Simon-S14

sounds like a happy dyno. No way will a stock ecu make that much power. it is possible the ecu has been chipped in japan tho so could be worth while checking that out also. Basically the minute you raise the boost with stock ecu you hit Rich and Retard which prevents you from making any real power at all. to make 300 rwkw (your going to need stronger internals if you want it to last at this and over) you'll need PFC Bigger injectors Bigger Fuel pump Bigger turbo - 3076R with .83 housing comes to mind z32 afm and a good tune. of course you'll need other support systems like clutch, fmic and turbo back exhaust...

no thats right, there are two different senders

Just installed a couple of gauges to keep tabs on things, ive been using the factory gauges so far but we all know the oil press gauges are quite dicky sometimes! Anyway, once up to operating temp, oil press is at 3-4 bar at 1000 rpm, and at 3000 til redline goes up to 7-8bar.. seems a little high? oil temp also seems to take a while to come up... and sits at 60 degrees just sitting there idling and its 40 degrees outside... i havent driven it yet so im thinking its prob not loaded up enough. theres an oil cooler on it with an oil thermostat.

The Mafia: just wondering whats the dip in the curve at around 110 kph? mine has a similar dip and i was wondering if you knew what the cause was

its the same as redline water wetter really.

so far long range weather forcat says high 20's for temp.. which i can handle!

Any 32 ones left in stock? Ive got a track day on next sunday and i'd like a decent rad in the car to ward off temps... If they are in stock would i receive one before friday of next week (in adelaide)

if the idler is noisy, then its f**ked, this will cause the belt to track off the pulley, Happened to my gf's rb20 when i changed the belt and not the idler.. started tracking off as soon as i started it, so off it all came again had to get a new idler and tensioner.

of course

as for thread, i have no idea, why not take the sender out and try threading in the new one by hand, if it doesnt go, dont force it as the thread pitch may be different. otherwise, i cant see a new one being too expensive, you could grab a 2nd hand one from wreakers... or drill out the hole and retap to suit the new sender?

to me that seems awesome... Head bolt's are usually around 150 bucks alone bearings another 400 ish

if its hesitating when your flooring it, then yeah coil packs could be an issue, otherwise its just good old fashioned skyline richness... either get a power FC or a SAFC and get it tuned by a decent tuner.

if its from a 32, its a silvertop. banjo bolts are special bolts which pass fluid through them, they through an eyelet fitting which has a solid steel line going to it, there are three on the turbo, two water feeds and an oil feed. nothing needs to be modded, the turbo will fit straight up.

i understand your a noob and all, but you aint going to find it without going out and having a look yourself lol. I thought i explained it rather well, and with the pics posted, anyone should be able to figure out which one it is so did you try earthing it out? you might find that the contact on the sensor is dirty and by pulling the terminal on and off and few times it will work.

yeah so its turbo, stop worrying about the HG as this most likely is ok. so you gonna do it yourself?

hold the old panel filter up to the light/sun/whatever if you cant see light coming through it then its way past its service life

did you smell the smoke coming out the exhaust? little bit of oil pooling there, prob a blown seal i reckon!

haha i was going to say the exact same thing

take cooler pipe off the turbo outlet, and also the rubber intake pipe, if there is oil pooling there, its another sure sign that the seals are stuffed. I doubt very much it will be a HG, start it up and smell the smoke out the back, if it smells sweet, then its coolant burning, if it smells like burning oil, its prob turbo

depends a lot on your budget and power goals. quite often its a good opportunity to upgrade, but you need supportining mods as well

its not overly hard to do but for a first timer you'll get caught out a few times and it may take you forever. if you do it yourself tho you will learn a lot, and save some cash. tools that you will need complete socket kit (3/8 drive will do it) spanner kit, with a 15/16mm spanner (the 15/16 is for the back water banjo bolt, its difficult to get to) small 1/4 socket kit is also handy, for undoing the hose clamp on the turbo intake, plus the oil return hose clamp Decent plyars for removing pinch clamps thats really about it. the process is, remove the cooler pipes/ crossover pipe, afm and airfilter, intake pipe off turbo. then move onto the dump pipe, undo all the 13mm bolts holding the dump on, you'll have to get under the car and undo the front pipe at the cat also, remove this pipe and put it aside, unplug the o2 sensor and put that aside too. then undo all the oil and water feed/returns, water will puiss everywhere, best to undo the back on, have a bucket under the car and let it drain for a while. undo the oil return at the block, when you pull the turbo off the manifold it will come off the block fitting. last step is to undo the 4 nuts holding the turbo on, use a 17mm spanner and get em off. Then turbo can come out!

turbocharging it would make it more efficient, therefore with the same fuel usage that your getting atm, you will have more power to show for it. Its not a bad idea at all, as for legalities, most cops wont pull over an RX8 anyway lol, only if your doing something wrong. That said, theres no reason why it couldnt be made regancy approved!

stockies suck for feel tho. best to take your 265's off the rims, put them aside somewhere so you dont wear them out, or better yet take them with you to the track so at the end of the day you can refit them back to the rims and drive home again. basically get some 18's on the cheap 2nd hand from nisskid or someone else who sells tyres. i can almost gaurentee that on your first track day you wont go through much more rubber then this, when you start getting better and linking all the corners then you'll need more tyres.

on the top radiator hose inlet on the intake manifold you'll see two sensors, a large one and a small single pin one with blue/black wire, this smaller one is for the cluster, take the wire off, and shove a wire in the spade terminal then earth it out somewhere. Turn the igniton on and the temp gauge should shoot way past the Hot mark... if so, the cluster works fine and the sender in the rad pipe is buggered. If not then the gauge has issues. btw, dont leave the igniton on for too long with the sender wire earthed out.

will bolt on, much like all the other rb25 turbos... it will, however be more laggy due to the larger rear housing (OP6 size) expect to pay 300-500 for one