Simon-S14

Streeter on NS.COm gets my vote EVERY time... i have bought thousands of dollars worth of parts from him and with NO drama;s!

yup

truth is you dont need a FPR til around 350 rwkw... ive seen a few cars making that power, reliably, with the stock nissan reg!! what you need is bigger injectors, a good pump and a tune Steve: in your case, go get some S15 injectors then tune the PFC and you'll be laughing.

yeah thats it. the stock FPR can be "modded" with a pair of vice grips to raise the base fuel press.. its another common tuning trick that sounds dodgy but works... however with all fuel pressure raising mods.. the ENTIRE map needs to be changed, this includes cold starts, idle, cruise etc to get the best economy as the FPR inscreases the pressure across the whole range... so just tuning the full loadf map will see it awesome up top but rich as hell down low.

yes it does... cause theres no way in hell a stock FPR will do 283 rwkw on stock injectors.. By upping the rail pressure you are forcing more fuel through an injector... however the pump, injectors, lines and o rings are all at greater risk. so im upgrading the injectors and backing the FPR right or or swapping back to stock... and not aiming for more power, just reliability.

heres the FACTS kids... STOCK injectors and on an RB20 will see you at aroiund 220-225 rwkw before your on the very limit, thats with a stock FPR. On an RB25 with a Malpassi FPR jeff and i made 283 rwkw with STOCK injectors.. and still had headroom (not much) this was on 20 psi.. we backed it off to 16 psi and made 265 rwkw, still stock injectors and a very safe mix... this is what ive been running for 3 months now and its nuts!

I'll be out, got brand new rims... and a new secret squirrel rear susp set up change that hopefully will bring the fastest craziest entries you'll ever see into turn one... oh and hayden will be out in the All type crash 32 also... trying to keep up with me

heres a pic of mine with new rims on it

pics go a long way buddy

haha if only it worked that way gary but no... passing does not = a win. When i said mine was breaking traction easier i meant during cornering.. im not on the dim side i do know that a stabiliser bar does bugger all in a straight line. I dont run stupidly stiff spring rates either (5kg rear) and my car isnt some stripped out skyline.. its stilla full weight car. roll is minimal as it is which points to the fact that the current settings must be controlling the roll pretty damn well.. I know it might not be the case for all.. but for me, i found that the stiffer i made my adjustable 24mm rear bar the less grip i had while drifting, i was slowing from point to point also (timed with a stopwatch to verify) if you need someone to test out a 26mm bar i'df be happy to do that at a track day and provide timed differences between my current 24mm adjustable and the 26mm... but otherwise i reckon my set up is pretty spot on.. Ive started playing with the traction rod (3rd arm in the rear end) and have made some mods to the subframe to gain even more midcorner/mid drift grip. despite what you circuit guys think of drifters... we do want grip.. and lots of it.. it means that we can drift a corner a lot quicker then normal

unplug the AFm and start it up... if it idles fine then your AFM is the issue *note, with the AFM unplugged the engine willacctually run and idle very well... but wont rev more thne 2000 ish rpm, where as an AFM that is plugged in but not hooked up to the intake pipe or popped off intercooler hose will run like shit. the ecu limp home mode works with the AFM unplugged.

i used to be the biggest fan of the walbro's... but i would no longer recommend them. had a few failures from genuine units.. its not worth risking an engine over. Spend 30-40 bucks more and buy a bosch pump and be done with it. Dont waste your time with a FPR either, you'll run into rail pressure and injector failure issues over time on a street car ( i run one for now but upgrading my injectors very soon) exhaust cooler RB25 turbo remap 1 bar boost fuel pump = around 200 rwkw, dont worry if its 190 or less... it all depends on the health of the motor and turbo combo. theres some freak combos out there... Ev with the white r31 for example made 183 rwkw with a RB20 turbo on his... and the above supoorting mods. Jeff tuned it

i think the celsior has 2 oxy sensors and 2 cat temp sensors, i could be wrong tho its been a while since i looked under one.

Yeah all type crash are champs... they have skylines coming out their arse atm.... they might as well change their name to Import Crash lol

Hi Gary Personally i think the 26mm rear bar would be far toos tiff for drift, i use your 24mm adjustable and its on softest setting, toll is pretty much all controlled. On stiffest it just breaks traction a lot easier.

heres mine, exact same sizes, i have hand flared guards and fits spot on

my car is faster then yours so suck a fatty yeah fair enough mate, gotta stand by those who help us out

lol he really is... Jeff has been doing remaps longer then Shaun, quite often gets a lot of shauns jobs in that need finishing touches done so they run well... the list goes on. Besides, jeff showed shaun the ropes when it comes to maps..., im not saying shaun is no good. im just saying that there are better ecu remappers out there and i would dare say that jeff is up there. the fact my motors have never popped, ever, on the track or dyno... and cop an absolute hiding... are a testimate to jeff's tuning.

most people in SA use Jeff The Speed Lab to do remaps... and if they dont they should... jeff's work is much better and the end result shows it. Also cheaper

before you all go rushing out to buy an o2 sensor (btw i dont have your otherone steve) you can test it easily to see if it works or not.... if it works no point wasting your cash and replacing it since your going to be 60 bucks down and have the same economy to show for it. grab a multimeter and start the car when its at operating temp... probe each of the 3 wires til you find the signal wire (i think its the middle one, could be wrong) and the signal wire should vary between 0.1 and 0.9 volts continuously at idle. if it just stays on a figure... its stuffed

thanks for the explanation trent, makes a lot of sense now. One more qestion tho, you said you ran the 8cm rears before, and wouldnt recommend the 10cm housings due to the extra lag. Wouldnt the 10cm housing provide that extra agressive powercurve your after? or is it a case of too much lag?

gee you guys run crazy toe on front... i only run 1mm and i like it.. .so do my tyres

i do remember trent saying they did some testing with the wing on cats car and found some decent results

Hey guys Need a running motor thats been pulled out of a 31, if its got bolt ons and auto trans already attached would be handy. We're located in the Adelaide Hills also. dont really care about how many K's on the motor or box, so long they both work, no smoke etc etc. Looking for something ASAP. If you have something fire an email to [email protected] or sms 0409 567 603 Thanks Guys Simon + Jenna

ease up kids Honest question tho trent, How does a responsive package that cat had before with 300 rwkw feel flat and painful to watch? I would of thought that a responsive 300 rwkw would be AWESOME to drive compared to a peakier and laggier say 330 - 350 rwkw. I could be wrong but thats why im asking