Simon-S14

several ways about it, can do what i did and work for an employer for 12 months then apply for the license, or the other way which i havent looked into much is to get the license outright with some theory/testing etc. I know SA is the hardest state in which to get a license so you should be right haha. To tell ya the truth ive had no experience with the Prins gear, but the equipment looks a lot like the zavoli gear that we use. ZAVOLI GEAR Alsy at my work we have done a few LPG turbo diesels my boss has a turbo patrol which we converted and flicking on the gas was like hitting nitros.... a lot of extra power, however stopping it from pinging was the hard part, so we've done a bit of development with a gas metering system so it gets just enough to give gains but stop it from pinging... fun stuff.

so your engine isnt acctually cranking over? but it feels like it wants to crank? if this is the case check the battery?? might be flat turn the motor over by hand wkith a socket and ratchet on the bottom pulley and see how it feels

nah you wont screw anything up, it will either work or it wont. try and get one from the same model motor as yours tho, to make it easier.

Hye trent Im a LPG gas fitter and believe me, a lot of the Gas systems that we do at my work are laptop programmable standalone LPG vapour systems which work very VERy well.. there is still a large proportion of old school falcon and commo set ups tho drop tanks and the like are pretty common these days too, however there is many strict guildlines in which the installation has to abide by. tank has to be so and so mm off the ground, theres "escape" angle, certain mm away from the exhaust system, mounting hardware, etc etc. with a 2004 onwards pajero the rear cargo area has a storage area, this is removed and the floor is cut out of the car, a bracketed tank and new lower floor are fitted pretty much replacing the rear of the car. the result is a tank you cannot see and doesnt take any extra space up. not all cars are like this tho... some are real pricks to get tanks into and keep it legal.

you wont bend the valves turning the crank by hand. if the CAS is f**ked you would have no spark or injector pulse... best way to test is with an LED test light and pull off an injector plug, crankl ti over and if it isnt pulsing (one wire will be 12V supply and the other will be a pulse signal from the ECU) then the CAS isnt working to provide a signal to the ECU

the mark on the crank cam (the dot) lines up with a mark in the alloy case that surrounds the cam, with this mark lined up (has to be dead on) slide the balancer on and the mark on the balancer should line up with the TDC mark on the timing belt cover. if it doesnt then your all on drugs

both marks line up at TDC!

Heres one for ya on the pressure side of the power steering system... how many PSI do you reckon would be coming out of the pump? 100? 200? 500psi? or am i way over the mark?

the balancer needs to come off, on the crank cam there is a dot at the 5pm position, the mark on the T belt needs to line up with this along with the two marks for the cam poisitions. once this is lined up, turn the motor over by hand then tension it up. with the crank cam dot in the 5pm position, the Keyway on the crank will be right at the top and therefore the balancer markings should line up with the right mark on the cover. hope this helps.

you can use a series 1 ecu with series 2 motor, same loom, it will run fine. being auto however make it difficult as you will need an auto only ECU

yeah they do distroy syncro's as for the plastic cup. get a new one from repco, r31 is same

they are awesome clutches! I drove one in a 32 not long ago and it was very VERY driveable. being a full face design you dont get that puck clutch shuddering if you try and take off slowly. The clutch handled whatever abuse you could throw at it! If my exedy fails, i know i'll be getting one of these nismo ones

take it to All Type Crash (or take them a photo ) and get a quote, Allan and Hayden are skyline fanatics down there so they will look after you.

if thats the case, just put new earth wires where the factory earth wires go.. not that hard. If your planning on fitting an earthing kit or adding more earth wires, then i stand by what i said, waste of time.

You just need to see the level of work to believe it. Andrew from AM has been in the business for years, however on the very small scale, he now has a shop which will become full time i believe. Dont get me wrong, marky does great work, but his lackys that work there dont have the same quality levels as marky, plus ET prices leave a lot to be desired

280 is far too extreme, if your going to do that you'd need a lot of head work done to match the cams you get what im getting, the 254 8.9mm lift cams... would be sweet in a 20 9mm is the max lift u can run with the stock lifter spring arrangement

does it have a head? if not then it aint a RB30det then

it will be low if you use an RB30ET bottom end, however if you use an RB30E it willbe fine

the box has the bellhousing not the motor, and the RB bolt pattern is the same all across the board so u can bolt that box up no worries. yeah Jeff remap FTW, i run a RB20 ecu on my 25 and its been awesome... and im thinking bout building a 30/25 soon myself!!

remap FTW

your looking at around 1200 ish, depending on your car, the size you want and the various options it can either work out cheaper or a bit more. still, cheaper and better quality then exhaust tech stuff!

no they are crap because you can suck the foam into your turbo lol i know ive done it.

u can always fill through the shifter hole, just need circlip plyers to take the shifter out.

thanks guys, hope the 20 one is the same amount of teeth as a 25 then so i can use one 20 cam gear and one 25 gear