Simon-S14

yeah it is, most engine flush smells a lot like diesel anyway. Some people drain all the oil and pour 5L of diesel in there, but i personally dont think that there is enough lubricating properties in diesel to do this.so just add some diesel, run it for 5-10 mins so its nice and hot then drain it out.

wanna run some engine flush through it? pour 1L of diesel into the sump and run it for 10 min. will do the trick

if the thing cant spin to 8000 it doesnt deserve to be called an RB20 (hybrid or not)

who so low rev limit??

in theory it is... but bloody hell the spacer, the gaskets, and the rear housing are ALL different sizes when comparted to the exhaust manifold and each other.... thats gay!

im not sure either BHDave, but i tired diegrinding the spacer and i was there for ages getting no where, i paid 20 bucks for a machinist shop to mill it out for me after i traced an outline of the real flange size onto it.

on my car, plenty! on cubes car, his is a 30DET making loads of power, and it looks stock as a rock! even under the bonnet, when i saw it the first time i thought it was still an rb20....

he still travels arounds to dyno's you just have to book him in avance, Joel i believe i told you aaaages ago to take it to jeff and no one else a mate of mines car has same mods as you and jeff remapped it and makes 195 rwkw on 13 psi now... not bad for a 20 with 25 turbo.

well no, mine is low mount and makes plenty of power, the only way that you'd tell it was illegal would be when the gate opens through the screamer if i had a bell mouth dump, quiet exhaust then it wouldnt attract any unwanted attention. Cubes car is a testament to this

GTST is M12 X1.25 70mm long if that helps...

those nuts you speak of cause me great stress and headaches at work... they are the most evil things ive seen yet!

hey disco. my cropped turbo works well but its not the same housing as a T28 style cropped turbo. I have the GCG cast copy of what looks to be the OP6 housing and yeah, 283 rwkw on 20 psi seems to be a pretty good result. I run it all the time n 16 psi which is 265 rwkw, Pulls quite hard i think!

the 1.06 rear is what is used on a 4L ford motor... i'd imagine it would be laggier on a 3L

why did you not weld the gate flapper solid while it was off and eliminate it all together??? cause if it leaks you have to take it off again....

i would say that yes the larger housing would change the exhaust note, after all it is flowing a lot more freely, and is a larger chamber compared to before. got lag at all tho?

RB20's post a pic of yours

i explained it a few posts up. if you want a real test of the clutch... turn the TCS off, put it in 3rd, dial up 7000 rpm and drop the clutch and floor it *doesnt take responsibility for burnt ouit clutch and flywheel that will result

replace all the coolant hoses, esp the ones running behind the head and under the manifold, do the intake and exhaust gaskets, and welsh plugs too if your feeling up to it. depending on the health of the motor, thers a lot more stuff you could do, but those are the three things that would pay to do with motor out as its so much easier out the car rather then in

already have a t piece with the sender unit and a temp probe for two gauges... so makes it a bit harder as i dont want 2 sets of T pieces. is there a way of doing it going by the high and low resitance readings from the sender?

stock r32 turbo diff is indeed a vicious LSD you'll be fine

its quite common, and its perfectally fine to do so, LSD oil is just normal gear oil with an LSD additive already added. as i said, if its a vicious diff, it wouldnt matter if u used non lsd oil or not...

Basically i have a oil press gauge, an electric type which has a single wire sender unit, measuring resistance as the pressure increase, is it possible to wire up a super bright LED to come on when there is zero or close to zero oil pressure? I dont always look at the gauge on the track, it would be nice to have a bright light that i can see no mater what and shut it off before major damage happens. Im thinking it cant be too hard, since i just work out the resistance of the sender unit with motor off, and some how make a circuit to match that. anyone want to run through an idea with me? EDIT: stock gauge isnt hooked up and neither is the light, both are dodgy as on the 32, i have an after market gauge which works a treat, just want a fail safe.

it should be alright with the Vicious LSD, however if you have a clutch pack type such as a 1.5 or 2 way, you'd need a LSD type oil, failing that, you can go get an LSD additive to add to your current oil, sould get a small tube of something to squeeze into the diff

put a 3L bottom end in its going to be hard to do much else other then add timing + cam gears, and since your putting a large load on it you have to make sure it isnt going to ping to death.

little OT now guys lol. try and keep it on topic.