifter onto the rubber mounted section (top half). this has eliminated the noisyness of the short shifter. still feels sharp and short but feels alot smoother.

would gas be able to keep your air cool enough so it does'nt ping ??

ive had a look under the dash and i have some freeplay on the pin in the master cylinder. looks like the slave cylinder piston has run out of travel and the fork still could go another couple of cm. the hydraulic fluid will not take up the extra slack due to the clutch pushing the slave piston close and therefore pushing the hydraulic fluid out of the cylinder.only if the pin is to short it would maybe do this, but mine looks to long thanks for the info guys

it has only slipped a couple of times and i have been taking it easy until i sort the problem out. i dont think adjusting the peddle will help so i think i will have to shorten the pin attached to slave cylinder. Wrxhoon, tried to look for the pic's you put up but couldnt find them . im guessing its a matter of pulling of the slave cylinder and trimming of a bit of the pin. will let you know how i went.

i'm having a problem with my clutch slipping under high load. I think the problem is that I only have to push my clutch in about 20 mm to disengage it , so the clutch is always slightly unloaded. I was wondering if you can adjust the clutch so the it disengages futher down the stroke of the peddle. i give the fork a bit of a wiggle to see if it has any movement but it seems to have pressure on it. I have a extreme 9 puck clutch installed whch is supposed to be rated to 450hp and i only have 260hp. any help appreciated

abs tailshaft is different length. i had to get a tailshaft out of a abs manual.

if you wanna improve your fuel economy a safc2 is the was to go, i went from 180rwhp and 380ks to a tank to 215rwhp and 420 to 450k's / 50l. and that was with increasing boost from stock to 10psi.

centres the same, housing different

got to the drivetrains forum, plenty info there

read this http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=127553

i done a manual conversion at the begining of the year, you will need clutch/brake peddles master and slave clutch clyinders clutch plus spigot and flywheel tailshaft gearbox shifter manual instrument cluster manual spinny thingy at end of speedo cable to go into manual gearbox centre consol where gear stick comes out of inner and outer gearstick boots. got the safc2 tuned to the manual started with 215rwhp, went to 256rwhp with gearbox and fmic only. thinkn about changing the diff soon too as speedo is a little bit out and 1st revs out a little to quick i think thats about all cost me just over $4700 to get a workshop to do the work. not a cheap project anymore due to lack of part in australia. hope this helps