Simon-S14

yeah i did, two of them. Cheers for the comments guys!

i mentioned several times that i was never very happy with the responce on an rb20, maybe try reading harder. Power was good tho. now that i have a good turbo... its easy to compare it to the bad ones ')

i might be intereste, talk on msn

tip for the day: i know its not easy but try and get the right line which enables you to put your front left wheel on the ripple strip, then ride it all the way around, this is the fastest line and also, due to the front lifting up, it puts more grip on the rear tyres, hence being faster

a 2871R would be good, or a 3071R similar to what i have, but that would prob be a little on the laggy side also. Even a "discopotato" In T3 would be great on an RB20. awesome spool and decent power.

mate you get what you pay for.... in the case of china/korea/asian turbos... you will get a cjheap turbo that makes som power, but doesnt spool as early, or make as muich power as a well made "name" brand turbo... its not to say the cheaper option is totally shit... but there are better options out there for a few bucks more. check out the garret range, or even second hand HSK turbos... a 2350 would be perfect for what you want.. it will make 230 rwkw and have awesome response for the street.

most set ups do this anwyay, unless you have a decent EBC. but the vast majority of stock turbo equiped cars once fitted with exhausts, fmic and the basics, will spike in the midrange, then settle back a few psi. dont be a moron, and stand by your 12 psi kills turbo's BS, unless you have significant proof other then "other people have run 12 psi and their turbos have died" this doesnt take in account of how many kms the turbo has done, the service history, etc.

do nothing more and dont drive or start the car. insist that the dealership have the car picked up via flat bed tow, and fix their bollocks up at THEIR cost! thats some seriously dodgy shit, even if it was a part failure and not a workmanship issue, the workshop still has to stand by the issue and warrenty it. you'll be lucky if there is no spun bearings....

personally i reckon tis similar to the KKR 430, i had one of these on my cefiro (rb20) and it was pretty laggy, and only made 200 rwkw... quite disappointing i thought.

what cams joel? personally i reckon go the 25, still revs fine, but makes awesome torque

no if these turbos had steel rear wheels they would run at 15-16 psi effectilvly all day every day, with the power gain to go with it, They are not as weak as people make them out to be, And as i said before, X amount of boost does not mean they will fall apart! its over all shaft speed that kills the ceramic wheel

yeah but not that well

oh god... better not boost it to over 1 psi... might risk killing it! seriously people. grow a pair! 10 psi is dick all, 12 psi is fine, and even 13 psi is doable. Boost doesnt kill turbo's, shaft speed does. and most stock turbos that are boosted ive seen spike to 14 psi in the midrange then die back down to 11-12 psi at 7000 rpm. the shaft speed of 14 psi at 3500 rpm is much less then that of 14 psi at 7500 rpm....

Come on people... grow a pair and come and support the drivers who are braving the 39 degree heat in their hot cars + suits + hot sun that is summer drift at mallala (stupid heat wave....) its this sat, and its a twilight event, so even if you rock uop at 5 when it starts to cool down a bit, it goes til 9pm, for the brave the action starts from midday. Quite a few interstaters, new local cars, and new drivers will be at the event, malking it a little more exiting to watch. If you're coming and planning on watching, the heat is bareable providing you prepare for it, lots of sunscreen, bring a mini pool to sit in, a gazebo, an eskey full of cold drinks (no booze... i know it sucks but thats the rules) and your laughing... you can even brinng a wet and wild slide, and whatever like some have in the past lol!

lol, in the Mt Barker Courier regarding the upcoming drift event this sat, decent article too!

its too low atm and wants to stall all the time, so ive got to raise it up, prob by adjusting the screw at the throttle body.

Specs on the cam is in my first post of this thread mate

another thing to take in account of is that stock cams are always going to be sedate things, with emissions, idle quality and low down drive ability to take care of, they are never going to be mass power producers.

yeah mate, GCG supplied the turbo, its a cropped t3 version with a GCG cast copy of the op6 housing and its a .71 A/R bolts up to RB flanges etc. seems to work really really well!

i forgot to reply to this. We tried Advancing the exhaust gear also, according to what revs210 said above thought we would give it a go, and it lost a lot of power everywhere, so we then set to zero, and it was the same as the stock gear (obviously) so knew we were heading in the right track, then retarded the exhaust cam by a few degrees, made power, then settled on 1 degree and it gained a bit more, then once we started advancing the intake cam thats where bigger gains started happening. We really ran out of time, so i reckon theres more in it by retarding the exhaust cam some more, its just that it takes 10-15 mins each time to get to the exhaust cam gear, as opposed to 5 mins for the intake.

i still cant get over how fast it is now... if i had shit tyres on the back... the thing would be downright dangerous. even with really good tyres on it atm, at 4500 rpm in 4th it starts to squirm at the rear lol. going to be fun drifting it now

hey guys, i'll post up a graph from a run when i first had the 3071R fitted, we ran 20 psi through it and it made 283 rwkw, but you can see how slow it is to build boost and how little midrange there is. Scroll up ive posted it in with the other dyno graph. BTW the dyno last night was done in a 39 degree dyno room... due to our crappy heat wave adelaide is having atm... JoeyJJJJ: 3L bottom end still being built on the side, if the 25 pops i'll chuck the 3L in... but not a moment sooner haha. Just to clarify, the turbo is the cropped version, rb25 is a 100K km stock motor which has had plenty of thrashing from me with it, perfect health so far, stock intake manifold stock exhaust manifold also. Running a RB20 ecu remapped by what i can only call a nissan ecu GURU here in Adelaide. Cheers for the comments, the difference is certainly noticeable!

you bet! it spools earlier and just hauls now... then around 4500 rpm it starts pulling even harder. previously i had no wheel spin (due to a very well set up car and sticky tyres) but now its starting to turn the tyres!

Just got back from a late night dyno session, massive thanks to Jeff from the Speed Lab for going out of his way to do it all for me!!! anyway after some stuffing around, debating and theory... and some backwards runs. we finally got some results. intake was set to 5degrees advanced (5 degrees on the cam is 10 on the crank) and the exhaust cam was retarded by 2 degrees. the difference was then huge, made more power everywhere in the revrange but drop a small amount in the peak power. which is just fine by me as thats what i was after, lo and behold... the results! not bad for 600 bucks all up spent on cams + gears and other things. This graph is with stock cams, 20 psi its vrs the stock turbo also.

what are the sumi's worth in a 235/45/17 do you know?