Simon-S14

we will be able to tell if it has been highflowed or not.... only if you post pics of the turbine and compressore hosuing facing the blades

look at the turbine wheels... ceramic is usually an orangy tan colour.. where as steel wheels look like.. steel

Hey guys I need a pair of GTR cams from either a 32 or a 33 RB26. PM me if you have something! Cheers Simon

why was the oil low? do you have a leak or did did the mechanic who did the service stuff up? low oil + freeway driving is going to pretty much kill the bottom end, sounds like a bearing or two is gone. Speak to the people who work on your car

put a T piece fitting in the oil pressure sender fitting in the block

looks sweet man, i give that RB20 box about 3 months before it blows

you could have spent 90 bucks on an aftermarket oil gauge and know what your real oil pressure is ALL the time

Regarding the tank its possible to get higher rated Excess flow valves fitted to the tank, and still be legal. obviously this needs to be ordered in and fitted by a gas fitter. Then you'll have more flow available.

thats an easy one, jeff has a lot more experience. He has been tuning for years, way before the two shops i mentioned have. Jeff tunes a car the way any good tuner should, ensures that everything is sweet (such as idle, cold start, driveability) before it leaves the shop! Boostworx on the otherhand dont seem to take this time and care to get things right and just tune for max power.

ahh that was your car! nice yeah made awesome power... in a 40 degree dyno room too! `

a cooler has an Inlet and an Outlet... the inlet will always be hotter then the outlet, howevre with a SIMIC there is only so much core before heat satuaratio0n becomes an issue! meaning the core cannot lose anymore heat.

you can run the 25 turbo with the stock ecu no worries, just dont expect the performance to be much better then stock... there will be more lag also. for the BEST gains, remap the ecu and tune to suit. then the car will perform a LOT better and you'll wonder why you didnt do it sooner rather thenw asting time with an ECU reset

The system we use has Fuel only mapping, However what i thought about doing was with a remapped ECu was having duel maps, one for fuel and the other for LPG with revised ignition maps as you suggested. if you cant do this, then yeah thats the only benifit of going LPG only. so that you can tune it 100% to suit. I too am interested in seeing more results of LPG on forced motors. the only things ive been doing are LS1's, BF fords, rollas, camrys etc etc, nothing exciting.

i run the factory banjo with restrictor off the block, as well as the inbuilt garret one, this is what Cubes does also. neither of us have had any dramas (mine has done a few track days now, and cubes has done 70,000 kms or someshit lol)

looks great! im a LPG fitter also and have been thinking about doing it for a while to one of my cars. The vapor injection is the way to go, there is no restriction in the air stream like there is with a typical old school venturi system, the injection system has a standalone ECU which is easily mappable (the stuff we use is made by Zavoili) therefore there is no real benifit to running standalone gas! Thats the good thing about this system as you are able to get the same if not more power on LPG as you would on petrol. No point ditching the petrol side of things as the tordial tank is only 50L which wont give you huge range. You able to take the engine covers off for some more pics mate?

lol cam covers cover the cams... who woulda thought they are the two covers on top of the motor, the drivers side on has the oil filler hole in it, it is usually the exhaust side (passenger) that leaks onto the exhaust manifold, the exhaust manifold bolts to the head. if you want pics, do some googling.

front bar for sale at turbo tune, its white too

the place i go to will ask what the stock rail pressure is so that tey can flow the injectors at that pressure. usually they do two tests, one at stock rail pressure and another at stock +10%

show us the proof then. i have had many many engines over the years (non have blown up... i just have had a lot of cars) out of them only 1 had a BOV (my rb20) i do a lot of competition drift, and as yet have NEVER HAD A TURBO FAILURE from running no bov. I find that no bov makes for a much more responsive set up then having a bov. the maths/physics says it bad, but wheres ther hard proof??

check the coil pack loom for corrosion and bad connection

the easier way, yet more expensive way, is to drain the oil, then fill it up with new oil, then run it up to temp... then drain this again. you could also use engine flush with the new oil that you have put in before the draining. then once its all drained, put your good oil in it and away you go. that way all the old oil sitting in the cooler is going to be flushed out from the previous drain. hell of a lot less messier

i may add that neither tuners are anywhere near as good as jeff when it comes to ECU remapping.

just higher engine rpm is forcing the oil out past the cracked seals on the cam covers... quick wa yo see is if you jhave a look at the exhaust cam cover, and down the side, is it covered in crud and oil oil? if it is you've got a leak.

yeah, same, the shifter sits forward a bit.

i had this prob with my rb20 years ago, it was the gasket on the cam cover on the exhaust side, and on WOT applications the oil would leak past the seal and onto the hot manifold. 5 bucks for another gasket and all was good. not saying thats what your prob is, but it could be something to look at, what kind of smell is it?