Simon-S14

+1 for Jeff, number is in my sig he'll help you out no worries

hissing sound could be a boost leak, check bov, and all cooler pipes + hoses for holes along with clamps

yes, yes and yes lol

what about bending the black return hose so the angle of it lines up with the new BOV. you'd have to take it off and put a steel bar inside the pipe and then try and bend it

not a good pic as you cant see the rod, however the HKS ones are adjustable from mem, So you should be able to adjust the preload up a lot. For example adjust it so that the target boost is 1 - 1.1 bar and then let the EBC do the rest.

nothing yet but i have a controller i'll put on soon

isnt it an adjustable acuator? wind some more preload on it so the EBC isnt working so hard and it should hold boost more stable

Hoping someone can help me out with this one. in my 32 i have a walbro which stopped supplying enough fuel for 240 rwkw, so a bosch motorsport pump was added inline (externally). Now i did the wiring mod to the walbro quite a while ago, ran a wire from the battery with a fuse to the back of the car, added a relay which was triggered by the original fuel pump wiring, and no worries. Now the new bosch pump gets its power from this wiring also. the prob that i have is that at idle the wire from the battery reads 12.5 ish volts (goes up to 13.5 with a blip of the throttle) where as the output of the relay reads 11.5 volts... so im losing 1 volt through the relay somehow. i changed the relay already and the story is the same. have checked earth wires, using ohms meter and theres bugger all if nil resitance... any suggestions?

No sorry, Jeff (The Speed Lab) does all my tuning, so you'd have to call him up and ask for a copy of the map, either way he'd be able to help you out. Number is in my sig

what was the manifold to turbo gasket like? I had same probs as you with stock turbo and over time it got less and less kick. I upgraded to a garret and when i took the stocker off i found that the gasket was blown out. Other issues could be timing, cooler pipe leaks, dirty air filter, plugs/misfire issue etc etc lits goes on

yes still R32 ecu, no probs with that at all. still got knock control, perfect idle and cruise, cant complain!

Preload was backed off because on the dyno with the EBC off, and doing initial runs, the turbo was boosting very early past the desired target range of 1 bar, we pulled the acuator arm off the flapper and left that wide open and it still boosted up to 17 psi at 6000 rpm, took a while to get there tho. so yes, the preload is needed, however we couldnt run any due to the fact it was going to boost even more then 20 psi and i did not want that.

as you can see theres a slight gain in overall size, there is a prob with the flap disk catching on the hole due to it wobbling around in its wleded rod this was like this before, i cant really get a good pic of it catching but a couple of times oive driven it and it goes hard straight away, and another few times it takes ages to wind up.. so the thing isnt always shutting 100% as it should. I reckon we'll tig the flap in the one spot on the hinge thing to hold it at the right angle so the disk never catches on anything... Before After

i dont think i made it clear in my first post, but the adjustable acuator is backed RIIIIIGHT off so there is NO preload on the gate at all... with the preload it was spiking to above 20psi on the dyno so we had no choice but to back it off... so yes, it feels laggy. Ive taken housing off and started to fix things up, i want to cure the overboost first then i'll crank the preload back up to regain that midrange.

just took rear housing off the turbo and started die grinding the port larger, the flap also hits the dump flange in a tiny spot stopping it from opening right up. so going to fix all this and hope for the best

the stock turbos have ball bearings, Bi comp wheels... and no we're not all wrong, if it were a high flow (even with stock housings) the housings would be machined out with larger comp and turbine wheels fitted. so yeah, find another mechanic

indeed it is, thats a stocker, no evidence of high flowing at all find another mechanic

3071R hands down. see my thread for results

yeah i know, the acuator is backed RIGHT off, as in its bearly holding the flap closed atm (no preload) as with preload it ramps up and spikes to over 20psi.. so this is the only way we can keep it safe atm. once the overboost issue is fixed, prweload added, the thing is going to ramp up shitloads quicker.. however as it is, it drives well, and doesnt break traction at all lol

Got my 3071R on my 25 and tuned up yesterday, it makes insane power! However the first thing we encountered was the fact it overboosts like hell. cant run less then 20 psi. Ive got a split dump which has had a lot of work done to the gate area to make it as large as possible and flow well. and the wastegate on the GCG .71 rear housing (its a copy of the OP6 rear housing) has quite a large flap in it anyway. Not sure where to start looking... Prob is ive gotta get it running less boost for the drift comp on at calder next weekend, Its making 283 rwkw on 20 psi on stock internals, oh and stock injectors its got a rising rate fuel press reg on it and even at that power there was still head room for more fuel... the AFR's are at 11.5. suggestions? Edit: while driving it on the street in 2nd and 3rd I see 1.2 bar on my greddy gauge, which equates to around 17psi.... dyno run was done in 4th gear and it seems to boost up a lot higher at full load in 4th

hmm still not convinced its the dump tho... i mean the split dump i have has had a lot of effort put into the wastegate pipe and the pipe and hole is much larger then the screamer, it comes no where near the flap also so the gas has plenty of room to make an exit. im starting to think that the turbine housing needs to come off and die grind the gate port out more. i need to get that boost down... 20 psi is a fair wack

the turbo wont pass thats for sure, and they will pick the cams too...

my results.... 283 rwkw! been a LONG day and just about every thing that could go wrong, did go wrong... Got there at 10 and i left at 430 lol... poor Jeff had his work cut out for him but the result is an amazing 283 rwkw's with 11.5 AFR's, 20 psi boost (ouchy i know... overboost issues) and the surprise is... still stock injectors!!!!! Using a malpassi rising rate FPR which bumps the rail pressure up a bit. started off making 240 rwkw straight out the box... no tune etc, then we hooked up the fuel flow/pressure tester to set up the malpassi... found that the flow was dropping right off as soon as you load it up...the pressure was there but the flow was dying off. Got a walbro in there atm, which is rated to 500 hp didnt think this would be the prob, but after checking voltages, and changing the fuel filter which was dirty as f**k (looks to be the orig japanese filter) the bullet was bit and a Bosch motorsport was put in, did a few more dyno runs after Jeff changed all the settings and it started going from 250, 260, 270 rwkw after each change... incredible stuff! boost is spiking to 20psi and theres dick all i can do about it atm.. even with the gate flap held open it stil goes to 1 bar ish. I know a lot of people have had overboosting issues with the GT3037r as they have a tiny wastegate flap, however mine has the much larger flapper and a different rear housing (.71AR) so not sure whats going on there, its not the dump pipe as the flap is opening right out so i think the only thing i can do is to bore out the gate port some more. or external gate. i also snapped the wastegate actuator arm.... more dicking around on the dyno, umm few other littler things went wrong lol had cooler pipes pop off every 2nd run... fixing that right now, just got home and waiting for the car to cool down lol. All in all, jeff is tops, turbo tune blokes are awesome, and 25's with 20psi bloody PULL HAAAAAAAAARD!

chances are the susp you had in it was quite a bit lower then stock, you then put standard susp in it and this jacks the car up higher, when this happens all the susp geometry's change, toe, camber and castor go out the window, So you must have been running some extreme figures to kill the tyres that quick!